The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Nope & funny but nope.

It's going to be a while before it's installed and able to be shown. I am the test mule for this fabricated product, and if all goes well, it will be available to purchase for all interested.

All I can say is it is 2nd gen specific, and has rig saving value.

 

[gmanpaint]

Got the new rack from Napa today. They had to order it.

Hoping I can get this done tomorrow before the rains arrive.

I always seem to be under some kind of deadline lately. It's driving me .

Edit: Started thunder storming early this morning (about 12 hrs early). Now the weatherman says rains until Monday.
Looks like a couple hours here & there after work next week on this.

 

[gmanpaint]

Rains stopped about 5 pm, so I went at it. Took me about 3 hours to get it out, and it looks like a crime scene. Lol!

Got to use my Inner TRE tool. Turns out the pass side was about to give up the goods. Silver lining for all this I guess.

Now to figure out how to get that check valve out of the old rack. Tried a pick and a magnet, didn't work.

 

[gmanpaint]

Once again, this rig is fighting me with the small stuff, and this project is on hold until I can figure this out.

I can't get the check valve out of the old rack. I do not see or feel the valve retainer to remove it. I have tried the following with no luck:

Turned over, and tapping the unit with a hammer, in hopes it would fall out.
Plugged the return port and cycled the unit, hoping the fluid pressure would force it out.
Used a pick to feel for the retainer, and pry it out.
Used a magnet to pull it out.

It is sitting at the bottom of the port, and will not budge. It's almost as if the pressure line jammed it into place, and is stuck, but... I can get it to move a tiny bit with a pick.

So, even with my glasses on, if there is a retainer above it, I just can't see it.

The instructions say it HAS to be installed or it can cause failure, and will void the warranty. Then it says if it is damaged it can be omitted. WTF? :scratch:

 

[Turdle]

It looks like the collar comes apart and this is the check valve retainer

 

[gmanpaint]

That's the Inner TRE tool. LOL!

 

[Turdle]

That's the Inner TRE tool. LOL!

ok, wise guy show us the check valve please-

 

[gmanpaint]

ok, wise guy show us the check valve please-

I posted a diagram of it, and a pic of it still inside the rack.

I went back at it with a magnifying glass, and moved it around with a pick. I was able to see the tiny tabs on the retainer sitting on top of the valve. Once I seen that, I knew i could pry on it and remove it. I got it out, crisis is over.

It's hell getting old and going blind.

Ok, in this picture, we have a Inner TRE tool. It comes with multiple size inserts for diff size TRE's. You place the proper size insert on the nut end of the TRE, then slide this tool over the TRE shaft, then over the insert. Then you fasten the insert to the tool by sliding the retainer to lock it. Then a ratchet goes on the end of the tool, to loosen/tighten. Makes it easier then using a wrench and having to move the rack in/out to get at it.

Then if you look next to the tool, you can see the check valve and the damn retainer I fought with. I hope this little bit of info helps someone else searching one day, because it sure would have helped me! LOL!

 

[gmanpaint]

So the Napa rack ain't all that & a bag of chips.

After comparing the old rack & the new rack....

They used the wrong fluid lines and the cooler will not go back on as they are routed as such that the cooler mount isn't anywhere near close to fitting.

Edit: I just bent the lines to make the cooler rack fit. Not that bad a deal after all.

It's completely installed. I just have to fill it with fluids and bleed the air out. Now to figure out which fuse to pull to be able to crank it over without it starting.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Now to figure out which fuse to pull to be able to crank it over without it starting.

unplug mr. coil pack

 

[gmanpaint]

unplug mr. coil pack

Thanks Tim.
Turdle suggested that too, as well as pulling the fuel pump relay.

It worked. I bumped it a few times at first to be sure. It did some weird PCM reset deal and the door locks all went up & down. I went.. Meh, weird a$$ truck.

I bled it as best I could following the instructions, but when I look into the resi afterwards, it has a bit of bubbles on top. Whines a bit too. Tells me there is still air in it, and I have to keep at it some more.

Gotta tell ya, this job really kicked my butt. I am sore all over! I'm glad I did it, but I might bring it to a shop if I have to do it again. I haven't had that much fun in a weekend, since we installed Turdle's engine a year back. LOL!

Napa is closed already and can't bring the core back for my deposit refund. I haven't ate since 9pm last night, and I have been feeding the skeeters. I hope they drop dead from the low blood sugar.

 

[OffTrac]

Gotta tell ya, this job really kicked my butt. I am sore all over! I'm glad I did it, but I might bring it to a shop if I have to do it again.

I did that exact thing last year. I replaced the rack a few years ago and when it went out again last year I decided I really didn't want to do that again at the time. I'd be confident to do it again myself but I'd really rather not, lol. I didn't have the problems with the lines, cooler or check valve you had either, so I can only imagine your level of frustration.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

for all the crap i have done on 2nd gens, the rack by far tops the list of "never do i want to do that crap again!" and i even did mine on a lift!
cant you put the front on stands, start the truck and turn from lock to lock? i do it that way, or just drive it and all the air will come out. might take a bit, but it will.

 

[gmanpaint]

for all the crap i have done on 2nd gens, the rack by far tops the list of "never do i want to do that crap again!" and i even did mine on a lift!
cant you put the front on stands, start the truck and turn from lock to lock? i do it that way, or just drive it and all the air will come out. might take a bit, but it will.

I could if I had a working parking brake and a level driveway. LOL!

I just found the Body Lift bracket for the parking brake cable, and need to install it. If I had better wheel chocks that would hold the weight on my angled drive, that would help! I leave it in 1st gear with the front on the stands. I'm too afraid to take it out of gear, foot on the brake, and go lock to lock with it.

I will just take it too some parking lot and go lock to lock with it a bunch.

I agree with this job topping the crap list. Like I said earlier, I would rather pull the trans then do this.

 

[gmanpaint]

I did that exact thing last year. I replaced the rack a few years ago and when it went out again last year I decided I really didn't want to do that again at the time. I'd be confident to do it again myself but I'd really rather not, lol. I didn't have the problems with the lines, cooler or check valve you had either, so I can only imagine your level of frustration.

I also had to deal with the coil overs and limit straps. The springs push down on the LCA's, and the straps hold them in place, so the UCA's don't hit the springs and force the C/V axles past the point of safe travel.

Of course the straps partially block the opening in the cross member that you need to slide the rack threw. So I had to jack the pass side LCA up, hold it with a small stand, remove the strap, so I can manipulate the rack.

Oh, did I mention the 3/8" thick skid plate is about 75 lbs, and is a royal PITA to remove /install by myself? LOL!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Congrats on the finished project, good job.


BTW, what kind of wheels do you have that they take that very odd "ET wheel" lug nut? I ask since I'm searching for the best lug nut to make fit my new/used wheels(cut to fit the lug nuts).

 

[gmanpaint]

Congrats on the finished project, good job.


BTW, what kind of wheels do you have that they take that very odd "ET wheel" lug nut? I ask since I'm searching for the best lug nut to make fit my new/used wheels(cut to fit the lug nuts).

Thanks!

Wheels: American Racing alum's.

Lug nuts:
I got them from a custom wheel shop. They called em "Mag wheel acorn lugs". Paid $30 for the complete set. I could use a new set. I remove these wheels so much that they show the abuse, that the impact has done to them over the years.

I wanted them to help with the deep holes on the aluminum wheels. The long shank on them, go deeper into the wheel hole, as standard lugs just sit flush to the wheels surface.

I also installed hubcentric spacers for a nice tight fit to the hubs.
I can't run the centercaps that came with the wheels anymore because of this tho. They won't fit anymore.

 

[gmanpaint]

So the E-brake cable riser bracket I found in my misc bin, is not what I thought it was.

I searched PA website to see if I could just buy it, but it is not listed separately. So I emailed them and asked if I could, and within 10 mins I was talking to the same person that replied to my email on the phone. It will be here by this Friday. I thought that was a pretty cool service response time.

Now if I could only get that same kind of service, from a fast food worker, demanding $15/hr min wage! LOL!

 

[OffTrac]

So the E-brake cable I found in my misc bin, is not what I thought it was.

I searched PA website to see if I could just buy it, but it is not listed separately. So I emailed them and asked if I could, and within 10 mins I was talking to the same person that replied to my email on the phone. It will be here by this Friday. I thought that was a pretty cool service response time.

Now if I could only get that same kind of service, from a fast food worker, demanding $15/hr min wage! LOL!

Hey! They can guarantee your food by Friday, too.

 

[gmanpaint]

Hey! They can guarantee your food by Friday, too.

True, but will it be what I ordered?