Robb's SAS

Hey Guys!
OK, I was trying to put off starting a thread like this until stuff got closer to done, but I have been asked so many questions in the middle of other threads, I thought I should.

This is the plan:
-SOA
-HP YJ D30 SFA
-35"s

As a lot of you guys know, I had the oppurtunity to have the work done by an expert at one heck of a good price. The SOA and SFA are being done by Cory at CRL Customs So, as far as the really technical stuff, I will have no idea since I am not the person actually doing the work.

OK, the first obvious question. "Why a D30?" I know most people instantly think of a D44 when they think of a SAS for an Explorer. The idea of a D30 hit me when I was planning on doing the project myself (which would have never become reality). I liked how the YJ D30 was about the same width, bolt pattern was the same, I thought leafs would be pretty easy (Wrong!), and $$$. So I started looking into the pros and cons of the D30, and after a lot of research, I felt it met my requirements for what I was looking for out of an axle. And to be honest, I think stock D44s (especially LPs) are a bit overated (yep, I said it). They aren't the strongest things on Earth like a lot of people seem to think.

OK, enough yapping for a starter post. Let me throw a few pics of the progress.

Robb

Start with a stock pic:

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

i used the jeep brake lines with the explorer hard lines. i had to get a flare tool and put new ends on that would screw into the jeep line. i had to tak teh entire brake line off the explorer to flare it as the clamp wouldnt hold the line so i put the clamp in the hydraulic press to hold it and whammo they worked fine.


i went to mud boggs yesterday - still on 32s and goofed off a little. i blew a powersteering hose. it was on the send line on the press fitting.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

lizardtrac,
what chevy driveshaft did you end up using? im gearing this cominf weekend and i of course wnat to wheel but i still havent had my driveshaft lengthened. i was thinking that if the local boneyard guy who is giving me killer prices on everythign so far might be able to hook me up with a chevy driveshaft for cheaper than getting mine lengthened. the other reaosn i saw a couple guys break drive shafts yesterday and they were both lengthened. so im thinking that they either did piss poor job themselves or had some one do it and it jsut doesnt hold up.

thanks!

 

[Muskrat]

I'm a little concerened with my steering set up, need help. I was going to make a draglink up, and go from the Ranger box, to the EB tierod, the way they came back in 76. I have been talking to a few people, and they tell me that the drag link, tierod, and trac bar ALL have to be parrallel, I was under the impression that as long as the DL and TB were the same length, mounted close to one another with the wheels straight, that they were the only things that needed to be parrallel. how much of a problem am I creating if the above are not parrallel to the tierod? and how noticible will it be on the road. I need help fast, my loaner Heep just puked on me, so I need my truck back asap. Thanks guys
Shaun

 

[jeffseal]

just the drag link and track bar need to be parrellel. the tie rod should be parallel with the ground.

 

[Muskrat]

that's what I was afraid of. The lowest on the frame I can go with the trac bar is 6" below frame, and even where it's at, I'm worried about clearence issues. If I wer to bend the trac bar to raise from the axle, and come to the frame, would that hel at all, and also do the same for the draglink, I'm doubting it will make much difference, I think I'll need to go with a flat top knuckle on the pass. side to make this work. Thanks

 

[james t]

Originally posted by jeffseal
the track bar should be parallel with the ground.

huh? mine's not. both the trac bar and the draglink on mine are at an angle. as long as they are both at the same angle, its ok. it would be impossible for mine to be parallel with the ground.

 

[jeffseal]

sorry i ment tie rod is parrellel to ground. I changed the post

 

[Muskrat]

I feel much better, Damn Chevy driver/ race car builder told me that STOCK FORD steering wouldn't work, he recommended GM cross over, which I heard causes the wheels to toe in and out while turning. Thanks guys, back to the project

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

hey guys ive got a problem and may be you can help....

first is anyone reusing the stock powersteering cooler?
if so where did you mount it?
if i dont need it please let me know. was this more for the rack and pinion or for pump. meanign which one creates the most heat that the cooler becomes necessary. note - non of the other trucks around hte farm have ps coolers so im thinking that unless i have to have it that i wont use it.

can soem one give me exact hose hook up in relationship to pump and box? i know that the output line from the pump is facing the fender well and the return line is under. what about on the box one fitting is larger than the other i assumed that the larger was the send and smaller the return but ive blown 2 lines now. i thin i have them crossed but when i switched them and fill the resevior with thefluid it jerks the wheel and spews fluid everywhere. there is a chance that i had it crossed - switched them but because i added the cooler only confused myself and never actually switched.

anyone have any ideas. i actually drove donw the road and in the mud the other day befor ei blew a line then i rehooked everythign up and couldnt make it out the driveway.

so close i gotta have it road worthy by saturday for a longer trip then have it really road worthy as my wife wants to take it on vacationadn not her new car "the explorer is safer."

 

[Skunk]

the cooler isnt needed, its just for the rack. I had the same problem with the steering box, I hooked em up backwards, that is after having custom lines made for it, and being that one is bigger then the other, I had to re make the lines, the smaller one is the pressure side, and the larger one is the return, I found that out the hard way.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

mucho gracias!

thats what i get for making assumptions.

did you end up getting more lines made? im thinking that as long as the pump is off a 4.0 ranger that the fitting on the pump and gear box should be the same. i might check into this.

 

[Skunk]

yeah, I had new lines made.

Got the new tires today from my sponcer......

 

[DasFrem]

All I can say Chris is BADASS!!!!!

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

37's?

too sweet!

going with 10" wheel? unstoppable. cant wait to see the skunk on cover of 4wheeler mag.

 

[jeffseal]

where can you have lines made, is that something you can get at autozone/pepboys?

 

[offroader_69_me]

Originally posted by lizardtrac
yeah, I had new lines made.

Got the new tires today from my sponcer......

what size are those??? 35's? I looked at the MudZilla but I want 37's!

 

[Skunk]

those are 35's, the larger sizes are comming out soon. Ill get 38's when they are available, within the next couple of months.

 

[DocVijay]

Cool tires. I love Maxxis and have been using them for a while (on my mountain Bike). I was excited to see they are making truck tires. Let us know how they are.

Can't wait to see your completed truck. Or Robb's for that matter. Or anyone's.

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by lizardtrac
those are 35's, the larger sizes are comming out soon. Ill get 38's when they are available, within the next couple of months.

I hope you get a D60 to go with those 38s too!

 

[CoryL]

After being sick for a week and not being able to work here is where things are at after today.

Today I got the front shock towers mounted and the trac-bar made and mounted.

Gotta forklift flex it again for shock lengths and figure out what to do with the tranny crossmember. The front driveshaft hits it and it will need to be clearanced or something.

Also gotta talk to Robb about some options for him. His rear driveshaft isn't even engaged at the slip anymore.