The Black Hole | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!
Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

I caught Eric with a cutting wheel, going to town on the rig!

th_8-2-2009021.jpg


We got the 4.56 gears installed. Wow, My hats off to all that helped out!
Turdle
DkChrist
techieman33
inh
Mark

You guys were great. Thanks a ton!

Also Jon was able to get my brake line situated, the line extension is in place, and system bled.

The sport trac T-bars were powder coated a chrome/silver, clear coated, and installed.
100_3385.jpg

The rear Rock crusher diff cover was Re-done to its formal glory as well.

Chris (Inh), made me a CB bracket for the whip antennae and it got some powder as well.

Only thing on the list that didn't get done was my Vac gauge install. I will work on that B/4 trip to Ouray.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I must say, I really like your truck greg. It's turning out quite nice =] Let us know how you like the gears and sport track torsion bars once you get some time on them =] Then let me know when I can help you get a front coilover conversion fone ;)
 






Very good, and try a sawzall for cutting body work. That's how I cut my two bodies in half.
 






Well, I called the shop who installed the Locker back in March. I explained to the manager that we had the rear diff apart, and found huge chunks of LS clutch fragments from when it blew up. They installed a open carrier(used from them) and my locker (I supplied) for the tune of $325.00.

He didnt remember me or my rig. I had to explain to him what they did, and when they did it. He was bewildered to try to recall the job, I figure they have done a lot of bizz since I was there, no biggie.

His reply to me was this," We probably didnt clean it out before or after the install. To many people want work done for as cheap as they can get it. So we just worry about the install of the parts you want installed. If you wanted it cleaned out, you should have requested that we do so, it would have been an extra charge to do so."

Here is what I asked," Do you mean to tell me, you knew a LS clutch pack was blown up, and you didnt think you should have cleaned it out, or inspected for fragments before installing my new parts? You sold me a open carrier to install my locker, cause you told me about the blown LS carrier in it. Is it common practice to not clean it out? By the way, you never suggested cleaning it out for an additional fee. I would think that is a normal part of the job."

His reply," I am pretty sure we did, you just don't remember. We just do it this way to save people money, it's common practice."

"I don't think you ever asked me about this." I responded.

"Yes We did, not my fault you cant remember!" He yells.

I hung up on him right there and than. I am so pissed that he called me a liar, I am about to go over there and break his nose! He couldn't remember the job, but he remembered telling me about cleaning it out for extra charge? WTF!

Oh, and I even supplied the synthetic fluids for the job!

This is some of what we found inside.


shardsfromLSclutchinreardiff.JPG

fragmentsfromreardiff.JPG
 






Wow man, that is some bullcrap right there. Time to let the BBB know. Whats the name of this place so others know to stay away?
 






























For those interested in doing a gear swap, here is a couple of short videos showing how to "Grind the gear". This grinding of a couple teeth allows the cross shaft pin to slide into place. This way you dont have to spend $50 on a notched cross shaft pin. The cross shaft pin being installed is a "Hardened Shaft". The gears are 4.56, anything over 4.10 needs either a notched pin, or the teeth ground.

th_100_3328.jpg

th_100_3327.jpg
 






Also of note, notched pins tend to break ;)
 






Well, I had a ABS issue to deal with since the gear install. The light came on, on my way out to KS. We found a bad front sensor wire. When I returned home(light still on), I replaced the hub with the bad sensor wire. The light remained on. Puzzled by this, I tested the resistance of all the abs sensors. The rear was reading low, so I got a new one. Light was still on. Now, I am getting really baffled. I took the old & new sensor to Ford service. They tested both new & old sensors for me. Both were good.

Thinking about this for a bit, I came to realize my rear diff is full of metal shavings from the new gears being broke in. The metal was attaching itself to the sensor magnet throwing it off. I cleaned it, reinstalled it, and it works. Light is now off. It will prolly return again, till I am done with the break in period of gears, and fluid is changed.

Lots of time, and aggravation with this. I am thankful it was not anything else.
 






What a difference gears make!
I went to SMORR today, to do a little trailing. I needed to get some miles on my front gears. I took it easy for the most part:D

I have the miles I need on the rear gears, and I cant see how I can get 500 miles on my fronts to tell you the truth. It is going to take a year to get that many in 4x4 low! After 5 hours, I had only put on 20 miles.

Any ways, here are some pics screwing around on a set of tractor tires. It just walked up with no tire slip, and low rpms, I was amazed. I really wanted to push it harder, but I figured I better not. I will drain & clean the rear diff in the morning, add new synthetic gear oil. The fronts, I am not sure when I will do. Still have hundreds of miles left to go!

BH cresting.JPG
100_3386.JPG
100_3375.JPG
Smorr belly shot.JPG
100_3387.JPG
 






Can you not cheat a little by putting it in 4WD when you are on straight highway?
 












Can you not cheat a little by putting it in 4WD when you are on straight highway?

I have the auto control trac, so the axle is not live. I have to be in low range for the gears to mesh and run. 4 high will only work if the rears are slipping. I was told to reverse the vac disco controls, so it is live all the time, but I am kinda nervous doing that. I would have to disconnect the front drive shaft. If I knew more people who have done that and had no ill effects from it, I would try it.
 


















If you put it in 4auto tho, then the axle will be live only when your in 2wd the axle is in disconnect position.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If you put it in 4auto tho, then the axle will be live only when your in 2wd the axle is in disconnect position.

Hmmm, if that's true, will my front drive shaft be turning as well? Or does the clutch in the t-case only apply power to the drive shaft when the GEM detects rear wheel slippage? I am not sure of the action I guess, front shaft gets power, or the axles get connected when slippage is detected. I would tend to think it is the drive shaft, but since I am not 100%, I don't want to take a chance of overheating my t-case.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top