Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread | Page 42 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread

After Camber adjusters, Body bushings, rear sway bar, and brakes are complete, I'll be posting baseline dyno numbers. First things first. Must be safe!


EDIT (11-6-2007)

Let me save you some time by posting the summary to this thread. The thread is filled with a bunch of off topic ramblings. Read on if you want but be warned.

Summary to this thread....

I'm going to attempt to close this thread because the N/A goal is coming to an end. I really lost interest in the N/A goal a few months back, and It just doesn't make sense (from a $/HP perspective) to buy anymore bolt-ons when the force feed options are available for us 4.0 SOHC guys. I would rather save the money to buy a turbo than to keep spending big bucks for little gains. And so, this is what I did, and these are my opinions on how the mod worked out.

The first thing was the intake. I can remember going around in circles trying to figure out which one to buy. The Volant? no, the K&N....wait a minute, the MAC is cheaper? Anyways, I finally decided on the MAC intake because of the cost. All and all, an intake is an intake. You're not going to see a big huge difference between any of them, but I still feel the best out there is the Volant. I believe in a "Closed" intake. In other words; I don't like the idea of sucking hot engine air thru an open filter under the hood. That's just me and the difference between a "Closed" intake and an "Open" is very small. I did, however, see a gain from customizing the MAC intake by closing in the air filter with a trash can....Yes, you heard me right, a freaking trash can that I cut to fit in the engine bay. It worked good and people usually don't notice what it is. They just think it looks cool. Anyways, I also replaced the MAC filter with a Volant filter; cut a 3-1/2" hole thru the fender and placed a Volant filter thru it. No water can get to it, well....not from this area....I then added spectra hoses from the front of the vehicle where the fog lights were for a "Ram air" attempt. I had a couple of aluminum parts machined for a clean install. That was it for the intake.

Next, I believe I ordered the 73MM C&L from hensonperfromance. This housing uses the same electronics but is just a bit bigger than the stock plastic MAF housing. The gain was small, but was worth it. I believe I've found dyno's of a 7 RWHP gain? Not sure, but there is a gain there.

The TB was the next thing. I purchased a 4.6 TB from KBX performance because I heard a guy named James had discovered it to work with the 4.0 SOHC. I later fooled around and half shafted it. Basically, what that does is removes half the rod that the butterfly is attached too. Do a search on "half shafting a TB" or something like that to get more details. I believe this mod really doesn't give big HP; more throttle response than anything but it's worth it.

When I had the TB off, I noticed this big tube right in the way of the airflow. The tube is the EGR valve and the reason it's sticking in there is to evenly vent exhaust gases back in the intake. Do not remove the EGR valve; it actually helps you. What I did was remove the part that's in the way of the air-flow. I have no idea if this helped me, but It felt like it did. The only ill effect I can think of is maybe one side of the engine is getting more EGR flow; however, I haven't seen traces of this on the spark plugs so I believe it's good.

Now for the exhaust....yeah, it's hard to get a 4.0 SOHC to sound good. In fact, I think mine still sounds pretty bad. I started off with the Gibson Cat back and if your looking for a "Slightly louder than stock" exhaust, then this is the one for you. The gain was good and I liked the sound but I wasn't satisfied. I felt there might be just a little more power I could unleash so I tried a higher flow muffler; a magna-flow. I started off by having a custom Y-pipe made. It has 2-1/4" primaries that y's into a 3" single exhaust. The pipes run back a little ways and goes into a 3" magnaflow cat, then into a 2-1/2" magnaflow muffler, and dumps right before the rear axle. The flow is there but the sound.....I hate it.

I also added JBA stainless headers. I have to say that headers are very expensive for the 4.0 SOHC but there is gain, trust me. If your looking for EVERYTHING you can from the engine, add headers to it later on down the road.

Next is under-drive pulleys....This is one of the better mods in my opinion. The under-drive crank pulley works by slowing down the serpentine belt, which in return, slows down all the accessories running off the belt. The result is more power to your back tires. The only problem I had was it slows the alternator down too much. The fix is an overdrive alt pulley and I added one to speed the alt back up. Problem solved. I'm also running a underdrive water pump pulley with no problems what so ever.

Another good mod is a electric fan. I went with the flex-a-lite 180 and haven't had a problem yet. Very good quality pc.

The best mod, in my opinion, is a tuner. I went with a SCT XCAL II that I picked up from hensonperformance. I think this changed my truck the most and I'm very pleased.

I believe this about sums it up. Every pc of info I just typed here is on the net, and most is right here in this forum, but I wanted to compile some of it for reference purposes....

I made a goal at the begining of this thread, but I'm really not interested anymore. It doesn't make a hill of beans to have high dyno numbers, but it is nice. The only dyno I had sucked; I made 189 to the rear wheels. I'm thinking I'm a bit higher than that but I'm not worried about it.


Next project......TURBO!! and I'll probably do a baseline for this. If so, I'll add the baseline dyno here so there will be N/A results.
 



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Again, these are just my own opinions but here's a better description of what I feel now after the tune.


Before...
whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to second)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to third)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to forth)

After....

whooooooooooooo(shift to second)whoooooooooooooo(shift to third)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to forth)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(starting to get nervous so I let off)
 



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Again, these are just my own opinions but here's a better description of what I feel now after the tune.


Before...
whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to second)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to third)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to forth)

After....

whooooooooooooo(shift to second)whoooooooooooooo(shift to third)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(shift to forth)whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo(starting to get nervous so I let off)



sweet. and this is after getn chipped by sct correct? or u going to get it dynoed and tuned?
 






Yeap.
 






Jakee bought the XCalibrator2 by SCT (Superchips Custom Tuning) from Henson Performance. It is not a chip, it is a flash programming tool. There are night and day differences between chips and tuners. Just so you know...
 






Sorry - I didn't make myself clear.

Yes, I bought the SCT Flasher device, which is called an XCalibrator II. The flasher itself, is not where all the "good stuff" comes. It's the tuner that writes the program. The program is then transfered to your vehicle using the XCAL II.

HensonPerformance is who I used and here's why. James (the owner) has the same engine as I do. He know's this engine like the back of his hand. He's already did everything I'm doing and did it along time ago.

Another thing is the way he treats his customers. I needed someone that would look at this project in a helpfull way. Someone that I could talk to and get advice from. Someone to steer me in the right directions. And this is exactly what James has done from me.

Now there's other tuners, and yes there good. However; I feel James is the man when it comes to tuning a 4.0 SOHC
 






I think you guys will feel the same way when you see a vidoe of my truck taking off.
 






I think you guys will feel the same way when you see a vidoe of my truck taking off.

What is your aversion to taking it to the track and to a dyno? Let the facts talk for you not the seat of your britches.
 






What is your aversion to taking it to the track and to a dyno? Let the facts talk for you not the seat of your britches.

I'm trying! In fact, I just had to cancel the dyno I had scheduled for 9:30 this morning cuss I can't get off work.
 






What is your aversion to taking it to the track and to a dyno? Let the facts talk for you not the seat of your britches.

At the last of Jakee's and my conversation he is supposed to be coming to town and is going to be dynoed here.We will be dyno tuning right now I just sent him some "box" tuning but we will perfect it when on the dyno.
 






I am still coming up to see James and I haven't changed that. He is going to fix my DIFF for me along with the FINAL tune. This will be after I get headers and everything is worked out.

I have made plans for dynoing this saturday at 10:00. This will be a "where am I at now" dyno only. James said he can remote tune but I would rather him do the Final tune physically.
 






Reminder: I'm getting dyno'd on saturday. 10:00
 






Reminder: I'm getting dyno'd on saturday. 10:00

How many pulls are you planning?

Do you plan to change computer tunes, eg, stock and your 93 tune?

Will they provide you A/F data through the entiire pull?
 






Still working out the details.
 






Okay, the dyno is a dyno-jet. A wide band will be used and the remote tune is an option (Just talked with the guy running the dyno)

James - I give you a call tonight.
 






Life just happened. I took the truck in for a front end allignment and found out I need to replace the ball joints. The dealership wanted 900 bucks. I told them I'd come get the truck and do it myself. This sucks.
 






Jakee- this is a fairly simple task. You want to do the upper and lower balljoints as well as the tie-rod ends all in one shot at the same time. For the lower ball joints, you're going to need a special tool that looks like a huge clamp which makes like very easy. (no its not a fork tool, this is better) You can get it at harbor freight for $40 or rent it. I would buy the parts needed off ebay because if bought at a local store, everything tends to run in the 300-400$ range (upper ball joints are expensive as you need to buy a new arm and such)

Id go with this kit and just replace it all. Beware that when you replace it all, you will need an alignment so add that to cost as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball...008QQitemZ180083632837QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 












I always forget to say something when I post.

I have a EBICH?(brand) front end camber adjuster kit that I took to the dealer thinking they'd need to install to get the right camber. They say it's not needed. I'm lowered about a 1-1/2. Do you guys agree? Anyone need a camber kit?
 






whenever you lower your truck , u want to install the camber adjusters to be on the safe side. If not, your truck could wear to the inside and eat tires prematuraly
 



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Well guys, I failed again. Wasn't able to come thru with any numbers. I'll go back under my rock now... ;)
 






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