cage building party

[SuperEx91]

So i just want to get this right. i read that you are gonna use HREW tube and not DOM. I was trying to find DOM for my radius arms and it is rediculously expensive everywhere i look. So if HREW is safe for roll cages, will it be alright for suspension parts and bumpers then also?

 

[Jefe]

adding a plate under the body to strength it, to help prevent tearing of the body when a shock occurs..

But nearly all the force of a roll will be pushing against the body, not pulling away from.

A plate of a different size, from what I've heard, is recommended. Either larger or smaller.

That makes sense.

 

[BKennedy]

: After watching Tom R's rig go over, and then inspecting the cage and finding no buckling, and no deformation of the weld in plates, or the sheet metal it was welded onto, I don't really see a problem with just welding them in. I really don't think you will get a more severe roll than that the way we wheel. I could see doing something like that tie in kit, if I was DannyBoy.

 

[SuperEx91]

you have to think that when you roll and the top of the cage hits the ground that it will be pushing on the side thats in the air and pulling on the side thats on the ground trying to peel it away from the body. I would imagine that if they make cars and use the body to act like a frame and just bolt the subframes to them, they would hold up without any problems. i guess it would be added insurance for those "just-in-case" situations.

 

[BKennedy]

you have to think that when you roll and the top of the cage hits the ground that it will be pushing on the side thats in the air and pulling on the side thats on the ground trying to peel it away from the body.

Its not trying to peel it away from the body, the cage absorbs the shock and stress of a roll over, keeping the roof from squishing the passengers.

 

[FROADER]

These need to be safe enough for highway driving (in case of an accident) speeds as well. Not all of us get to tow to the trails.

 

[Stic-o]

I think at this point we just would like to walk away alive. and a plus would be to drive the rig another day.

Honestly my biggest fear right now is not rolling out off roading...it's the idot who cuts me off on the freeway and sends me into a action that the truck may not recover from on 4 wheels. Sense this is still my DD for now

 

[tdavis]

A plate of a different size, from what I've heard, is recommended. Either larger or smaller.

plus you need radius the corners; square corners will tear the sheet metal apart.

The forces in a roll over are incredible, and they are in all directions.

The #1 reason for the plates is to attach the cage to the body.

The #2 reason is to keep the tube from punching through the body in a crushing blow, ie a 180degree roll onto the roof, therefore trapping you between the cage and the floor pan.

Then you get into the discussion of attaching seats, seat belts - plus the cage to the frame discussions.

HREW for an interior cage is fine for most people - properly triangulated, it will hold up for a single use. The tube itself is protected against most impacts by the body. But then, in a good hard rollover, the vehicle body is probably toast anyway..

DOM is best for impact areas - ie, arm links and such. Even then, there is voodoo science involved in correctly sizing the tube (ie, a 2"/.120 wall DOM tube can be stronger than 1.5"/.250 wall DOM tube).

 

[BKennedy]

I think at this point we just would like to walk away alive. and a plus would be to drive the rig another day.

Honestly my biggest fear right now is not rolling out off roading...it's the idot who cuts me off on the freeway and sends me into a action that the truck may not recover from on 4 wheels. Sense this is still my DD for now

I know the reaction to getting cut off is to swerve, but you have to force yourself to just take the hit, since it should keep you from the dreaded rollover on the freeway. I don't care how well you build a cage, if you roll it on the freeway, it will keep you alive, but the rig will be toast. I am just playing the odds and the odds are if you roll it, it will be in the dirt and at slow speeds.

 

[Stic-o]

I know the reaction to getting cut off is to swerve, but you have to force yourself to just take the hit, since it should keep you from the dreaded rollover on the freeway. I don't care how well you build a cage, if you roll it on the freeway, it will keep you alive, but the rig will be toast. I am just playing the odds and the odds are if you roll it, it will be in the dirt and at slow speeds.

Actually I've done some pretty crazy thing in that thing on the freeway. It's the guy that hits me shooting for his exit from the fast lane that worrys me. or the guys that hits me from the side in a intersection, and tips me over

 

[Burns]

Actually I've done some pretty crazy thing in that thing on the freeway. It's the guy that hits me shooting for his exit from the fast lane that worrys me. or the guys that hits me from the side in a intersection, and tips me over

im worried about someone getting right under one of the rear tires. yeah that would sent it right over.

 

[RockRanger]

but does someone have a plasma cutter, cause those things are a blast to use.

Steves dad and I both have one.

If you need me to bring mine as well Steve let me know. Should I also bring my welder. I can probably bring my bosses 110v flux core wire feed it would make it easier for tacking stuff sence we will be welding them at home later.

Ok, I got a quote on the Metal.


Matt
(70ft x1.50X.120) $1.57 ft.=$109.90
( 5ft x1.25X.120) $1.27 ft.=$6.35
Total $116.25

Sounds good. Did you include Sales tax in these prices? Also what is the paypal fee so I can cover that as well. I dont want this costing you anything. Or should I just add 10% to it and call it good. let me know and I will send it on its way.

But I could see how acut and fit thing would be way easier on the inside anyway

What if we also ordered a 20' long piece of 6" wide 3/16 plate. Then we could all make our base plates out of that however we feel they will fit best.
I need 4 base plates for my truck.

Steve sence you are heading this up maybe make a list of tools that you want us to bring or things that you think would be nice to have that you are unsure if anyone has. There is no point in us having 5 welders there if we can only plug one or two in at a time.

 

[RockRanger]

Also a thing to consider is flapper, grinding, cutting wheels, chop saw blades, and other consumables we might need. Should we just buy them that morning and when then split the cost when we are there?

 

[Stic-o]

Matt 10% should be fine.

I think for the 6"x 3/16" we could just get it that morning, or I'll go get it ahead of time. This may sound weird, but the place I'm getting all the tube from....only has tube I think...no flat stock:scratch:


For the tools... I would say bring all the small stuff you want. I think we should be good on the welder, but I'll check with my dad first. He only has 3 or 4 of them. A bunch of extra grinders and stuff will not hurt.

as far as consumables, I would like everybody just go ahaed and bring some that will fit there tools I would say. I'm sure most will be able to use on each others and what ever is left they could just take home again. Running back and forth to the hardware store takes up a lot of time. Been there done that!

 

[BKennedy]

I'll bring my 110v flux core welder, it lives in the RV anyway.

I have a question about the interior. Should I just strip the entire thing out, including the headliner? Give me a list please...
Also I can't take the carpet out entirely because the shifters for the transmission and transfer case are bolted down on top of it, so what I will do is just remove the seats and push it around as needed. I will just throw the seats back inside for fit testing, since I think I have the only first generation. I would like to get as much interior parts back in after it is caged as possible, just to keep the noise down. The headliner is a must.

 

[Jefe]

I'm planning to just keep the headliner & associated interior panels in place. It will be difficult to weld the cage up like that, but its nearly impossible to get the headliner in afterwards, from what I've heard.
So really, all we need to strip out are the seats and carpet, and the rear cargo panels.

 

[BKennedy]

I'm planning to just keep the headliner & associated interior panels in place. It will be difficult to weld the cage up like that, but its nearly impossible to get the headliner in afterwards, from what I've heard.
So really, all we need to strip out are the seats and carpet, and the rear cargo panels.

How about the front door panels? If we are going around the sides of the dash, the door panels will get in the way. I am for leaving as much stuff as possible, since it will be less work on the back end, but I am afraid of lighting my headliner on fire.:fire:

Oh, Matt, the flux core welders seem to spit a lot more than gas welders, so I don't know if they are a good idea to use inside the rig.
I'm trying to talk my Brother-in-Law into coming up with us because he loves fabricating and is a real good, clean welder.

 

[Stic-o]

I think I may put the seats back in after I take out the carpet. We will need them in to fit everything in right anyway. If not they will be sitting right there anyway. I think we'll find the first gen interior will be almost exsactly the same. My other question is the over head display... Not sure I will be able to keep it? If I can't keep it, I'll have a hole in my headliner, which means I mite as well get rid of the hole thing Of corse this all depends where we run stuff. Also jefe what are we doing with seat belts? Did you plan to tie those in with a tab?, or do that later? I know we have those goofy adjustable ones on our B pillars they may get in the way. I aso have my overhead light where the B Pillar bar may go..

 

[Jefe]

How about the front door panels?

True, but those only take a minute so

but I am afraid of lighting my headliner on fire.:fire:

If you look at one of Tom's pics, they are using a piece of sheetmetal between the cage and the headliner while welding. Plus we'll have a couple of welding blankets to protect anything left in the rig.
For spot welding the flux-core welders will be OK. But I agree that you're not going to want to use flux-core to weld the cage up. You'd never be able to get the flux smell out of the interior, and the splatter wouldn't be good either.
Anybody have their welder setup for MIG besides me? I'll try to fit mine in my truck.

I think I may put the seats back in after I take out the carpet. . . . I aso have my overhead light where the B Pillar bar may go..

Someone needs to have seats, so that works. All of our seats are nearly identical. We'll work around the overhead console and dome light. I do plan to tie in the seatbelts, and you're right that the slides make it more difficult. The slides have a bolt at top and bottom that we should be able to tie into with a little spacer or something. It can be done later, as long as we keep that in mind. I'm not sure there's a reason to tie into the seatbelts though, unless you are also mounting the seat to the cage.

I'm getting stressed over this and its still 2.5 weeks away.

 

[BKennedy]

Okay, finally got around to posting the pics of Tom's rig.
Side and roof damage;

Front windshield area wrapped around cage.

Interior and cage (notice stress / impact points are all undamaged);