JoshC's SAS #2

[IZwack]

^--- the God of suspension has spoken

All bow

 

[Kirby N.]

Shut up IZ!!! I like how yours turned out!!! You did a way better job than I did!!!

Just cause I am not the God of newsweek!!!

 

[IZwack]

Shut up IZ!!! I like how yours turned out!!! You did a way better job than I did!!!

Just cause I am not the God of newsweek!!!

LOL no I'm giving you credit. Without your suggestions, mine wouldn't be nearly what it came out to be.
I'm just making a point for people to listen to your suggestions

 

[DB_1]

Having your tubing threaded is by far the best and strongest way to go but then again I've never had a problem with the weld in bungs either. I've seen some weld in bungs that are pretty cool that you might consider if you go that route...www.bulltear.com has some with flats machined on them so you can get a wrench on it to lock down those jam nuts.
www.lightracing.com has another take on weld-in bungs by using a pinch bolt instead of jam nuts to hold your joints in place. These are probably the strongest of the weld in bungs since the pinch bolt tightens more surface area on the threads of the joint being used. These are also made of cro-moly and are the most expensive of the bunch.

As for joints the mack daddy of them all are a toss up between www.summitmachine.com with their jimmy joints and www.evolutionmachine.com and their Evolution joint, both of which are rebuildable like the cartridge joints.
Currie also has some one piece forged body johnny joints that are pretty nice, i'm considering these when I rebuild my links.

 

[JoshC]

Well i'd only be using a joint at one end Kirby, the other i'll be using the wedges. I looked at the poly bushings on a couple of sites and saw where some people have been running them, but i didn't think they were as tough. Then again i've never held one in my hand.

What's the difference in a hiem and say a rubicon joint?

 

[rookieshooter]

Josh make sure if you go the tap the DOM tubing route that you get the right size ID tubing. This is a 3/4" heim end. I used 1" tubing but got the smaller ID tubing size that will give you enough meat on the threads to support the heim end. You can tap the larger sizes but just not enough meat on the threads. Some 1" tubing comes in .700 + ID too small. Mine miked .680 after threading.
Hey Josh looked like you had a good hunting season. I'm still guiding hunters untill Dec 31. Off today.

Oops I meant .700 is too large. Also I started the tap in a lathe to true it up then hand tapped it.

 

[Kirby N.]

Well i'd only be using a joint at one end Kirby, the other i'll be using the wedges. I looked at the poly bushings on a couple of sites and saw where some people have been running them, but i didn't think they were as tough. Then again i've never held one in my hand.

What's the difference in a hiem and say a rubicon joint?

I think the cartrige style joints like the RE joints are tougher on daily use basis. Heims are plenty tough and probably stronger, but through daily use I have found that heims wear out. They become sloppy and need replacement. This becomes a real problem on links like trac bars where a little slop can lead to death wobble. My brothers XJ started death wobbling horrifically out of the blue- it was a year old heim with some slop. He has since changed to polys on both sides. At least the RE joints are rebuildable and use a plastic type of deal in the contact area.

I would put a heim on a race buggy, anything I drive on a regular basis I would avoid them. That being said, I have two on my truck on each side of the trac bar because I followed the advice of a local shop owner who build comp rigs. I have already had to replace one and these are the high dollar ones. I will soon build a new trac bar with a superflex/ poly combo.

I have had a wore out currie Johnny joint on a TJ currie arm on my sis' jeep, but I haven't seen a worn out Superflex joint yet. I like the evo joints too. I have heard good things about them, but never seen them. In most cases an evo joint will require some sort of misalignment bushing. I like that the REs don't require any misaligment bushings.

Since you are only using a joint on one side and the other side is a poly type setup I would use a cartridge style joint on the other side. Something with properties like a heim, but I would use something better suited for regular use than a heim.

 

[FROADER]

Heims are also louder. I know that may not matter for a trail rig, but just thought I'd mention it since I'm bored.

 

[Kirby N.]

Thats true. Having them on both ends is said to create a rough ride too.

 

[rookieshooter]

I know one guy that had 1 inch heims at the end of his extended RAs that connected to frame. Only to take them off and install bushings after loosining up and getting sloppy. Now this was street/trail rig.

 

[JoshC]

Mine were pretty loud. Thanks for the clarification fellas! Since this is a trail only rig i guess i've just got that decision to make.

Kirby, could you post the link and size you'd use for my radius arms?

So did we decide whether it was better to bung it or thread it? Either way doesn't really matter.

I'd like to have a guided hunt but i'm out of vacation days and my weekends are shot too. I did just buy a muzzleloader last night! I know, out of season but i'll get use to it for next season.

 

[rookieshooter]

http://www.kartek.com/products/all/heims/heims.htm

Just one of several sites

 

[JoshC]

I've got a good chance at getting a 78 F250 D44 today for cheap. That's great, but i've got some guys coming over TODAY, less then 2 hours, to help me install the gears and rebuild that my F150 axle. Now what?

 

[IZwack]

Now what?

Now you draw me a turtle in MS Paint and E-mail it to me Thanks

 

[JoshC]

Since i don't know your email address does this work?

 

[mynameisaric]

thats pretty good. i think i have a new desktop picture

 

[JoshC]

lol

I asked now what cause i was trying to decide if i wanted to build my 44 or the 3/4 ton one. So i'm reselling the new one and we got a little bit done today on mine. Got the gears put in, new joint in one shaft (other one we broke a cap), new ball joints put in and the knuckles put on the housing. Everyone had to go for the new years parties so we'll finish it up at a later date.

So if anyone needs F250 D44 look in the for sale section

 

[IZwack]

Since i don't know your email address does this work?

LOL thats perfect! thanks

 

[JoshC]

So what are my best options for steering. My D30 had 1.25 DOM (i think) with heims on each end and some kind of a triangle block that was welded to it for the drag link. I know alot of guys run chevy TREs, but i wanted to see what else. Beside hydro, my steering box is already in place and i'm going to go that route.

 

[james t]

Get a reamer and some one ton GM TRE's, or stick with heims it doesnt really matter on a trail only rig. TRE's are a bit better because in a pinch you can buy them anywere and they wont wear loose over time. Heims are also good because you can just drill a hole vs. buying a reamer and most people over exaggerate the wear issues. You can go hydro assist later on down the road if you like. Its your call.