Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 111 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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That is pretty cheap.... maybe a retractable one for the garage
 



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They will send 2 quarts with the case, included with it. They also use Redline synthetic for it besides the AmSoil.

From what I saw, it was not included, but I could purchase a install kit that came with two quarts of fluid, and breather hose. If it shows up with fluid, I guess I will have several years worth on hand.
 






I got about half of the ball joint replacement job finished today. Still need to finish up the driver side and do the passenger side, but I got the driver side ball joints replaced. I like the MOOG joints with the side zerk fitting. I purchased a ball joint service kit from Harbor Freight that was on sale. It is working great so far. Also replaced the rear brakes and installed some slotted and dimpled rear rotors to match the front. I have new brake pads for the front axle as well. When I drained the diff fluid, it came out looking like new. I should have kept it and reused the fluid since its been on one Truckhaven weekend and a couple of day trips.

If anyone wants a set of rear rotors for a 99 Explorer, let me know. The are like new.
 






I was installing the front wheel hub when I spun the lock washer on the threads. I felt it as soon as I started really cranking on it to torque the outer nut, it felt all wrong. Took about 20 minutes of beating it with a punch to get it to come loose. The tab took out some of the threads and there is no way to clean them up because two rows are missing at the tab slot. The spindles are probably OEM from 1976 and were a little banged up when I got the axle, so I decided to replace both of them. Quick interweb search pulled up Jeff's Bronco Graveyard as having the best deal I could find at $75 each (Spicer). I added the Stage 8 spindle locks (Stage 8 X-LOCK Dana 44,30 Locking Spindle Nut Assembly-Broncograveyard.com) because the pin was bent on the inner nut so I needed to replace them anyway, and I am sick of dealing with the OEM lock nuts. I also added new wheel bearing seals, and knuckle to spindle nuts. (Total = $334 shipped). I thought about just ordering the Stage 8 spindle locks and hoping the lock washer would line up before or after the damaged threads, but the missing threads would always have me wondering when it was going to fail.

I have had the Wild Horses spindle bushings (Extreme Spindle Bushings for use with Dana 30/44 Pair) since I did the SAS, so I ordered another set of them even though the old bushings would probably be alright to install in the new spindles. (Total = $42 shipped). This ball joint job is costing a lot more money and time than planned, but I will have less to worry about next time I am miles from a paved road.

If anyone wants a set of new spindle bearings and seals, they come with the spindles and I will have no use for them.
 






If there Dana 44 spindle bearings , Yes please!

Last time I repacked mine I wasn't really happy with the one side ( original ones since I did my SAS), but it was right before a trip....that never happened:(
 






OK. I will throw them in the RV, and if we ever go anywhere again you can have them.
 






OK. I will throw them in the RV, and if we ever go anywhere again you can have them.

Ouch, Let's do Big Bear, when do you want to come up? Drove JP down to auto parts store, just to drive it. She's ready to go.
 












If it’s not too late for you to return the Stage 8 kit, I would recommend using a different style lock nut, like the one from Giant Motorsports. I have the Stage 8 and hate it. Pain in the butt to install, and I keep bending the teeth on the sheet metal piece that goes on before the circlip. I loathe anything that requires snap ring pliers, and that kit requires using them multiple times. I think next time I need to take everything apart I’ll be replacing it.

Or you can disregard everything I just said and buy mine for a deal! :)
 






Well, crap.

I looked at the lock nut from Giant Motorsports. It uses the stock inner nut and lock washer and is really just a outer nut with a clamp. Still have to deal with the possibility of spinning the washer, like I just did. I have never had a issue with the D44 outer nut coming loose.
 






I had to replace my spindle for the same reason. I'm still running the stock locknuts.
 






I was going to go tent camping up there next week, but now I'm waiting on parts.

I'm open 5th to 7th if you're going to be up there.
 






Maybe...

The parts arrived today. The spindles were coated in oil so I sprayed them down with brake parts cleaner, then painted the portions that will be exposed. I also wiped out the hubs and repainted the outsides. Will work on it when time allows.
New rear shocks came in yesterday, Bilestein 5125's X 4. They are about 3/4" shorter so I can run them straighter to help with body roll. They came with boots already installed. Think the easiest way to remove them is to cut them off. Never liked shock boots.
 






Looking at the Stage 8 kit, I can see why it would be a pain to install, but I like the fact that there is no outer nut that requires 150 pounds of torque. One thing I don't understand is why they machined three snap ring slots into the nut when the inner slot should be all that is needed. I will give them a try. I have pulled the front axle apart maybe 3 times in five years, and as long as I didn't ruin a inner axle seal pulling the shafts, I shouldn't have to get in there for a few years. I also have a pair of long snap ring pliers that will make it easier. I installed the shafts, spindle bushing and spindles this morning. That's all for now.
 






pics!! I want to see this stage 8 kit and what you are going through here......... pics or it isn't real!!
 






Yeah I wondered the same thing about the 3 slots.
 






I'm not going through anything since I haven't even made an attempt at installation. I was wrong about the three snap ring grooves, there are two, so you can start the nut from either side.
Behold
20190623_195912.jpg


20190623_195919.jpg


20190623_195953.jpg


I should have it wrapped up tomorrow after I schedule the next Padres homestand security staffing. Then I will report back.
 






I got both sides finished up today. The Stage 8 bearing nut kit seemed to be very well made and didn't take me any more time than OEM. I had to move the crown nut 3 or 4 times on one side, but it went straight on the other side. Having them means that I have to bring a pair of long nose snap ring pliers along for long distance expedition type trips.

I have basically rebuilt the front axle over the past few months; axle shaft U-joints, ball joints, repacked wheel bearings, new spindles and bushings, new brake pads, new hub seals and fresh diff fluid. Longest job of the day was getting one of the axle shaft end snap rings to seat. 30 minutes of wiggling the lock out and shaft end, and pushing the shaft outward before it finally snapped into place. I'm glad I ordered a new set of the Wild Horses spindle bushings. I tried to knock the bushing out of the damaged spindle and it didn't come out without damaging it. I left the other in the still good, but very old spindle for a spare.
20190624_150120.jpg


The ball joints I pulled out were AutoZone's with a lifetime warranty. I replaced them with Moog's, but did return the old joints for a new set. More spares to figure out where to store, then forget about where I left them.
 



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Today while I was putting the front tires back on, I noticed the pre-load on the driver side bearings was loose. One thing I really had down with the OEM bearing nuts was getting the pre-load set right. I have always set bearing pre-load by feel, and this is a whole new learning curve. Mounty, you were right about the crown nut thingie being a pain. I tried every notch combo, then ended up resetting the pre-load on the nut and the crown nut dropped right into place. I had to tap it slightly to get the snap ring to fully seat. I think once I get used to it, it will not be any more of a pain than the OEM nuts. With the Stage 8 system, there doesn't appear to be any way the nut could ever back off.

Now I am wondering if when the washer spun I put too much pre-load on the bearings and damaged them. They looked great so I reused them. I repacked them by hand like I always do, and didn't notice any slop. I will have to keep an eye on that side for a few local trips to make sure.
 






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