-Deathrow Update Log-

[DintDobbs]

Messed with the Vulture and it has a slightly lesser delay than Hazey when shifting into Reverse from Drive or Neutral, but there is still a delay (normal for transmissions from ye olde dayes) and there is a very definite clunk, although it doesn't feel as hard as Hazey's.

Could be due to several factors - the Vulture's transmission has a few dozen thousand less miles on it, the Vulture has super morbidly over-bese tires (still need to weigh those suckers) on it, and the Vulture also has an absolutely ludicrously low axle ratio. But the clunk is there.

 

[DemonMudder]

Messed with the Vulture and it has a slightly lesser delay than Hazey when shifting into Reverse from Drive or Neutral, but there is still a delay (normal for transmissions from ye olde dayes) and there is a very definite clunk, although it doesn't feel as hard as Hazey's.

Could be due to several factors - the Vulture's transmission has a few dozen thousand less miles on it, the Vulture has super morbidly over-bese tires (still need to weigh those suckers) on it, and the Vulture also has an absolutely ludicrously low axle ratio. But the clunk is there.

Interesting, I'll record mine for some reference and add it here in a bit. But again, nice knowing it may be just normal!

 

[CDW6212R]

Old age and high mileage does weird things to automobiles. Most of mine have done well with my fairly good care and maintenance. But the 3-4 I have bought with issues early on tend to all eat lots of oil, had more leaks, and the suspension and transfer cases have done poorly.

My current 98 has about 278k now so other that the weekly quart of oil it eats, most of it has been great. I'm astonished that this one has the trans with apparently no prior work done to it, and it still works okay. The common shift "flare" began last Fall, but I'm used to it and I let off the gas before it gets to that 3rd gear shift at WOT. The shift solenoids are likely worn out, and the slow function causes the slightly delayed shifting.

I plan to retire soon, so maybe I'll finally have plenty of time and no more work vehicle care to do. I plan to buy the supercharger for my project tomorrow. I won't need it for about a year, but I decided if I had one more good investment work out last week, I'd get it. So I might have to post some pictures in my project thread just to show I have collected some things for it.

 

[DemonMudder]

That it does, just not used to Its Behavior compared to the slightly older 4L60E. But oh well, as said as long as it's not hurting anything then fantastic! Just been a long time since I got to sit behind the the Explorer, so I guess I forgot how she drove. Hopefully your transmission work will be easier than mine haha! And at least you'll have time to work on stuff soon, get to quit working to keep working haha!

 

[DannyW]

Messed with the Vulture and it has a slightly lesser delay than Hazey when shifting into Reverse from Drive or Neutral, but there is still a delay (normal for transmissions from ye olde dayes) and there is a very definite clunk, although it doesn't feel as hard as Hazey's.

Could be due to several factors - the Vulture's transmission has a few dozen thousand less miles on it, the Vulture has super morbidly over-bese tires (still need to weigh those suckers) on it, and the Vulture also has an absolutely ludicrously low axle ratio. But the clunk is there.

I think my 35s were about 80 lbs without the wheels. 130ish all in w/lugs.

 

[DemonMudder]

I think my 35s were about 80 lbs without the wheels. 130ish all in w/lugs.

Sitting close to 90lbs with both wheel and tire on my setup, setup on steelies too, right?

 

[DannyW]

Sitting close to 90lbs with both wheel and tire on my setup, setup on steelies too, right?

Raceline Beadlocks. But yes all steel.

 

[DemonMudder]

No real big update this time, just messing with some lighting stuff. Got some aux reverse lights going on soon, swapped out all my rear tail light bulbs for brighter ones since the smoked housing made it hard to see sometimes, especially the amber trying to shine through the red, so now its just red. And swapped my front blinkers for green! Which are good ans bright, but blinking is odd, they like half blink vs a full blink, which in the day is kinda difficult to see, still good at night though. Got a few other things coming and may hopefully get something else done tomorrow!

 

[DintDobbs]

By "half-blink", do you mean they blink faster than they should, or they don't light as much as they should?

In either case, that beast is sure to catch some attention!

I noticed that even the stock tail lamps in the red housings are pretty dim. Unlike modern car tail lamps, some of which are totally blinding.

 

[DemonMudder]

By "half-blink", do you mean they blink faster than they should, or they don't light as much as they should?

In either case, that beast is sure to catch some attention!

I noticed that even the stock tail lamps in the red housings are pretty dim. Unlike modern car tail lamps, some of which are totally blinding.

They just go a bit brighter for a second, instead of going off for a split second to actually flash, they just brighten and dim. Adding a video of it to the end of this. When the DRLs are off, they function like normal, just surprised to see them do that when they're on

Oh for sure! Looks so nice with the green! Cant wait to start throwing some side markers around the fenders and what not eventually, maybe the running boards too...

Yeah I've noticed that too. I also had junk leds in a smoked housing with tail light guards not helping either, plus amber trying to shine through a red lens was kinda meh.. so now having GOOD leds, not cheating out like I did before, and using red for the blinker instead, its so much nicer. Heck, I ain't even thrown on my aux reverse lights yet cause those new leds are surprisingly bright!
Sometimes a project takes some tinkering to be perfect, but dad gum when it finally is haha!!

 

[DemonMudder]

So new update, transfer case motor is out. She's currently stuck between auto and 4high by the feel of things, 4low wont even engage, gonna work on getting it back into auto at least tomorrow and replace the motor later in the week or next week. But currently I have a very unhappily AWD explorer.

 

[DintDobbs]

Identifying the problem is the first step in solving... wait, I say that like three times a day.

 

[DemonMudder]

Identifying the problem is the first step in solving... wait, I say that like three times a day.

Oh I still am messing with it, and I say that about the same amount too lol

 

[DemonMudder]

Well I tried. I got the transfer case to shift back, but the motor is seized up, can't spin that suker for the life of me. Which sucks, cause now I gotta wait for the part to come in. Which in 3 days since I've ordered, still aint even shipped. Fricking heck, what an annoying situation. Tempted to just take the motor off and apart. By the way, whoever at ford designed the wiring for that dang motor, is pure evil; if you've looked at it or messed with it, ya know what I'm talking about..

 

[410Fortune]

I rebuild them on the bench
The motors are pretty simple inside
The “stop” deteriorates and the motor will travel beyond the bounds of the sensor and the controller gets confused and can no longer turn the motor

 

[DemonMudder]

I rebuild them on the bench
The motors are pretty simple inside
The “stop” deteriorates and the motor will travel beyond the bounds of the sensor and the controller gets confused and can no longer turn the motor

You might have to dm me some info on that, cause that part still aint even shipped from what I can tell. And with all the rain, I was really hoping to test the 4wd tomorrow

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, new thing. Replaced the motor, but still nothing, does anyone know if the indicator should be straight on the H in the transfer case, or on the end of the arrow point to the H? I couldn't get it to go the H and stay without bouncing back, which if it did sit on the H looks like would've been more accurate based on the motors position. But I angled the motor on the indicator and then just twisted it to the right spot and bolted it in. Checked all my fuses and they're good, but its still not shifting out of gear, not a single sound from the transfer case in any position. I can switch auto and 4high and the computer registers cause the light comes on and off (4low light still won't come on) but thats all it does, it doesnt actually seem to shift aside from the steering not being restricted like it is in 4high. Only thing I've got left is the abs light, grabbing a scanner for that tomorrow, but I'm not sure thats the cause...any ideas aside from the abs codes?

 

[DemonMudder]

Replaced the motor, but still nothing, does anyone know if the indicator should be straight on the H in the transfer case, or on the end of the arrow point to the H?

So to give a better idea: the way it sits here is where the old motor seems to have locked up, the red is about as far as I can get the indicator to point without bouncing back, the blue is more about where the new motor has it pointing on it. Do I maybe just need to keep twisting it towards the blue, maybe there is a lock in point? Once I got the new motor on it at the red spot and twisted the motor into place, I'm pretty sure it still didn't get to the blue. I'm running on less and less time, so any help is appreciated!

 

[410Fortune]

If the 4 hi light comes in the shift motor is in 4 high that is really the only way the light will illuminate

Try shifting the t case with the motor plugged in, but unbolted from t case. See it move from position to position

The t case in that picture is pointed to low range

The tip of the arrow is going opposite of your red and blue lines

This is a control trac t case so it is auto/4hi and low range. In the pic it’s in low range

You should also disconnect the battery for a few minutes anytime you have issues with the 4wd switch and messing with a new or old shift motor… the ESOF system gets stuck and needs a total reset from time to time

 

[DemonMudder]

If the 4 hi light comes in the shift motor is in 4 high that is really the only way the light will illuminate

Try shifting the t case with the motor plugged in, but unbolted from t case. See it move from position to position

The t case in that picture is pointed to low range

The tip of the arrow is going opposite of your red and blue lines

This is a control trac t case so it is auto/4hi and low range

Smart, I'll have to try taking it off and checking that it moves for sure, right now I'm letting it sit off the battery a while to maybe reset some stuff.

Yes, at the time thats where I had to have it since thats where the old motor locked up. Once I got the new motor in, it finally managed to push it back to pointing at the H, but as said, still the same issue. My steering is fine, my acceleration is funky too (so I can gun it but will be slow and take a good bit longer than normal to even get to 20mph), the 4high light aint on, but there's no sound from the transfer case like it's even trying to shift when I do try