PLAN B Build

[Stic-o]

Yeah tried the hammering on a smaller socket thing. That's why I'm down to about a 17mm. Even the smaller sockets were rounding it. And I was using 6 point sockets.

 

[CDW6212R]

My locking lugnut was round of course, a factory version. I used a 12 point socket which grabbed the round chromed surface well.

 

[Stic-o]

No bueno

Bought extractor, heated up nut, hammered it on, broke the extension bar off inside the extractor.

Now the extractor is stuck in the wheel, with the broken off tip in it.

So, Plan B (see what I did there) is too cut the tip off a 1/2 extension and weld it on to the extractor. Then we'll try again. But not today.

 

[BKennedy]

Man, I better check my adapter spacers on the rear axle.

 

[410Fortune]

karma for running spacers

What a huge PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I watching to see how the welding goes

What is this battery trick??? Using the battery juice to heat the bolts? Genius!

 

[gmanpaint]

Been wanting one of these, for situations like this. Exhaust and suspension mostly, but it should work for a lug nut just fine too.

 

[410Fortune]

$475!!!! Dang that's nice but $$$$

Sure is big not sure it would fit under the truck for downpipe bolts
Torch or plasma torch I can usually fit in there

 

[gmanpaint]

It is costly, but so is everything else. lol It would pay for itself in the long run if you used it enough.

They sell all kinds of adapters and different size coils for it. Even flat patches for body work, and wire you shape to fit whatever and reach wherever. Amazon sells all of it.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

What is this battery trick??? Using the battery juice to heat the bolts? Genius!

It sounds interesting. The juice supposedly breaks the bond of the two parts or two metals. I've got to do my water pump when I get time again to dig down into it.

 

[R.J.]

I always thought one of the studs was going to break when I would break them loose. Surprised they never did. Good ol eBay spacers.

 

[Stic-o]

So I am just ignoring the wheel for right now, as don't feel like dealing with it right now. Instead let's put a motor in

Swapped the OHV engine mounts over the SOHC, and we were able to drop the motor in half way before we hit a snag. The accessories on the motor are to wide to go in with the engine cage. . Other then that we were able to get everything thing to fit with the engine cage. So I'll have to pull the A/C pump and maybe the alternator, but it looks like it should be good then. Once we get past that we'll see where everything else lines up.

 

[410Fortune]

dropping it in with accessories mounted? hehehehehe man I wish I was there this sounds like fun

 

[Stic-o]

SOHC IN!

Alright, the details....now

It fits, and actually pretty well, I would say better then expected. First I had to cut the back of the Engine cage, and will have to modify before going back in. Front one will also have to be modified. There are also a few other thing with the engine cage like hoses and the power steering reservoir moved a bit.

No as far as just a general fitment of a SOHC in a 1st gen, because I know that's all what your dying to know.

• HAVC- There's no way to retain the 1st gen from what I can see. The Valve cover is literately in the middle of part of it.
  
• Oil Pan- The passenger side is barely resting right on the TTB bolts, but once the trans is attached and the rear of the motor comes back up (level) it should be fine. There will not be a lot of room, but enough. @Brian1 's HD motor mounts should solve some of the possible flex here.
• Firewall- Again, once level, It should be fine here.
• Hood- I don't see any issues here.

as a side note the OHV mounts must be used, but bolt right in.

More to come

 

[Stic-o]

Got all of the smog and fuel lines out of the done ready to go in the Navajo, when I noticed one of the valves on the evap purge system is broken. Looks like it was damaged in one of many fender benders the truck went through. Never caused a problem running, but could be a issue going through the smog ref. If I can't find the part online I'll have to hit up the junkyard, or maybe just go to the dealer.

 

[410Fortune]

Dealer!!! NOOOoooooooooooooooooooo!!! no more cussing in this thread please

 

[Stic-o]

Got the wiring, smog and fuel lines run underneath, gas tank is just about in, but I have to swap the front gas tank bracket. 2nds bolt in, 1st gens have rivets. This means I'll have to grind them out and the drill new holes in the frame. In order to get to the top of the frame I'm going to have to make a access panel under the driver seat area.

 

[R.J.]

You're just having too much fun stick-O

 

[Stic-o]

Huge WIN tonight. I fixed the passenger door.

I know what your all thinking...huh?

When I got the Navajo, it had a problem where you could not open the passenger door from the outside unless you pulled up on the door lock. Really a pain. I sprayed the latch with wd40 and worked it open and closed a few times, and now it works perfect. It's the little things something

 

[410Fortune]

Nice!!

Can you torch out those rivets?
Are you going to run the manual chain tensioners I keep forcing your direction in the other thread? LOL

 

[Stic-o]

Don't own a torch, but grinder should take care of it.

I reading about the tensioners, but I'm just going to run it the way it is for now. It seemed to run fine before and has 103k on it. It's not a daily driver, so if I put it all together and start to notice issues, I'll just pull the motor out again and fix it. Everything fitting and fuctional is more my concern right now.