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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

This thread has multiple ideas. Have a look.
Explorer 5.0 EFI w/roller rockers what valve covers? - Page 2 - ClassicBroncos.com Forums

Fresh air needs to come in one side valve cover and go down into the crankcase and up the other valve cover through a PCV valve then into your supercharger inlet.
The oil fill cap tube in the picture of your valve covers is where the air goes in, so the other valve cover is where the PCV valve needs to be.
I like the one in post 21.

i looked that over. to me it looks like they talk more on valve covers then a pcv system. however, so what your saying is i can run a breather on one cover and run a tube to the intake from the over cover?

like, a tube can go from this one (if you look i have a plug on it) going to the intake

78499713_567392334061940_5988506457392283648_n.jpg


and a breather on this one? will it toss oil out however?

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i also solved another small problem. cant remember if i mentioned but instead of bolts, i am using a carburetor stud to bolt or sandwich the pan and blower mount to the motor.
what i plan on is to be able to lay the intake to head gaskets down, then the valley pan using the studs to line everything up. then lay a bead of silicone down to seal the pan to the blower mount. i wanted to be able to drop, the mount, rails and blower down as a unit using the fuel rails also as something to grab onto (hopefully it will be happy, time will tell).
2 things i didnt like about the carb kit i am using (moroso kit 37961) was that there wasnt a lot of threads that went into the heads, as well as the studs sat a little too tall for me to get a socket on top to tighten everything down. me not being a expert, or even a novice at machining wasnt sure if you can run a thread chaser down them being what i would think was harden steel. well, it work. solved to problems at once. was able to add 1/2 inch of threads to the bottom of the studs, and also lower the studs on top being able to get a socket on up top so i can torque them

78539533_516259138980641_7691976094274027520_n.jpg
 



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No,
No breather, that would be an un metered air leak since you have a MAF sensor.
I was just referencing the pictures of the valve covers with grommets in them.
1.You need a tube from your air intake tube, behind the maf sensor - going to one valve cover. That would be fresh air coming in. That fresh air has to be measured from the maf so it has to come from behind the maf or it will be un metered(un measured) and cause a lean condition. (this is how it is done from the factory).
2. You need a pcv valve in the other valve cover with a vacuum hose on top(of the pcv valve) that will go to your Supercharger inlet where there will be only vacuum and never boost.
 






That's a great explanation, which is hard to find in the countless blower project threads etc. The PCV system is an air passage loop, the metered air in, plus internal leaks(blowby etc), to the outlet which is intake vacuum.

The PCV is a metered restriction, note that there are many different PCV air flow specifications. Some flow much more air than others. The oil mist that collects in intakes or PCV hoses etc, are tough to eliminate. The spot where the PCV draws air in from the engine is the big key there. Some lower intakes have very poor baffling to protect the PCV, others are much better. The intake valley is the best place to pull air with less oil mist, but it's a tight space still to get just air.
 






I highly recommend using a PCV catch can between the valve and the vacuum source. That will keep most of the oil from being pulled into the engine, lessening the likelihood of predetonation, and keeping the valves and piston tops cleaner.

APR Universal Catch Can and PCV Block-off Plate
 






this is what 230 worth of a/n fittings and 3 carb stud kits looks like

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sad thing is i may have to order more later.
talked to my buddy with the garage. not looking good for me to work on evil while im off work. oh well, i'll keep gathering parts until then.
 












that is one clean stove!!
 












I love pictures of car parts!
a/n fittings look so cool under the hood, and on the stove!
 












Is she busy right now?

i would ask, but wasnt a friendly break up. especially when i had the last one up by dropping her things off and placing her soaking wet lingerie on the windshield of her truck when it was -35C with the wind or if you like -31F for her to deal with in the morning.
 






:thumbsup:
 






putting these numbers as a reference. it seems like trying to find bearing and seal numbers for eaton m series snouts are a guarded secret because your get overcharged for them if you dont know where to look
snout bearing
6204c3
6303c3
seal (not necessary part number but measurements) 20x47x7
 






I assume that is for a M122?
 






I assume that is for a M122?

from what I can tell, that’s for all m series snouts. The bearing numbers I did get from stegmier however
 






That man is a supercharger genius.
His name is really hard to spell though. LOL
Stiegemeier

The black supercharger on my 98 2 door has had a stage 7 or 8 port and the snake bite modification where he puts overdrive gears in the snout. It even has a modification that would allow me to liquid cool the snout, if I hooked it up. LOL
I love his work!
 












That man is a supercharger genius.
His name is really hard to spell though. LOL
Stiegemeier

The black supercharger on my 98 2 door has had a stage 7 or 8 port and the snake bite modification where he puts overdrive gears in the snout. It even has a modification that would allow me to liquid cool the snout, if I hooked it up. LOL
I love his work!

I liked him too, the one time I spoke with him about a KB 2.4 blower. I saw one on eBay that was very used, for parts, for $400. I asked him the possibility of rebuilding such a used KB, and he said he'd pass. Those 2.4's are very very rare, and the main parts are unique enough that if they were hurt, he couldn't replace them. There is a 3.6 version on eBay now that didn't sell the first time for $1250 I think it was(the listing is back up). That's way too big for me, but maybe someone else is game.
 






He does gears in the shout or on the rotors?

From the factory they are on the rotors. His snake bite kit changes things around a bit and gears will end up on the snout.
He had pictures of his stuff on his site but I don't know if they are still there. He may have taken them down so people don't steal his ideas?
I have no complaints about the one in my truck.
 



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throttle body adapter arrived the other day

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80108063_2733793100021815_6105979044208050176_n.jpg


so after seeing just how much ford motorsport cable throttlebodys are, i am going to reuse the acufab i have.

nothing new to me making a adapter. this will be the 3 or 4th one ive done.
so the opening for the stock elbow is around 2 1/2 tall by 5 or something wide. the throttlebody is a 75mm or 3 1/2. had a place that laser cuts metal near me make both ends for me. bought some 3 1/2 tube so it will fit without any problems on the throttlebody side.
the elbow side, different story.

79852371_3287421104663358_8523198282053189632_n.jpg


what i am going to do is flatten the pipe down to fit inside of the collar if you like to call it. which will also be easier said then done because i know its not going to crush completely flat on both sides at the same time. once i have it fitting, i am going to make a cut on the sides to open it up.

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once that is done, i am going to take the 2 1/2 inch pipe and weld it to the sides to meet up in a "Y" shape.
im doing a crap shoot with this because i dont know how much space i have to put the throttle body on, and the maf before it hits the abs pump or anything else. if the abs has to go, 410fortune emailed me how to take it out and still have brakes. however if i get lucky, it will land someplace like 4pointslow's and wont have to remove it and give the mobile vehicle inspection unit another reason to try to take it off the road if it ever comes to that.
 






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