Front end suspension parts

[Theodoremartinez]

98 5.0 awd xlt. What parts would I need for a front end suspension rebuild? I’ve already done the sway bar end links and shock absorbers all around. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wollimann]

A complete rebuild with no compromise or only a repair?
Depends on what you must change and what you like to spend in money/time.

I would not buy such a "cheap complete set", buy good parts seperately.
Upper and lower controlarms with balljoints

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,control+arm,10401

Maybe you need swaybar bushings

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,sway+bar+bushing,7624

and new camber/caster bolts

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,alignment+bolt+/+camber+plate,13516

If you don't need new lower controlarms, they are not rusty and rubber bushings are in good conditions,
then you have to press out the lower ball joints.

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,suspension,ball+joint,10070

What about steering, inner and outer tie rods?

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

Front wheel hubs, no play?

https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,5.0l+v8,1304435,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636

Some information about steering and suspension

Repair and Diagnosis — 1998 Ford Explorer 4WD V8-302 5.0L VIN P EFI Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 1998 Ford Explorer 4WD V8-302 5.0L VIN P EFI.

charm.li

Good luck!

 

[410Fortune]

Lower ball joints
Upper control arms with new ball joints
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Wheel bearing / hub bearings
Brake rotors calipers pads
Cv axles or cv axle seals at the differential
Front driveshaft u joint and possibly cv cup

That would be a semi complete rebuild
Which parts does your truck need?

 

[Theodoremartinez]

Looks like everything is good except my sway bar bushings and my front passenger axel and a differential seal I believe

 

[410Fortune]

What’s wrong with the passenger cv axle shaft? Boot torn and grease flung?

Which seal is leaking?

 

[Theodoremartinez]

What’s wrong with the passenger cv axle shaft? Boot torn and grease flung?

Which seal is leaking?

Yep the boots shredded and the diff housing gasket is leaking

 

[DintDobbs]

I don't have any thing to add to this conversation that hasn't been said already, but +1 to the other fellas - they've already said what needs to be said.

Personally, I support the use of MOOG parts. I use exclusively MOOG ball joints and tie rods. (Yes, I have bent them, but I doubt you'll be jumping your Explorer.)

 

[wollimann]

Yep the boots shredded and the diff housing gasket is leaking

Diff housing cover has no seal, only rtv,
but i think the housing shaft seal is leaking.
So i would recommend to change both sides and use SKF seal rings,
different seals.
Left

More Information for SKF 13757

Right

More Information for SKF 17521

So the cv-axle shafts has to come out, on the passenger side the shaft extension will come out too,
doesn't matter. Hope for the best, that differential bearings and cv axle shafts are not worn out!

While cv axle shafts are out, change the ripped boots.

1998 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 CV Joint Boot | Shop Now at RockAuto

Drivetrain Parts and More for Your 1998 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Maybe time for a differential oil change, not so lucky cause there's no drain plug.
Cover bolts are hard to reach with the differential installed.
Sucking out most of the old oil over the fill plug is possible.

 

[Blandy]

Have a competent alignment shop do an inspection. Have them show you what is wrong with what needs replacement. Should be free to .5 hrs labor. Some jobs are bears and might want to pay for those along with the alignment. Be completely upfront with them. Ball joints are notoriously weak in these. I'm running 255/70-18's and 275/65-18's F & R with RWD and no lift but had to tie back the LH brake cable. I will tweak my torsion bars after I install my NOS factory air shocks. I would replace rubber with polly where possible. Had to replace my end-link bushings twice.
Does anyone know how to eliminate wheel hop when in sand?

 

[wollimann]

Does anyone know how to eliminate wheel hop when in sand?

I would say first thing is to reduce tire pressure, obtaining more contact surface.
Try to drive carefully slow, but not too slow.
With RWD your may have an open differential, a locker would be an option for more traction.
AT tires with a good profile helps, but i think wheel hopping could not be totally eliminated.
A stiff suspension could not absorb the bumps (caused by loosing/regaining traction) very well.

 

[410Fortune]

96-01 5.0 explorers have rear traction bars those will help keep wheel hop under control as well as a good set of shocks and leaf springs that are not 200k miles and worn out