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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Following along. Looking good ! I'd like to have a 2 post lift somewhere but are out of space. My 4 poster is great for many things but I can't lift bodies off of frames with it. I'm sure we'll see yours running soon !
Broke the t case apart. I didn’t realize it was a TOD. I don’t HAVE to use that wire if I don’t want to, right? The manual shifter will still give me 4wd when I want it? (Seems like I had one of these in a previous explorer but I can’t remember back that far.). Anyway, not too much wear. Looks like the front output shaft may have spun in the rear case bearing or something. Not sure if I need to replace bearings or just put the case saver shim spacer doohickey in it and run with it.
Well hello again, its been a few year! Back to taking a stab at this crazy adventure, finally collecting parts, and a have a few questions. I found a 4R70 and a 4406 with the VSS in the tail shaft, I think it was a 2000. I got the linkage and boot, but the knob was missing. Im getting ready...
I have been researching the differences between explorer and expedition/f-150 four wheel drive systems in the hopes of discovering the key to unlocking the mechanically locked four wheel drive of the 4406 transfer case. In this research I have found that between the 3 position switch system of...
www.explorerforum.com
Your t case is a 4406m or manual shift, it is not the "control trac" torque on demand unit.
It does contain the brown wire which is used to "ramp up" the speed of the front input shaft in the F150 or expedition
You do not need to hook up this wire, you can easily shift from 2wd to 4hi by pulling the lever any time you wish under 45mph
The TOD control trac 4406 is a completely different animal
There are 3 4406 t cases:
The 4406m
the 4406e (2wd, 4hio, 4low electronic shift)
the and 4406TOD or control trac case which has auto4, 4x4 and 4low, no rwd setting
The TOD case would require a control module, such as the v6 gem or a stand alone controller you build
I have installed several 4406m and 4406e behind the v8 in rangers and explorers
To get the 4406e to work (2wd, 4hi, 4 low) we can simply use the "motorolla box" which is a stand alone 4x4 control module found in many fords including the 02+ ranger, F150 and expedition
I do have a 4406tod in the shop a custom purchased for his v8 conversion and then realized he had purchased the wrong case. I have looked into making a controller for it, it is quite possible thanks to some of the dudes on this forum many years ago. The TOD case has two additional speed sensors and never truly gives you RWD, only AUTO4wd
4406 transfer case swap getting electric to work updated with pics!! Edited, started 4406 swap going electric, building own relay bank to control shift motor utilizing stock ford dash switch to control motor will look awesome completely stock and for those going manual for fear of the...
www.explorerforum.com
interesting module here, I'm still wondering if it would control the TOD case
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So last night I set out to clean the grime off the top side of the chassis since it's sitting in front of the shop and I'm waiting on parts. I forgot to cover up the gas tank openings.... Have no idea how much water got in the tank, but I'm positive SOME did.
This is the other case I got from the JY a couple weeks ago. I’ve got a controller and the harnesses to go with it.
EDIT: I don't have any speed sensors on this case, so that means it's just a 4406e. So for anyone searching for "How do I know if I have a 4406 TOD," like I was earlier, you'll have at least one extra speed sensor for the front output shaft.
Thinking about rear axles. My intention was to put a helical gear top limited slip in it. But looking at funds right now I’m gonna have to hold off on that. So when I look at the axle that I’ve got right now, it’s a 355 open. However, the mounty has the 373 limited slip. And I can only assume it’s a factory. So the question is how much does it cost to rebuild or to put clutches in the factory limited slip and how does it perform compared to one of the helical types? And another thing that comes to mind is the V8 had the traction bars. So I’m already looking at swapping housings so I can get the traction bars without having to do any welding on another axle housing.
Well, the funds are only tight for now because of the expenses I’ve put into everything so far, and I’ll be needing new tires soon too-priority over grip. But how does the factory LSD work over the long term with wearing parts in a DD, as compared to a helical gear LSD? I don’t plan on off-roading in this thing YET, anyway. That’s what the bronco is for.
Thinking about rear axles. My intention was to put a helical gear top limited slip in it. But looking at funds right now I’m gonna have to hold off on that. So when I look at the axle that I’ve got right now, it’s a 355 open. However, the mounty has the 373 limited slip. And I can only assume it’s a factory. So the question is how much does it cost to rebuild or to put clutches in the factory limited slip and how does it perform compared to one of the helical types? And another thing that comes to mind is the V8 had the traction bars. So I’m already looking at swapping housings so I can get the traction bars without having to do any welding on another axle housing.
if funds are tight yes run the stocks. however, if there is a little room, id reccomend maybe the ford racing clutches m4700c pn. have it sitting on my table right now! got it from Cj pony on a fathers day sale for 150 with tax included. if you substitute a steel for a friction in each side they are supposed to lock up much harder. will update when new clutches are in and i have first hand experience with them or go no slip, have one for sale here actually, those are good too! was going to use that, but ended up deciding on rebuilding the LS instead.
cost wise its 150 for me for the parts, from jeg or summit i cant imagine i being above 200, then a gasket fluid and fric mod for maybe another 50? so say 200-250? its not something worth paying to do imo.
performance wise my understanding is they do the same thing, LIMIT (not stop) slip, so i imagine they are comparable. however, helical will outlast a clutch, and may have a slightly better bias than a clutch, but cant confirm.
Alright. My shim/case saver/thingy won't be here till Monday. I need this explorer running ASAP. What's wrong with using Quick steel epoxy or JB Weld to hold the oil pump still??
I've applied some heat to the ring hoping it would swell and fall off. Apparently, I'll have to get the "hot wrench" ahold of it, rather than just a propane torch and 15 minutes of heat??
moretraction.com
or go no slip, have one for sale here actually, those are good too! was going to use that, but ended up deciding on rebuilding the LS instead.
