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Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd


I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.


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So.....

Spent a while and replaced the old busted bushing with the new one, and the clunk is still there :(

Bad bushing

brokenRAbushing.jpg


Steve turned the wheel back & forth so I could watch what was going on earlier today. What I saw was the 3rd member Jumping quickly with the clunking. When we found the top of the R/A bushing to be bad, we assumed it was transferring the slack to the drivers beam, and causing the pressure clunk.

Now that the bushing wasn't the problem, I will remove the front drive shaft tomorrow and check the U-joints closer, and the slip joint. The boot on the slip joint is broken, and maybe, it is binding up as this rig traversed a lot of deep water last weekend. :dunno:
 



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Tore the drivers side down, pulled the axle so I can check the lower ball joint nut. BJ was fine.

Pulled the coil spring and seat to get to the upper R/A bolt, and was able to tighten it a 1/4 turn, same with the lower bolt. It wasn't easy to do that, but with a long breaker bar, it did tighten more. :rolleyes:

Added a 2nd rear large washer to the drivers side R/A end, and cranked tight.

Clunk is gone. :party:

I take a bow to those that can tear this down and put back together in 30 mins (as they say), it took me a couple hours to do all that plus check everything and torque it all back down and off the stands. :notworthy
 






Tore the drivers side down, pulled the axle so I can check the lower ball joint nut. BJ was fine.

Pulled the coil spring and seat to get to the upper R/A bolt, and was able to tighten it a 1/4 turn, same with the lower bolt. It wasn't easy to do that, but with a long breaker bar, it did tighten more. :rolleyes:
That is how I have to do it.. I use my high lift jack handle.
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Long wrench with cheater bar by maniak_az, on Flickr

Added a 2nd rear large washer to the drivers side R/A end, and cranked tight.

Next time you do RA bushings, put 2 washers in front of the RA bushing (do driver and passenger at same time). That will shorten the threads you have on the end AND push the axle forward a bit to help get some more clearance to the fender. I did have to cut the washer down (outside diameter) when I did this. Otherwise it would hit a RA bracket bolt at full stuff.

Clunk is gone. :party:

Woohoo.. :chug:

~Mark
 






How did you get the nut back on with the extra cup washer in front?

I had to use the come along to get the pass side back far enough to get the nut started. :eek:

The red poly bushings are made a bit diff then the stock ones are, maybe thats what makes it hard to get the nut started? (They fit into one another)
 






How did you get the nut back on with the extra cup washer in front?

I had to use the come along to get the pass side back far enough to get the nut started. :eek:

I put the forward of the double washers reversed so its only adding its thickness.

Many times I could get it back on. As long as I got about 2 threads on I'd hit it with the air wrench and then the impact.. If I couldn't get it started I'd do the following.

Put the wheels back on, chock the front tires, put it gear and let the truck push itself into the front axle which pushes the RA post through more. Now set the E-brake so it won't roll back at all, crawl underneath and hit it with the impact gun.. and viola..

~Mark
 






That will work :thumbsup:

Pretty much the same objective as the come along I guess.

I don't know if it makes a diff or not in the way they go back together, but I still have the stock rivets in mine :D
 






Another day, and another post. It never ends with these old rigs.

Been having the warm idle chug lately. So I got the 2-wire coolant sensor to install. Hopefully that takes care of it.

A while back this rig had cluster ga issues. Replacing the main battery ground cable took care of that, but yesterday the dummy oil pressure ga pegged to the high side and floated a bit up & down (staying to the high side).

I am going to replace the oil sending unit and see if that's the problem, but something tells me it is something else. Why? Because nothing I do works the first time...LOL

From what I understand about the oil ga is,... it just tells you have pressure or not. If no pressure, the needle just drops to the low side. So for this to peg on the high side, tells me it's a voltage issue. Will find out soon enough. I have a feeling that the leaking oil from the timing chain cover is causing this :dunno:
 






From what I understand about the oil ga is,... it just tells you have pressure or not. If no pressure, the needle just drops to the low side. So for this to peg on the high side, tells me it's a voltage issue. Will find out soon enough. I have a feeling that the leaking oil from the timing chain cover is causing this :dunno:

If you haven't converted your gauge/sending unit combo to move with pressure then the issue will be in the clutster or wires to it.

The facotry sending unit basically ground itself when there is more than 5psi. There is a 20 ohm resister on the back of the cluster which will take that full sweep (ground signal) and stick it about the middle of the sweep of the gauge.

The trick to using a real sending unit is to short out the 20 ohm resistor. When you do that it uses the internal resistance (impedence) of the sending unit to control where the needle is.

~Mark
 






If you haven't converted your gauge/sending unit combo to move with pressure then the issue will be in the clutster or wires to it.

The facotry sending unit basically ground itself when there is more than 5psi. There is a 20 ohm resister on the back of the cluster which will take that full sweep (ground signal) and stick it about the middle of the sweep of the gauge.

The trick to using a real sending unit is to short out the 20 ohm resistor. When you do that it uses the internal resistance (impedence) of the sending unit to control where the needle is.

~Mark

Now this is something I haven't heard yet. Is there a write up someone about how to do this? I would really like to do that to mine.
 






Thanks Mark.

It must be as you say, because the new oil sender didn't change a thing. :(

I haven't taken apart a 1st gen cluster yet, do they have separate pods like the 2nd gens? I have a spare cluster from the 91 parts rig I can use.

There is a write up on the oil pressure gauge somewhere ahodges.
 












This rig just can't be happy unless something is wrong with it. Today's deal is the battery is low, and almost dead. Recently new 1000ca battery, new 130 amp alt, new cables, and its reading low voltage at the volt ga. Sheesh! :rolleyes:
 






This rig just can't be happy unless something is wrong with it. Today's deal is the battery is low, and almost dead. Recently new 1000ca battery, new 130 amp alt, new cables, and its reading low voltage at the volt ga. Sheesh! :rolleyes:

Throw a real volt meter on it. Check it at the battery and near the dash (like the cig lighter).

The gauge on our '92 reads lower than it did years ago, but when I check the voltage it is still good.

~Mark
 


















Alt test low output. Taking it back in for a replacement. Glad it's a lifetime warranty. :thumbsup:

Stop pissing off happy-fun-ball. The more you piss it off, the more problems its gonna cause you.

~Mark
 












Home test on the Alt showed it to be putting out 13.2v, just barely enough to give the battery a surface charge.

Took it to AZ to have them test it on their portable tester. It showed the battery to be good, and the ALT passed all tests. I told them about the low voltage output, and they said to remove it and they would bench test it, as that machine gives better results.

So I did. It tested to be good. It read 16.4 at its peak output, and 14.2 at it's lowest. Tested 3 times with same results. I installed it back on, and now need to test other things. :rolleyes:

On another note....

Spring testing the rig with some paint I have to relocate since I am moving.

loosepaintcansin94.jpg

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Springs are squatted so low, I can't pull the trailer loaded with more paint. :(

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