Pugly

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Dono.

I don't mess around! LOL

From what the manual says, only use RTV under & over the lower gasket where the intake meets the heads and the front & rear ports. So the rest is a dry install??? That's what I'm getting out of it at least.

 

[Rick]

... and my back is going to be killing me from this. (Lifted 8" over stock, and the engine is lowered from the body lift.)

This is what I did when I pulled my heads

 

[gmanpaint]

Wow. Haha!

 

[Dono]

Thanks Dono.

I don't mess around! LOL

From what the manual says, only use RTV under & over the lower gasket where the intake meets the heads and the front & rear ports. So the rest is a dry install??? That's what I'm getting out of it at least.

Correct. the front and rear are the water ports, so I rtv'd both sides of the gasket. Across the front and back of the valley, I went thick on the bloack, and light on the lower intake just to make sure the rtv was sticking to the lower intake so when I seated it to the block I'd ahve a really good seal.

Rick. LOL. Great idea. Love the front flat tires along with the removed fenders. Good way to make sure they don't get all scratched up.

 

[Rick]

Good way to make sure they don't get all scratched up.

Makes it much easier to reach into the middle of the engine compartment when there aren't fenders in the way. Stand right on top of the tire, no problemo Sure wasn't worried about scratching them

 

[gmanpaint]

My knees feel as bad as my back does. Constantly bent over on my toes, puts the strain on them.

It's hell getting old! Oh well, price to pay to save a buck or two. Doubtful anybody I paid would have gone thru the trouble I did cleaning everything or being careful not to break every clip on the connectors. So...yeah...there's that at least.

 

[Dono]

Just remember, this board is full of guys that paid a shop for work, and still have the same, or a new issue, because the work was done in a very sloppy manner.

I think book rate on the job you are doing is around 5 hours. You just can't clean everything properly and be careful working with dried up connectors, etc. in that time.

Your doing it your self (Sore back and all) and will end up with a much better repair than if someone else did the job. Can you tell I haven't had great luck with repair shops either?

 

[gmanpaint]

For the love of God, WHY did Ford have to make the water neck for the T-stat such a PITA to get to the bolts?

Notes to self and anybody else that stumbles upon this...

BEFORE installing Upper intake, do the following:

Install connectors to injectors, HO2's, heater core hose, route vac line for throttle body, temp sensor connectors, and anything else on the engine harness that goes under it!!!!






(Darn Rookie)

 

[Dono]

Doh!

I had a friend that used to say that anything worth doing is worth doing twice.

I guess this applies.

 

[gmanpaint]

I always seem to do things twice, but it helps me remember. LOL

Work got in the way today. Ran out of daylight to finish. All thats left is the alternator, rad hose, plug wires, vac tree lines, fill er up and burp/bleed, and fire it up.

Looking like a good night for delivery, I'm starved, but no ambition to cook.

 

[Dono]

Sounds like a good night. Tomorrow you get your wheels back.

Did you get a chance to re-torque that lower intake today? If not, Im sure you can get at most of the bolts with the right extensions tomorrow. I really do think it will help that gasket last longer.

 

[gmanpaint]

She is all back together and running again.

Yes Dono, I did torque them down again, was all good. I used Ultra black RTV instead of the quick dry black Felpro included in the kit. I used about 3/4 a tube and no way would there had been enough with the little tube given. Big fat beads on the front and back under the gasket, and smaller beads on top, plus some for the valve covers where they meet the heads. Should stay sealed. (crosses fingers)

Upon initial start up, the engine was knocking pretty good, and It kinda freaked me out a bit, but it smoothed out and disappeared. I really didn't think that the oil had drained from the lifters that easy(guessing it was them?). The covers were only off for a few days. I did turn a couple pushrods by hand because I was curious to feel for slack, but they felt good & snug. Maybe that was the cause of the noise? This engine has 236,000 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure that was the first time it was opened up.

Anyways...no coolant leaks. (knocks on wood) Thanks for all the help you guys! Mucho appreciated!


But.....I think the rear main seal is leaking again. Been replaced twice now. If it's not one thing, it's another with these old rigs.

 

[Dono]

I think all of us are leaking a bit of oil. sigh.

Great to hear your in good shape with no coolant dripping anymore. Whew!

 

[ahodges]

Sweet! Glad it is working out so far.

If your "rear main leak" started again right after you put the intake back on, it could be that it is leaking oil out of the rear of the valley where that little piece of cork goes to seal off the gap between the block and the intake. I hate to even mention it but I had that happen before on my 4.0..

 

[gmanpaint]

Sweet! Glad it is working out so far.

If your "rear main leak" started again right after you put the intake back on, it could be that it is leaking oil out of the rear of the valley where that little piece of cork goes to seal off the gap between the block and the intake. I hate to even mention it but I had that happen before on my 4.0..

You made me rethink the oil leak with this post. I took some pics, and after looking at the pic at the rear of the engine looking down on the trans tunnel, I see the oil leak has been ongoing for some time there. The oil stain is only on the drivers side of the bell housing, same side as the coolant leak. I always just assumed it was the rear main seal not seating again. Of course I was always flat on my back looking up underneath and seen the oil on the bottom of the trans only.

So, if the intake gasket was bad in rear as well as front, it doesn't surprise me. But now I am concerned that I didn't get enough RTV where I needed it in the rear area.

There goes my feeling of security again, right out the window!

For future reference for anybody that stumbles upon this info:

94 4.0L OHV lower intake removed.

Where to place the RTV for the gasket.

 

[ahodges]

lol.. As long as it is isn't leaking too much, it'll be fine. I think its way better than a coolant leak that always gets worse. There isn't any pressure on the oil valley at the intake - block joint.

I had to install a new engine in mine at 91,000 miles and I performed the R&R including putting the intake on. Well I had a real slow oil leak which I thought was the rear main and after about 20,000 miles I had to take it back apart for a different issue and discovered that that little cork piece in the back had pushed out slightly causing the oil leak. Just think of it as continuous corrosion prevention!

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, the oil leak seems to have stopped.

New issues have happened since the intake gasket rebuild.

The RPMs are 300 higher in idle, and jump to 1200 when going past neutral. So when it's shifted from park to drive it jumps up as the shifter goes past neutral.

I checked every vac line I could find including the fuel regulator. All were connected and no leaks to be found. :scratch:

 

[Dono]

sure sounds like a vac leak to me two. Sorry, I don't know what to say other than trying to find it with spraying something over the upper intake area's to see if she revs up more.

 

[gmanpaint]

So.... Pugly is getting an SAS eventually. Parts collecting has been going on for at least 2 years now for this Mod.

The full width '77 HP D44 has arrived thanks to Twizted (Steve) for storing & delivering it to me.

This axle was originally planned for Pugly's partner in crime, but plans have since changed.

This axle has been rebuilt with new everything, and assembled very nicely. Too bad I have to tear it down completely again to narrow it. Local axle shop wants $450 to narrow it, but I have to deliver it completely gutted down to the housing alone. This is way more than I expected to pay, and am looking for other means to get this done. Might take an ad out & see who responds.

Setting the pinion angles and the castor angles for the new wedges and C to the tube, plus getting a good penetrating weld with proper alignment is crucial. This is something I can't do myself. A proper Jig should be used for this.

Going to remove 6" and run the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard EB axles with X760 U-joints. The stock EB axles run the small joints and are weaker than the EX stock axle set up. Still need to order a set of wedges, and the inner/outer replacement axles. Really wish I could afford to add a high steer set up, but not possible.

The raised aftermarket track bar mount needs welded to the axle as well. I need to research more on this to find out when the proper time is to install it. Would be nice if it could go on while it is at the axle shop and have them weld it on while it is there, but i just don't know if that is wise or not for alignments sake.

I have so much reading to do on all this still. Feel as if I am studying for an exam. All the small details of taking on a project like this for the first time is daunting to say the least.

The things that are intimidating to me are:

Radius arm bracket mounting.
Making a new trans cross member.
Installing the upper Track bar mount to frame rail & trimming of the engine cross member.
Figuring the proper coils and shocks to run & the mounts for each
Cutting the DOM tubes to proper length to add the threaded bung fittings for steering & track bar.
Figuring the proper pitman arm length.

Yeah.... Reading & doing are 2 completely different things. This is definitely going to push my limits on everything I know. Wrenching & fabricating are also 2 completely different things. My biggest fear about attempting this myself is I get stuck on something and can't continue on without help, or life gets in the way half way thru this.

 

[gmanpaint]

And work has all but stopped coming in. The weather has stopped most jobs until spring from going into production, as the people around here just don't want the work done until it warms back up.

This means there is no available funds for the SAS to happen anytime soon, as I still need some parts to make this happen. Bills have to be paid somehow, so unless I get a temp job that makes more than the bills are, this just has to wait a bit longer.