Just washed my engine

[Turdle]

Well the good news --the pcm isn't the problem.

First I tried Chris' PCM with the pats disconnected-no go.
So, I used the live load software and loaded the stock tune minus pats into the xcal-loaded the tune into chris' pcm, and it started right up.
But it behaved no differently at all-sooo-
I returned it to stock, and switched them back.


James has my back on this real good-he's sending me the filter for the lightning maf adapter.
This is the only thing holding me back from sticking it on there and loading the street tune--

I really hope it is the maf sensor causing all this mess.

Now, I'm trying to look logically at this-
The data shows no shift command unless I manuall shift to 2nd gear.
2nd to first -first to second will shift fine.

But it seems if the PCM was to command a shift that didn't occur, I'd get a code of some type.

The data also shows the transmission range sensor is working-at least to my understanding. It is indicating the proper level for each selected range-

I'm about ready to select all of the transmission parameters and datalog them. If anyone could make sense of it I will.

I'll take anything I can get at this point--

 

[Toucan]

I had my own Service Station a few years back when electricals were more exposed than today. I wash my engine frequently with no fear at all. If engine is warm, wrapping things in plastic will cause condensation - moisture. Engine should be cool before you wrap. If things like distributors gets wet do not start engine. Blow dry it properly before starting engine. When wet you can start engine and drive around the globe, BUT as soon as you stop engine and try to start again - ouch, no way is it going to start. Replacement of parts then is a must. I recall having to dish out a few hundred dollars a couple of times when doing detailing. Reckless service personnel were a pain back then. Wd-40 is good but if you live or drive over areas that have dust you can be sorry.
Just my two cents guys
Cheers!

 

[Turdle]

I need to get ahold of Glacier--
I found this post in the 4r70w rebuild diary.

In an electronic shift transmission, the computer (PCM) will command shifts based on input conditions... it uses an array of sensors... speed. engine condition, etc... sensors to decide when it is appropriate to be in which gear. As we come forward in time more and more sensors are involved.

The Transmission tester plugs into the transmission in place of the computer.... and lets you manually select gears. On a tester device in the ****pit.... so instead of the computer shifting gears for you, you direct the transmission when to shift. The beauty of this device is that you can see if the transmission is doing as it is told to do, or whether is os gettng "bad advice" from the computer. I have one I loan out... and it is well travelled.. They are not cheap, and I do not send them out blindly, and require a deposit to cover the cost of replacing it, and my time to do so. I have two and one has several thousand miles on it.... but they are golden in deciding what is a transmission problem versus an input/computer problem.

 

[Burns]

Man still messing up. I ant got a clue with all this pats stuff. Im still stuck in first gen technology hah

 

[Turdle]

If I find the Pro-M Maf has caused this issue when I switch it out tomorrow I'm not going to burn it as I said earlier.
I'm going to send it to the west coast guys so I can watch it burn in the Truck haven bon fire

That will put some value to it.

 

[Burns]

I am ok with that idea haha

 

[Donner]

No need to ship it...

If I find the Pro-M Maf has caused this issue when I switch it out tomorrow I'm not going to burn it as I said earlier.
I'm going to send it to the west coast guys so I can watch it burn in the Truck haven bon fire

That will put some value to it.

I'm in route... that sucka will glow like radioactive waste! :shifty_ey
It won't botha you again, I assure you... I'll say I thought it was following me... so I went off! Just cut me in on the insurance... or I'm naming names.

 

[reserved50]

whats a Jet module do and cant it be removed completely?

the vent is about 3/16" diameter & impossible to fill(fluid would change color)

pressure washers are your friend, just dont spray any electrical

the gear position switch on the side of the trans has water in it?

there are no PCM codes or flashing OD light?

it has no 3rd or 4rth? maybe direct drive clutch not engaging, try leaving it in D with OD on and drive 2nd till about 4500 (high RPMS and see if it shifts into 3rd), if it doesnt shift or shifts into 3rd and its slips, let off immediately
If you hit 5K and still no shift maybe solenoid not working/no signal assuming trans gear position unit is not filled with water.

 

[Turdle]

whats a Jet module do and cant it be removed completely?

the vent is about 3/16" diameter & impossible to fill(fluid would change color)

pressure washers are your friend, just dont spray any electrical

the gear position switch on the side of the trans has water in it?

there are no PCM codes or flashing OD light?

it has no 3rd or 4rth? maybe direct drive clutch not engaging, try leaving it in D with OD on and drive 2nd till about 4500 (high RPMS and see if it shifts into 3rd), if it doesnt shift or shifts into 3rd and its slips, let off immediately
If you hit 5K and still no shift maybe solenoid not working/no signal assuming trans gear position unit is not filled with water.

OK-lets recap
First-forget about the Jet module-it was removed 4 years ago. They are bogus, and do absolutely nothing.
I mentioned it only because of the wiring issue I had discovered months ago.


I would assume the shift position sensor is working, since the data shows proper output signals from it. All shift positions will indicate on the graph.

There is no shift command coming from the PCM when shifter is in the "D" position.
There are no codes, stored or otherwise.
there is no flashing OD light
leaving it in "D" results in 1st gear only.
Dropping it to 2 results in a shift command signal sent, and a shift.
dropping it to 1, results in a shift command signal and down shift
moving it back up to "2" results in another shift command signal and shift.
Moving the selector up again to "d" results in nothing, except an indication on the graph the selector position was changed.

Now-If I slow in "d" to a complete stop, while in second gear-it will send a down shift command, and it will down shift to 1st.
However-accelerating again from this stop, it will remain in 1st gear until 2nd is manually selected.

 

[reserved50]

so there is a signal to the PCM telling it is in D, but no signal to the trans? I dont know where my stuff for that is right now, but I guess confirm at the trans there is a command from the PCM to shift if it hasnt been done? Does the speed sensor show proper speed? I know Ford had a tester you could plug in and manually operate the trans

 

[Turdle]

aha!
here is the shifter position and commanded shifts--notice in d, no command-
when dropped to "2" it commanded and transmission shifted-

down to one and back commanded anther shift--

so there is a signal to the PCM telling it is in D, but no signal to the trans? I dont know where my stuff for that is right now, but I guess confirm at the trans there is a command from the PCM to shift if it hasnt been done? Does the speed sensor show proper speed? I know Ford had a tester you could plug in and manually operate the trans

Data showing gear selector position and shift commands from PCM
It is kind of hard to see, but the pink line is shift position sensor
yellow is shift command signal. How much more verification do I need?
See, there are no commands given until I manually shift.

I'm working on the pro-m removal now-
there is a bit of wiring involved to the maf tuner box which I am also eliminating. I'll have the lightning maf installed and James' custom street tune loaded in a bit.

 

[reserved50]

this is just a wild guess, but shift solenoid 2 not getting power?

P.S. I see a link to a **** site on the screen shot

 

[Turdle]

this is just a wild guess, but shift solenoid 2 not getting power?

P.S. I see a link to a **** site on the screen shot

The hell you say-WTF where?:

 

[Turdle]

There better not be any ****-
now is not a good time to screw with me like that:

 

[rwenzing]

Jon-

In this graph, can you give an idea of how high you went with vehicle speed and RPM?

Second, it looks like the numerical values displayed in the legend are at the idle portion at the beginning of the sample - correct?

 

[Turdle]

Jon-

In this graph, can you give an idea of how high you went with vehicle speed and RPM?

Second, it looks like the numerical values displayed in the legend are at the idle portion at the beginning of the sample - correct?

If you are referring to the gauges at the top-I did not configure those-

The left side of the graph was idle-I'd say I never reached over 35 mph, rpm's about 4200



Well I now have all of the Pro-m stuff removed from the truck.
I'm gonna sit here for a minute-then go load the tune file and see what happens.
I did try to start it with the lightning maf installed. It will start, but it won't run well. Just as James suspected.

 

[rwenzing]

If you are referring to the gauges at the top-I did not configure those-

The left side of the graph was idle-I'd say I never reached over 35 mph, rpm's about 4200.

What bothers me is that the legend appears to be showing values at the beginning of the curve - in other words at idle, presumably with a closed throttle. The RPM is 1080, MAF is 212 counts and TP is 515 counts.

The TPS sensor has an absolute range of 0~1023 A-D counts, although in practice, it probably only uses the center 80% of the full range. At closed throttle, the absolute value should be above zero but I can't see any reason why the counts would be anywhere near 515. This value represents about 1/2 throttle.

The part throttle upshift schedule is determined primarily from throttle counts and vehicle speed so having a TPS value out in the weeds might keep it from upshifting properly.

In addition, the TPS tells the PCM which throttle mode you're in: closed, part or WOT. When the value is in the midrange, the PCM thinks you are at part throttle and opens the IAC a calibrated amount that is read from a IAC preposition table. This could account for your high idle.

To test this idea, you could try a couple of things:

First, unplug the TPS which should force the PCM to use a backup value, probably from the MAF. If it shifts better with the TPS unplugged, you may have found the problem.

Second, try running the engine up closer to the rev limiter to see if it will shift. There is an override shiftpoint based on RPM that should force the upshift if the TPS fails to do its job.

 

[Turdle]

What bothers me is that the legend appears to be showing values at the beginning of the curve - in other words at idle, presumably with a closed throttle. The RPM is 1080, MAF is 212 counts and TP is 515 counts.

The TPS sensor has an absolute range of 0~1023 A-D counts, although in practice, it probably only uses the center 80% of the full range. At closed throttle, the absolute value should be above zero but I can't see any reason why the counts would be anywhere near 515. This value represents about 1/2 throttle.

The part throttle upshift schedule is determined primarily from throttle counts and vehicle speed so having a TPS value out in the weeds might keep it from upshifting properly.

In addition, the TPS tells the PCM which throttle mode you're in: closed, part or WOT. When the value is in the midrange, the PCM thinks you are at part throttle and opens the IAC a calibrated amount that is read from a IAC preposition table. This could account for your high idle.

To test this idea, you could try a couple of things:

First, unplug the TPS which should force the PCM to use a backup value, probably from the MAF. If it shifts better with the TPS unplugged, you may have found the problem.

Second, try running the engine up closer to the rev limiter to see if it will shift. There is an override shiftpoint based on RPM that should force the upshift if the TPS fails to do its job.

Oh --you can come hang out in my garage any time.

I had originally checked the TPS for a smooth resistance curve-and plugged it back in, since it is a bit tricky-er to get an actual voltage reading-

I'M AN IDIOT!!!!!!

The TPS voltage at rest is 2.11v--
way off from the desired .89v I know I set it to.

Hmmmm, I'll need to get one tomorrow,
in the mean time this one is going to be disassembled for a cleaning.


Wow-
just wow

Credit also to Mountaineergreen, it is the first thing he told me to check via PM on monday.

OK,
I'm ready. Have at it----

 

[rwenzing]

Did you try driving it with the TPS unplugged? I'm curious to see if it starts shifting based on the MAF input. I think it should.

 

[Turdle]

Man I know it will!!
I'm going to grab a bite of this excellent roast beef I cooked all day-and go for a nice cruise.

Bob-you are going to get a nice cookie!!