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Sandbox2.000 Suspension Build

Got out on the road a bit tonight and I'm liking the 2" drop (need an alignment really bad though, I'll do that ASAP)
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Got an appointment for an alignment tomorrow!

In the couple times I've driven around the neighborhood recently, I've already noticed the tire rub on the swaybar is not so easy to avoid when pulling into the garage or a parking spot. Anyone running wide tires (or high offset) up front ever add steering lock stops? If I'm losing turning radius anyway, I figure I may as well save my inner sidewalls.
 






That looks great, the tire width and size looks well placed in the wheel wells. What size and offset are those wheels again, and the spacers are about 1/2" was it?

My 18's at 30.5" tall had a minor rub on the sway bar, the effective offset was 29mm on 8.5" wheels. If yours rubs a lot, it might be the tire diameter but likely the offset. I think all of the steering racks had the same travel range, and you can install limiters, easily. The later SN95 Mustangs had them on all racks, due to the bigger 18 and larger wheels. I think they are all a stiff urethane and can slip on and off. It's been ages since I put one in my 91 Mark VII, and I just looked at it without seeing if it would come off fast.
 






That looks great, the tire width and size looks well placed in the wheel wells. What size and offset are those wheels again, and the spacers are about 1/2" was it?
Wheels are 17x9+24mm and the spacers are 11mm, so I'm effectively running a +13mm offset. Factory offset was +12mm, so the wheel center lines are very close to where they would have been before. My goal was to give enough space between the sidewall and upper ball joint without throwing off the steering feel too much.

I think all of the steering racks had the same travel range, and you can install limiters, easily. The later SN95 Mustangs had them on all racks, due to the bigger 18 and larger wheels. I think they are all a stiff urethane and can slip on and off. It's been ages since I put one in my 91 Mark VII, and I just looked at it without seeing if it would come off fast.
That's good to hear. When I get the truck back from its alignment, I'll pull the tie rod boots and take a look at how easy it would be to slip on some spacers. If I can buy Mustang spacers (or grab some from a Mustang at the salvage yard) that'd be convenient.

Otherwise, they don't seem hard to make. I've been having good luck modifying random poly bushings I've accumulated over the years for a number of things recently. I forgot to note in this thread I used Energy Suspension 2061 bushings to replace the rubber ones in the OEM traction bars. The OD fits almost perfect, the length just has to be taken down 1/4" or so and then cut down a leaf spring bushing sleeve to press into the center of the bushing.
 






... I used Energy Suspension 2061 bushings to replace the rubber ones in the OEM traction bars. The OD fits almost perfect, the length just has to be taken down 1/4" or so and then cut down a leaf spring bushing sleeve to press into the center of the bushing.

Very nice, that's a great detail of how to upgrade those OEM V8 traction bar bushings.

That tire and wheel combination is just 3mm outboard more than my not yet mounted set. Looking at your truck as it is, I like that a lot and not much could change to make it any better. I think a 1" taller version would also work well(the 18x9 and same tire specs), but finding the right wheel is very hard in some needed dimensions.
 






That tire and wheel combination is just 3mm outboard more than my not yet mounted set. Looking at your truck as it is, I like that a lot and not much could change to make it any better. I think a 1" taller version would also work well(the 18x9 and same tire specs), but finding the right wheel is very hard in some needed dimensions.
Thanks, I appreciate it.

I had been planning on 18s, but I couldn't find a tire setup that I was happy with in an 18, so I went with 17s. The 275s are obviously tight in front, but I have sufficient clearance relative to everything but the swaybar. The rear has no clearance issues since I pulled the driver's side parking brake cable upward and inward.

I still think a staggered setup with 255/55R18s in front and 285/50s or 295/45s in back would look awesome, but the impracticality of not being able to rotate tires is a deal breaker for me. If you're AWD, those sizes probably aren't quite all within the same OD range to keep a transfer case happy either.
 






Got the front end aligned yesterday. Mechanic said I already had the camber in-spec so he just adjusted toe -- shocking what a difference it made. No more bump steer and my steering wheel sits straight for the first time since I've owned the vehicle.

Now I need to get brackets welded and my limit straps on before I ruin my new shocks. Also ready to start dialing in the damping -- it's a little springy for my taste as it sits now.

Hard to believe, but it's looking like my "phase 1" suspension overhaul is coming close to the end!

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@97Sandbox Man, don't she look pretty?

Great work on the drop, that seems like a very nice setup you've worked out there.
 






Thanks for the kind words! I'm happy with the results.

Swapping out torsion bars for coilovers is something I'd 100% recommend whether you're lowering, lifting, or just looking for a smoother ride. I'm glad it now has nothing but polyurethane bushings, bump stops, and body mounts too -- really takes out the sloppiness of a 22 year old ride.
 






For posterity, here's everything that went into this build:
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Like most things, many of these parts have gone way up in price since I started buying them in winter 2020. At least this list should help prevent others from repeating my costlier mistakes ($710 on the wrong coilovers ouch!).
 






smart to keep a spreadsheet!
did you sell the old coilovers re coupe some money?
 






smart to keep a spreadsheet!
did you sell the old coilovers re coupe some money?
Haha no I'm saving those for an eventual off-road focused Ex build -- one of the many other tabs in my spreadsheet of Explorer project ideas!
 






This is an awesome write-up, thanks for sharing everything and being so thorough! I'm looking to do a lot of the same things to my 2.5 Sport, definitely saving this one for later.
 






This is an awesome write-up, thanks for sharing everything and being so thorough! I'm looking to do a lot of the same things to my 2.5 Sport, definitely saving this one for later.
Happy to do it! I know I always appreciate finding detailed build threads so I try to write them like what I'd want to read.

All of what I did should be the same for an '01-'03 Sport except you've already got bigger front rotors from the factory and won't have to track down spindles. I think the '01-'03 came with multi-leaf packs in the rear too?
 






Grabbed a pair of rack limiters from an SN95 mustang at the salvage yard today
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I was looking at the rack from above in a Mounty that had the 5.0 yanked out and realized how hard it's going to be to get the inner side of the tie rod boots off
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Had I thought ahead, I would've dealt with this before putting the LCAs back in, it looks like the best access would be from underneath with the LCA removed
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It's going to take some thinking and poking around to see if there's another way to get to that boot (I really don't want to take my LCAs off again).
 






I replaced my two inner boots on one truck years ago. It was not bad to remove the old boots, and the new ones came with zip ties(not OEM brand). It took a a while to install the first boot and the zip tie, the 2nd one was a few minutes to do it again.
 






I replaced my two inner boots on one truck years ago. It was not bad to remove the old boots, and the new ones came with zip ties(not OEM brand). It took a a while to install the first boot and the zip tie, the 2nd one was a few minutes to do it again.
Did you reach the original ties from the outside or the inside of the subframe?
 






Did you reach the original ties from the outside or the inside of the subframe?
I put my zip ties on the rack
Behind the rack in the sub frame kind of a pain
Get some long nylon ties
 






On thing I've noticed about the wide, sticky tires is they really toss up road debris. I've never been a huge fan of mud flaps, but I found a pretty cool OE set at the salvage yard and I think they may go on once I get the black trim reinstalled.
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I think those are the front flares I bought from the JY a couple of years ago. They add a tiny amount of width, and are tasteful.

I think the inner TRE zip tie I put on from the outside reaching in to it. It was a matter of fishing the zip tie in first, and then being able to grab it when I got the boot pushed up all the way. It is tight in there, I used a needle nose(pliers and Vice Grips).
 






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