Project R15X

[90ranajo]

Pretty sure I blew another HPOP o-ring or one of the pedestal o-rings finally went.

I think I've another HPO o-ring going out. Hopefully it'll stick together long enough to get to warmer weather to check/replace it.

Also need to add change glow plugs to the Super Duty to-do list.

 

[RockRanger]

Frame side trackbar mount started. Coil over mounts for driver side tacked in.

 

[DB_1]

Nice work there...hows the clearance between the C/O (with coils installed) and the trac-bar mount?

 

[RockRanger]

Probably 5 inches or so. I didn't put coils on to check. With the wider axle it sure makes it easier to fit everything. The axle side track bar mount will be closer to the coil over then the driver side is. There should be 3-4" on that side.

 

[90ranajo]

Matt, not sure if I'll be making San Diego by Sunday now. I blew a high pressure oil line in Sioux City and am stuck in Omaha.

Looking good on the work too.

 

[RockRanger]

You are going to need to get some 90 degree fittings for the coilover hoses.

Either the engine cross member needs a lot more hacking or a bend will need to be in the track bar. Might need a little of both. At full compression the trackbar is going uphill. I know for sure there is no way my bender will bend it. I am not even going to try to do it. I was able to bend mine with every bit a 12 ton HF pipe kinker could muster. I was using 1.5" tube. With yours being 1.75 I doubt a 12 ton will be enough.

It does look like the steering, track bar, axle, frame, and coilovers should all clear each other. It will be close but I think it will all work.

Also the coilover mount is just tacked on right now. It will need to pulled off and welded up. When you pull it off you might want to do a bit of grinding on one of the bolts that holds the master cylinder on. If you take 1/8 - 1/4" off the length it should make removing the master much easier. I think right now it would clear but it would be really tight. When you see it in person you will understand.

The passenger side should go together much easier. Going to try and work on it tomorrow.

What do you have in mind for the trans mount/ cross member. That should be ready to be addressed very soon. I am just trying to get a bunch of stuff cut and tack welded. When you get back you can burn them all in place and hopefully be close to having it rolling.

 

[DB_1]

Seems like 1.75" is way too big for a trac-bar, especially with the limited space you have. Mine is only 1.25" x .250 wall and it's held up fine. I couldn't go with bigger tube if I wanted to or else i'd be rubbing on all kinds of stuff.

 

[Stic-o]

1.75? I think mine is only 1.5, and is fine. Are you guys using the manual bender? Maybe the air could bend that 1.75.

 

[RockRanger]

I used 1.5" .250 chomoly tubing for mine. Mainly because I had a piece the exact length I needed left over from my steering. Bob has 1.75 x .250 DOM for his steering and track bar. Needless to say it all is a little tight in there. I think the heim joints he has are 7/8" thread so going much smaller of tube might be tough.

I have converted my bender to air over hydro. Even so I have heard lots of horror stories of people damaging there benders bending .25" wall tubing. I don't want its first bend to also be its last. I have a few upcoming projects I would rather give it a work out with.

 

[Stic-o]

I used 1.5" .250 chomoly tubing for mine. Mainly because I had a piece the exact length I needed left over from my steering. Bob has 1.75 x .250 DOM for his steering and track bar. Needless to say it all is a little tight in there. I think the heim joints he has are 7/8" thread so going much smaller of tube might be tough.

I have converted my bender to air over hydro. Even so I have heard lots of horror stories of people damaging there benders bending .25" wall tubing. I don't want its first bend to also be its last. I have a few upcoming projects I would rather give it a work out with.

Gotcha. I cheated and used a Superlift FSB Trac bar and cut in down some. Already had a bend in it and hasn't give me any trouble.

 

[DB_1]

I think the heim joints he has are 7/8" thread so going much smaller of tube might be tough.

Poly sells some 7/8" thread bungs that will fit in 1" ID tube (1.5" x .250 wall)

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Threaded-Weld-In-Tube-Adapter-p-349.html

 

[FROADER]

You said bungs...


Looking good fellas. Will it be ready for this month's TH?

 

[Mirge]

You said bungs...


Looking good fellas. Will it be ready for this month's TH?

LOL :biggthump

 

[DB_1]

You said bungs...

But Matt said this:

Probably 5 inches or so.

 

[RockRanger]

You said bungs...


Looking good fellas. Will it be ready for this month's TH?

Doubtful. Lots of loose ends that will need to wrapped up on it. Just trying to get the front suspension done so it can be a roller.

 

[RockRanger]

Engine cross member will need to be hacked out a lot more. Not sure if a bent trackbar will be enough. Not real happy with the passenger coilover frame mount it is a bit close to the AC. Ithink it can be an easy fix though
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[90ranajo]

How big of issue would it be to have the trackbar ~.75" longer than the steering draglink?

 

[DB_1]

How big of issue would it be to have the trackbar ~.75" longer than the steering draglink?

IMO it would be a non issue, 3/4" is too close to worry about.

My trac-bar is around 3" shorter than my drag link and I have minimal bumpsteer, i'm used to it and it's not enough for me to call it a problem. It's a 4x4, it's gonna have it's quirks:

 

[Stic-o]

I don't see a problem here, as long as there parallel, I think Your good. I know mine arn't the same length.

 

[james t]

Rule of thumb- having them parallel is more important than the same length. Length helps, but parallel helps more betterer. 3/4" difference is almost perfect... hell ive had one that was almost 4" off on length before and still had good street manners.