Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I put the Explorer on jack stands and removed the front tires. I dropped the drag link so I could get to the axle side track bar mount. Had to remove the upper track bar mount first to get the lower bushing to wiggle out. It is showing very little wear so I am not sure if it was contributing to the bump I am feeling. Decided to paint the track bar while it was out, and that's as far as I got.

Daughter has her final day at a horse show tomorrow so nothing to be done then. I also need to remove a bunch of stuff out of the RV on Monday so I can take it into a shop to fix the engine AC on Tuesday. The plan is to slowly get everything done by the end of next week. Just removing the front tires hurt my chest a little so I can tell I am not completely healed, need to take it easy.

I have a question: The Explorer has a right side pull when on the highway. It doesn't seem to matter if I am on asphalt or concrete freeway, it is a very steady pull. Not extreme, but it did get more pronounced with the Maxxis Razr tires, possibly just because they are so much larger than the old tires. Its not the tires, because I have moved them all over and its still there. The toe is set at about 1/8". The wheel base is the same on both sides. I was thinking of turning the right side radius arm rod end out a half a turn more than the driver side. I was thinking maybe pushing that right side tire slightly forward would take out some of the pull. Does that make any sense?

 

[Turdle]

Today I put the Explorer on jack stands and removed the front tires. I dropped the drag link so I could get to the axle side track bar mount. Had to remove the upper track bar mount first to get the lower bushing to wiggle out. It is showing very little wear so I am not sure if it was contributing to the bump I am feeling. Decided to paint the track bar while it was out, and that's as far as I got.

Daughter has her final day at a horse show tomorrow so nothing to be done then. I also need to remove a bunch of stuff out of the RV on Monday so I can take it into a shop to fix the engine AC on Tuesday. The plan is to slowly get everything done by the end of next week. Just removing the front tires hurt my chest a little so I can tell I am not completely healed, need to take it easy.

I have a question: The Explorer has a right side pull when on the highway. It doesn't seem to matter if I am on asphalt or concrete freeway, it is a very steady pull. Not extreme, but it did get more pronounced with the Maxxis Razr tires, possibly just because they are so much larger than the old tires. Its not the tires, because I have moved them all over and its still there. The toe is set at about 1/8". The wheel base is the same on both sides. I was thinking of turning the right side radius arm rod end out a half a turn more than the driver side. I was thinking maybe pushing that right side tire slightly forward would take out some of the pull. Does that make any sense?

I suggest checking the caster angles. Sounds like the right side has more angle, might be a sign of wear in bj

 

[BKennedy]

I suggest checking the caster angles. Sounds like the right side has more angle, might be a sign of wear in bj

Did all that, caster is the same and it's a solid axle, ball joints are near new and solid.

 

[BKennedy]

 

[Stic-o]

Try adding a bit more Toe. I think JP is closer to a 1/4" and always drives straight...

 

[BKennedy]

I'll try that, that's easy.

Try adding a bit more Toe. I think JP is closer to a 1/4" and always drives straight...

 

[410Fortune]

1/8” toe in per side or 1/4” toe in total is what I also run on my bii, even with ttb she tracks straight as an arrow.

Excursion (37s), f350 (35s) are also set with 1/4 “ toe in

Have you tried rolling the truck on flat ground in n? Does it roll easily? (No brake drag)

 

[BKennedy]

It rolls easy for 35" tires. I'll try the 1/4" toe in.

I opted to not solvent flush the system. The fluid isn't very old and looked nice and pink while draining. I've also had an in line filter since this pump and Redhead steering box were installed. I pumped the fluid out, then filled it back up with Mercon V, then repeated that twice.

I got the power steering pump and mount out. Then removed the pully and pressure regulator, and finally pulled the pump off the mount. Following @gmanpaint tutorial is making the thinking part easy.
That's all for now...

Got a call from SD Driveline. They said they greased the heck out of the slip yoke and it seems like it should be fine to them. Rebalanced the drive shaft, said the centering ball was worn so they replaced that. I'll pick it up tomorrow.

 

[BKennedy]

I modified the bracket, and mounted the new pump and adaptors. Swapped out the pressure valve. Installed the pump and it clears just fine. The fill opening is a lot easier to access than the OEM unit. I did have to slightly bend the AC line on both ends to get that to stop touching the reservoir.

I was digging around in my shed for something else and found a set of Gates PS hoses. Totally forgot I got them from RockAuto on clearance for a few bucks each. It has Duralast hoses currently. Might as well swap them out and return the Duralast hoses to AZ so I will still have a new set.

Have a doctor's appointment so that's all for today. I think the hardest thing I have left us to press the pully on to the correct depth. That and about 100 zip ties that I cut off that hold hoses in place. I also need to put the steering back together, and install the track bar before I will be bleeding the system.

 

[gmanpaint]

Awesome!

I had to slightly move the AC line as well. The new pulley install work, is the hardest part of the swap. Tedious!! Lol

 

[BKennedy]

The highest anxiety part is bending 28 year old AC lines.

I too threw my old pump into the depths of Hell. Well the trash anyways.

 

[410Fortune]

Man this is the fix!!!! All these years….. waaaaaaah waaaaaaaaaah waaaaaaaaaah everytime you touch the wheel. Finally a real ps pump!
My 7.3 trucks still use the stupid plastic whiner but the engines are so loud you can’t hear it
My neighbor drives a 98 ranger we built, (he is a Chevy guy at heart) we just rebuilt his power steering and replaced his rack and pinion. I told him about this and he is all about it… you can hear the pump on that 98 from a mile away!!! Waaaaaaaaaaaah waaaaaaaaaaah lol nice work!

 

[BKennedy]

I was using a cheap Chinasium pulley puller. The threads were binding and it was giving me trouble the entire time. It was going with the old pump in the trash when I was done. About 1/4" from where the pulley needs to sit, the threads stripped out. I went through my nuts and bolts and came up with this.

A piece of old rod with threads that fit in the pump, and a couple hardened washers. I made sure to use a short wrench so I didn't tweak anything, but it let me press the pulley in the rest of the way.
I checked the depth against the back of the AC pully with a old steel ruler.

Anybody know a good brand name for pullers?

 

[BKennedy]

Belt seems to be lined up. Had a issue with the coil over shock reservoir and hose trying to take the same space as that AC line, but I got it so it all fits. Took a solid hour just to do that so I am once again out of time.

 

[BKennedy]

I got the PS pump finished and bled. It's silent, which will take some getting used to. I got all the lines, filter and wiring all secured with zip-ties. I spent some time figuring if I wanted a different pump with a remote reservoir. With all the mods I have done, there is no where else to put a reservoir without moving something else, so this pump is the best choice for me.

I also got the track bar back in, steering connected and tires back on so the front suspension is all golden. Tires easily turn lock to lock on dry concrete. Now, I am going to adjust the park brake cable because I remember tightening it before I was getting the bump, bump, bump at very slow speeds. I might have over tightened it and that would cause the park brake to bind until overcome by acceleration. Lastly, I am going to reinstall the rear drive shaft, and take some weight off the leaf springs to retorque the U bolts as they have enough miles on them they might have stretched a little.

 

[gmanpaint]

The silent pump is weird. I'm still not used to it. Lol

Looking forward to hearing how your first ride goes with it.

 

[BKennedy]

I forged ahead and got everything I wanted to do done. I will clean up the mess tomorrow. I don't think that's what my doctor meant when he told me to take it easy the next 3-4 months, and now I am paying the price. Hello Ibuprofen...

 

[Onebigbird]

Now, with the above listed, I just got notified that Sarah (daughter) was invited to compete in Arabian Youth Nationals horse show in New Mexico, riding at least one, maybe two national champion horses, next month. So this might be on hold until after that.
She was seen winning a class at a regional show and was approached;
Dad brag pic (read the jacket ).
View attachment 401909

Picked this up yesterday out of a 1999 Explorer.
View attachment 401910

View attachment 401911

As an added bonus: If you look closely at the first picture, under all that dirt and grease is a K&N drop-in filter!
Over the next week or two, I will make this fit where the original battery used to be located. Should not be too difficult, as it all lines up nicely.

Picked this up out of the same donor;
Complete rear brake assembly
View attachment 401912

It looks like this year had the brake line coming from the axle to the frame out of one side as shown with this three-way fitting. I would prefer the line coming from above the pumpkin like on my 1994. I can fix this by getting one more fitting on the side that doesn't have the three way fitting, like in second picture. I was hoping to use the brake lines from the 1999, but would have to cut the line and put in a new fitting at the pumpkin. Maybe I will just shorten the existing lines. To do away with all that ABS crap (have you ever looked on the left side of the engine and seen all that stuff???), it looks like I need to get different fittings anyway.
View attachment 401913

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The rotors are roached, so I am assuming the calipers are as well. I will use them for cores and purchase remanufactured.
I am using this thread as a guide Ford Explorer Disc Brake Installation For 1991 - 1994

I don't know what pictures you thought you posted, however the only pictures I see are of, im speculating , your daughter. Just thought I'd give you a heads up.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I don't know what pictures you thought you posted, however the only pictures I see are of, im speculating , your daughter. Just thought I'd give you a heads up.

putting this in the duped photo thread

 

[BKennedy]

Thats weird because I can see all the pictures I posted.