The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, Dealer swapped it out like 10 years ago.

 

[Turdle]

Late to the party, I was out of town in KC

My truck has 12v to ground on both sides of brake switch connected, and 12 only on one side disconnected. The brake switch is normally closed with 12v at all times which is why ford added the fuse in the brake switch recall.

In other words this is normal. I think the brake switch, or rather cruise control brake off circuit still has a ground crossed --- or just missing ( needs a pin re located)

 

[gmanpaint]

Late to the party, I was out of town in KC

My truck has 12v to ground on both sides of brake switch connected, and 12 only on one side disconnected. The brake switch is normally closed with 12v at all times which is why ford added the fuse in the brake switch recall.

In other words this is normal. I think the brake switch, or rather cruise control brake off circuit still has a ground crossed --- or just missing ( needs a pin re located)

Thanks for checking yours Jon. Glad I didn't go get a new switch today, ya saved me a few bucks there.

Makes sense the fuse was added, in case the brake fluid leaked into the switch, and caused a short with a spark, that ignites.

So were back to the faulty ground being sent from the BPP to Cruise module. I really do not think I am pulling the dash for this, if it has to come out. At least, not for a long time to come. My back is still broken from doing it last weekend.

 

[KurtECV]

BPP pin 1 (BK-Ground) is good last i checked.
BPP pin 2 (R/LG- to T/LB at servo), we know that circuit is intact because your getting power to it with the pedal pressed... that power is coming from BPP pin 3 (BR)

If you have good ground at pin 1 but no ground at pin 2 (brake pedal released) then i believe the fault is in the BPP they sent you.

Run a jumper from pin 1 (BK) to pin 2 (R/LG). DONT PRESS THE PEDAL WITH THE JUMPER WIRE INSTALLED, YOULL BLOW FUSE 9

Then check for ground at T/LB at the servo.... IF you do have ground there, then the switch is bad, thats where id put my money.

 

[KurtECV]

 

[gmanpaint]

There was no continuity found on 1003 (fuse 10) with pedal in rest position, which means no ground was sent to the cruise module from the BPP. There is voltage being sent to it with pedal pressed. I am also leaning at the BPP being bad, BUT... We still don't know what all was changed in the dash harness modifications. Waiting until the installer gets back to me about this, before I do anything else with this circuit. Might be a day, might be a year. Who knows.

 

[KurtECV]

There was no continuity found on 1003 (fuse 10) with pedal in rest position, which means no ground was sent to the cruise module from the BPP.

According to the diagram, there should be no continuity to ground on circuit 1003, if there was, fuse 10 would blow with the truck in RUN. there should only be power on that circuit.

 

[gmanpaint]

My bad, it was the TN/LB wire I tested for continuity to ground. Sorry, too many diagrams, wire colors, all swirling around my head working on all these different circuits lately.

 

[KurtECV]

My bad, it was the TN/LB wire I tested for continuity to ground. Sorry, too many diagrams, wire colors, all swirling around my head working on all these different circuits lately.

I know the feeling when I get a lightning strike rig in lol. Got two this week, one lady was driving when it happened.

Entrance (that was the roof antenna)

Exit (Left rear wheel)

 

[gmanpaint]

WOW! Tan to brown seats? Lol

 

[KurtECV]

I spoke to her when she got to the dealership. Said there was a loud crack and a white flash, then everything in the car died and she knew what happened. she said she felt a little buzz in her hands but that was it. No airbag deployment or anything.. she got lucky

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah she did. The noise alone, would have made me and the seat one entity.

So I removed the battery today. I installed the leads for the float charger, to the cables. This float charger also has the clamps (can use one or the other), so I have it on the bench charging now. It was low, and only at 11.9v. Too much sitting, not enough running.

While it was out, I decided to remove the battery tray. A while back, I tried to install a new hold down, and the long skinny bolt snapped in half, and left the post stuck in the tray threads. Much easier to work on with the tray removed. After getting it backed out, I searched my parts bin for another hold down. I found the small block with the bolt, but the bolt was much larger than the stock threads. I realized that threaded part in the plastic tray is actually a thick block of metal incorporated into the plate that holds it to the tray. There is no way I could get my hand under it to use a nut to hold this block with, so....

I drilled it out with a 9/32 bit, and tapped it to the bolt size. Oddly, that bolt is an M8x1.25. But, whatev's, it's more beef for now.

Once I find an aftermarket steel battery tray that works for AGM's in this truck, (other than Optima's), I will swap it out. This will suffice for now tho.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anybody got any ideas on how to move the fuel lines by the fuel filter? I need them tucked in tighter to the frame, at the 90* turn. lol

They are in the way of the Atlas transfercase. The larger bottom line (not sure if that is the return or not) is almost touching the case. I want to clock this case higher, but can't due to those damn lines. Lifting them higher won't help with clocking higher either.

The case was nowhere near these lines, and sat higher with the 4.0 & M5OD. There was a nice 1" gap between the skid and the case before. Now with the 5.0/auto swap, the skid hits the case 1/2" before it hits the frame rails. To get the skid back on, I had to use washers between the skid and frame at the bolts, to drop it.

I can have a custom trans cross member built, to raise the trans a few inches as I have 4.5" gap between the body and the case right now. It might allow me to clock the case higher, and clear those lines at the same time. But man, that's gonna be a bummer to make. This is what will most likely have to happen here. ahhhhh..... chit.

 

[KurtECV]

Those look like just retaining clips from the first picture... wonder if you have enough wiggle room to push them to the right (in the picture)

 

[gmanpaint]

It looks like one clip ( I could be wrong) made to hold all the lines there. I think I am just going to have to have a custom cross member built to raise the trans up 2-3".

I won't have to clock the case higher this way, but it would be nice if I could. It would move the shifter rods more to the center, and away from my leg. They are maxed out to the center with the case clocked as is (30*).

 

[Turdle]

what about the front drive shaft angle going wonky if you reclock?

 

[gmanpaint]

So I did a little digging around with the trans mounts on this thing. I also talked to vroomzoomboom a bit, and he helped me understand a few things I was missing out on.

I didn't even stop to think that the 4.0 & 5.0 trans mounts are different. The 5.0 mount is much shorter in height. The bolts to the trans are differently spaced. The Atlas is also much heavier than the 1354/4405 cases are.

My options as of right now (that I can think of) is to:
1) Build a tube/plate cross member myself, and use a stock 5.0 mount.
2) Modify the stock cross member to use a Mustang mount, that looks about the same height as a 4r/5r mount.

Using the Mustang 5.0 mount, all I need to do is weld a 1/4" plate to the top, fill weld the old bolt holes, and drill new bolt holes. It would hopefully gain 1.5" in height this way. Would most likely use a poly mount over rubber, even tho I prefer rubber.

As far as it being farther to the dr side now, I'm not sure if that's because the existing mount is bad (as Turdle suggested to me earlier), or if the engine mounts are off a hair, and it multiplied a bunch at the case end.

Jon, If I did clock it higher, I think the front dble C shaft will handle that angle change just fine. I want to see if just lifting it higher will help first. Getting this case up, over & away from those fuel lines is what I'm more concerned about. If I can get the clearance I want by lifting it, I won't have to clock it, and won't have to worry about the front driveline.

Last thing to worry about is the exhaust. Not sure if it would even allow the tail section to be raised that much. It is fairly tight & tucked in for ground clearance as is. The manifolds might say, umm... No, I don't think so buddy.

It would be nice to be able to just adjust the engine mounts to shift it back to center, and simple lift the tail section where I want it, and not worry about anything else. Yeah, Haha, like that would happen.

 

[Turdle]

well, as it turns out I can tell when my trans mount has gone because when I turn right the rear drive shaft ( U joint) taps the gas tank so if that helps. when the trans mount is good There is very little clearance there. In fact there is a plastic cover thing that has to be trimmed.

 

[gmanpaint]

I will find out soon enough to the condition of the existing mount. Going to unbolt it, and Jack the trans up to see what's going on. They are cheap enough to replace, so I will get a new one on there and see what's what.

 

[CDW6212R]

So I did a little digging around with the trans mounts on this thing. I also talked to vroomzoomboom a bit, and he helped me understand a few things I was missing out on.

I didn't even stop to think that the 4.0 & 5.0 trans mounts are different. The 5.0 mount is much shorter in height. The bolts to the trans are differently spaced. The Atlas is also much heavier than the 1354/4405 cases are.

My options as of right now (that I can think of) is to:
1) Build a tube/plate cross member myself, and use a stock 5.0 mount.
2) Modify the stock cross member to use a Mustang mount, that looks about the same height as a 4r/5r mount.

Using the Mustang 5.0 mount, all I need to do is weld a 1/4" plate to the top, fill weld the old bolt holes, and drill new bolt holes. It would hopefully gain 1.5" in height this way. Would most likely use a poly mount over rubber, even tho I prefer rubber.

As far as it being farther to the dr side now, I'm not sure if that's because the existing mount is bad (as Turdle suggested to me earlier), or if the engine mounts are off a hair, and it multiplied a bunch at the case end.

Jon, If I did clock it higher, I think the front dble C shaft will handle that angle change just fine. I want to see if just lifting it higher will help first. Getting this case up, over & away from those fuel lines is what I'm more concerned about. If I can get the clearance I want by lifting it, I won't have to clock it, and won't have to worry about the front driveline.

Last thing to worry about is the exhaust. Not sure if it would even allow the tail section to be raised that much. It is fairly tight & tucked in for ground clearance as is. The manifolds might say, umm... No, I don't think so buddy.

It would be nice to be able to just adjust the engine mounts to shift it back to center, and simple lift the tail section where I want it, and not worry about anything else. Yeah, Haha, like that would happen.

I'll vote for a new trans cross member, from Brian if we can give him accurate dimensions of the existing mounting holes etc. The frame mounts are different left to right, the member kind of goes angled back from one side to the other. It's not a simple straight cross member that is symmetric. Brian has mentioned he might make them, but demand and he knows they are a little odd shaped, plus the Mustang urethane part choice. The best I think would be the shortest so the urethane thickness if the least(they may all be virtually the same). I was planning on getting a spare stock cross member, and shipping it to Brian to work with.