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Section525 - D44 2nd gen. leaves SAS

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Well since I have the axle in-hand finally... I guess I can start my thread.

I bought this axle about a month ago from a guy in OR and finally made it around to picking it up yesterday. I watched as he actually took the axle out from under the truck. It's pretty clean.

1983 Jeep Wagoneer LP D44

The plans:
Rubicon Express leaf springs (unless someone suggests otherwise)
4.88s
Detroit

Then SOA the rear, add a locker, and 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 adapters (I heard they make them). So far I am thinking about going 35/36s BFGs or IROKs.

So.... any suggestions?
 

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Little bit of a change in plans. :D

Expect some tube work in the near future. :thumbsup: B2Dude brought his Dad's bender back up with him. Right now they only have a 1.5" die so no cage yet. I'm thinking bumpers and shock hoops.. with an engine cage (for some reason :p: ).

My goal is to have this thing done by the early June Pismo run.

Bought a spare manual 1354 case today for a whopping $92. Can't beat that. :salute:
 

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Little bit of a change in plans. :D

Expect some tube work in the near future. :thumbsup: B2Dude brought his Dad's bender back up with him. Right now they only have a 1.5" die so no cage yet. I'm thinking bumpers and shock hoops.. with an engine cage (for some reason :p: ).

My goal is to have this thing done by the early June Pismo run.

Bought a spare manual 1354 case today for a whopping $92. Can't beat that. :salute:

92$ you lucky dog :D
 






92$ you lucky dog :D

There's another one at the yard we were at. You just have to pull it. The one I picked up was in the tcase bin. But they should be the same price. :thumbsup:
 






There's another one at the yard we were at. You just have to pull it. The one I picked up was in the tcase bin. But they should be the same price. :thumbsup:

I think im gonna have to go pull that ugly duck out....good lookin out!:thumbsup:
 






You inquired about clearance of the 1354, the chassis, and upper link :

upperlink_clearance.jpg

This is at full droop right before I removed the shocks. The fuel lines run on top of the chassis, they used to run on the side of it.
 






Another reference pic for yewww

shock_lowermount.jpg
 






Thanks IZ. It's been almost a year and I still don't have my garden hoses on. :(
 






I dont understand why you want to buy mounts when you can cut them in minutes, MINUTES!!! with that plasma cutter.

I'm still using stupid cut-off wheels on a grinder - how crude.
 






I dont understand why you want to buy mounts when you can cut them in minutes, MINUTES!!! with that plasma cutter.

I'm still using stupid cut-off wheels on a grinder - how crude.

I didn't say I was going to buy them.
sheeep.gif
I was just working from that design. I have my cardboard cut out and I'm gonna blast some out tonight. I just wanted your professional opinion on them first. :salute:

So I think now I'm going to combine yours with that design and make something bling.

You cut and turned, didn't you? Maybe I should do that before I do anything else. :eek:
 






gotcha mate!

Yeah you gotta cut and turn first -- its time consuming so just take it easy, the inner knuckle will give in eventually.
 






showers in shhpokannn... shhhpoowwwkaannnnnnn
 






Youre tdrunk
 






So this is where I am at:

I don't think I need to keep any of the ABS module because my '96 doesn't use RABS to obtain speed. So, I think I can rip the whole thing out.

Now what about this? Could I basically take the line going to the front passenger side, remove it from the ABS module and install it into the master cylinder? I'm only looking to make it to about the center of the axle, so that should be plenty of line. Otherwise, it might be just as easy to make a new hard line going from the master cylinder to the middle of my front crossmember, then drop a soft line from there.

But what I am really wondering about is the rear hard line. What is the best way to connect it from the MC to where it use to go into the ABS module?
 

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ingles? It.. proportions the.. grilled cheese what?
 






The proportioning valve decreases the amount of brake pressure going to the rear or else if you stomp on the brakes on the road, the rear will lock up way before the front and the vehicle will be all over the place.

You adjust the valve so that the rear locks up at about the same time as the front (which means you'll have to do skid tests in the rain cauz there's no other way to tell where you set the valve to).
 






I <3 U.
 






Ahaha weirdo..
 






So will you only have one soft line going to a hard line on the front axle. A lot like the rear???
 



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So will you only have one soft line going to a hard line on the front axle. A lot like the rear???
Thats how I have mine .. there's one soft line connecting the chassis to the axle and there's a T-fitting on the axle that goes to both calipers.
 






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