2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins

Dana 44 out of a 1989 Grand Wagoneer.

My plan is to get as little llift as possible as I dont feel like removing my body lift. So I am using the stock Waggy knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and likely using new waggy steering parts as well and keeping it 6 lug.

I will leave it spring under as to keep the lift minimal, and use 4" lifted springs. Doing it this way will save me from buying high steer knuckles and a high steer setup. Is this best way, maybe not, but it saves me alot money and keeps my lift to around 5".

Now for those who are asking themselves why am I even bothering with this SAS. My reasons are that my Sport Trac goes through UCA and lower ball joints every other month, and I destroy tires in under 8 months. The truck just cannot handle 35's. PLus it will be way stronger than the IFS, and will flex much more than my IFS system.

If anyone has any thoughts/recomendations/concerns, I welcome all the help you can offer.

I hope money does not slow me down, but the cold weather might, either way my goal is to have this done well before Moab.
 



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I have heard do not weld with an end threaded in the insert as it could deform and lock into place after the thing cools off.

Ive done several sets, heat/speed set normally for .25" wall, bevel the end of the tubing and stuff the end of the bung with leather to keep from getting any spatter in there. I cut up an old glove. I then take another old glove and wrap the bung after welding to keep it from cooling off too fast.


Ive done a couple of sets per above and never had any issues on the trail or street. :)
 



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Got them welded up last night. Thanks for the advice IZ it worked great, and I did not destroy the tie rods when I welded with them installed, to keep from warping the inserts.

But can anyone please tell me what they had to remove, or do, to get the power steering pressure line hooked up to the pump? It looks like I have to take half the motor apart?
 






But can anyone please tell me what they had to remove, or do, to get the power steering pressure line hooked up to the pump? It looks like I have to take half the motor apart?
On the SOHC (and maybe the later OHVs), the pump must be removed in order to reconnect/disconnect the high pressure line.
 






WHAT???? Huge PITA, I thought the routing on the V8 high pressure line was tough, the SOHC is impossible
 






This is for the full hydro setup I had - but this JIC fitting end (closest to the camera) used to be connected to a piece of steel tubing that was flared to fit the Toyota box. In other words, what I did was used the stock SOHC line, had a hydraulic shop replace the middle section with a section of hydraulic hose, and then had the gear box side of the hose crimped to a piece of the Toyota tubing that came with the gear box.

steering_pump_jic6.jpg
 






There's a company called Lee's Power Steering, I think I put them in a post of mine somewhere on the forum with their number. Anyways, they make an adapter with an aluminum washer to go from the ford c-3 pump high pressure output to go to an AN fitting, then you can just order parts from them or any other place like psc motorsports and you can make your own hydraulic power steering lines.
 






On the SOHC (and maybe the later OHVs), the pump must be removed in order to reconnect/disconnect the high pressure line.

Later OHV's lines just unbolt off. I just ordered first gen lines, and everything bolted right up.
 






update status? u could still come hang out at SMORR.
 






I could maybe make it but it looks like I will not have 4 wheel drive. The shop likely wont have time rebuild mine.
 






Well it is now driveable. Well somewhat, the steering needs some work it tnds to want to wander a little. This truck drives completely different now, it needs a front sway bar, and I need to add a leaf to my springs.

Here is my P/S cooler.
SAS_009.jpg


Gen 2 steering linkage
SAS_036.jpg


I think I need a flat pitman arm
SAS_045.jpg


SAS_044.jpg


SAS_042.jpg


SAS_041.jpg


SAS_043.jpg
 






Wow.. good job on keeping it low. Ideas for a sway bar?
 












Front springs are to soft, they are a little past flat just sitting there. Cannot find wicked shocks on a search site??
 






by wicked, I mean wicked with a 2.25 or 2.5" valvable shock. Brands such as king, fox, foa, bilstein even fabtech has a nice looking 2.25"

I run no swaybar front or rear and (even before my rear got the big kings) and it did good with the triple old rancho RS5000s. When I find the right deal or get around to replacing them I plan to run either 1) a coilover 2) a single 2.5" shock. I truely convinced high pressure shocks means you don't need a sway bar. Even my 94 with the 9000XL ranchos was good to go without a sway bar.
 






Ok who has a great idea for the steering stabilizer shock mount????? This is part of the loose steering problem I have I beleive..
 






wow, that is awesome. I have been watching this thread quietly. Nice sport trac and awesome keeping it as low as possible.
 






First of all, truck looks great! :thumbsup:

2nd- Dont go with a steering stabilizer. I know someone will jump me for saying this, but in your case it is nothing more than a bandaid on a broken arm. It wont fix anything, just mask it. You need to find out why your steering is "loose" first. Is there slack in the box? Is the box bolted tightly to the frame? All link ends tight? Steering shaft nice and tight or is there some slack?

Get a friend to turn the wheel back and forth while parked, while you look at everything. 9 times out of 10 you can see the problem.

3rd- Get a flat pitman arm. The draglink running uphill instead of level or downhill could be causing some wandering. Also, how did your alignment turn out? Whats the caster look like? Where's the toe set at?

4th- Really soft springs with no trackbar can cause weird handling issues on the road.
 






I agree with James, Getting a flat pitman arm will help with your wandering. Your draglink needs to be at a slight angle.
 






I thought the pitman arm maybe an issue, anyone have any idea where to get a flat pitman arm?? I had a friend bring one over from an EB but it was not tapered like the Gen 1 steering shaft was.
 



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dude that looks sweet

what front springs were you using again?
 






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