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[Mud Bug 94]

9 out of ten times you need to change the angle. i did on mine and their is no vibrations...a buddie of mine didnt on his heep and it will rattle the doors off on the highway....

 

[colindo94]

Well I reasearched it a bit and found a picture that helped me a lot showing that the output shaft on the transfercase and the pinion output should have a parrellell line between the two. Correct me if im wrong, these line are parrellell when the truck is stock, so I should just leave the spring perches at the same angle.

 

[james t]

Wait until you get it bolted under the truck and on the ground to weld it. Then you can tack them in place, pull the Ubolts off and finish them up. If you do it now on a hunch then there is a small chance it will be wrong and you will have to cut them off.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

Well I reasearched it a bit and found a picture that helped me a lot showing that the output shaft on the transfercase and the pinion output should have a parrellell line between the two. Correct me if im wrong, these line are parrellell when the truck is stock, so I should just leave the spring perches at the same angle.

i think ur wrong...

this is wrong....you want the lower orange line to point to the t-case yoke

 

[lifeguard379]

i think that's only if its a double cardian. i could be wrong tho.

 

[colindo94]

Yes you are correct lifeguard. The front is a double cardian driveshaft, hints the seven degree bushings to point the pinion at the output shaft in the transfercase. The rear however is not a double cardian so you want the pinion and tailshaft to be paralell like the picture discribes. I did a bit of research on this. Lifeguard how are you setting up your pinion angle in the rear.

 

[lifeguard379]

with out the aal i just set it as close to stock as i could. there was a vibration, but i just notist today i was missing a bolt on the flange. so i think that's why i had the vibration.

 

[Minivek]

76 F150 is the best one to find. It is high pinion, has thick tubes, disc brakes (not that it matters, junkyard drum to disc swaps are easy) and weld on radius arm wedges. As said, you can either cut the wedges off and go leaves or cut them off and move them in 2-3" on either side and run coils/radius arms without having to move your coil towers out. Also, by going fullwidth and moving the radius arm wedges in you gain extra articulation for free.

I think I get it, but why exactly would you gain more articulation by moving the wedges inward?? thanks

 

[lifeguard379]

i think it has to to with leverage. kinda like it will take less effort for you to lift that tire. or it puts more force on the spring. is that what you where thinking 2?

 

[Minivek]

Yup, right on, I wasn't sure but I drew something up and it's definitely leverage you gain. By moving the wedges inward, the radius arms are moved inward as well, and when the axle is tilted down to one side, this gives you a few more inches of flex or travel, before the radius arm maxes out... dunno if it makes sens but its how I saw it

 

[james t]

Yep, that's the jist of it.

 

[sn0border88]

the axle's travel is limited by the length of the radius arm (among other things)

If you move them inward, the arc they have to travel is less then if they were farther out so its almost like having longer radius arms that have a wider range of movement with the same angle.

 

[colindo94]

Well the taredown is pretty much done and I've already started the rear, but will have to wait because my axles are still getting the gears installed. here are some pics.

 

[colindo94]

And a few more. By the way the 8.8 is for sale

 

[Burns]

You still need pic of the coil bucket mounts and location. I just saw that you ask that in my sas build. Ill get it for you if you need it.

 

[colindo94]

yeah

 

[Burns]

This was my first attempt on the front end.

As you can see it allows the coil to sit straight while keeping the full width axle. I later on made longer brackets that would allow for more lift. The ones in this picture are not big enough. If you want 33s this will work. I will get a pic of the coil buckets tomm to show you what they look like now.

Here are the longer brackets that are on the explorer now.

 

[colindo94]

Thanks burns. How far did you end up moving them down from where they are in that picture

 

[colindo94]

well I have just about everything I need for the SAS except for shocks. I was thinking about using the bilstien 5100 front and rear. What do you think? If these shocks would be a good choice, I need to be schooled on valving. I want a shock that is stiff enough to stay away from crazy swaying on the road without swaybars, but not so stiff that they will limit travel.

 

[jrgaylor]

I use the adjustable Rancho shocks I set them to 7-9 on the street and 3 on the trail.

I ended up ordering the Cage radius arms for the EB since the new frame bracket is going to add about $100 more to the price