Solved Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart

[gary lawson]

That metal debris is more likely metal from the band digging into the drum, you will have to pull this thing out and basically rebuilt it.

View attachment 77724

You will have to buy a new drum, plus high energy band, the old drum will be your core charge, you can a new drum around one hundred and eight bucks but be sure to replace the piston inside , with a new piston kit and springs plus cover ,lock ring

 

[jackrussell]

A4LD low/reverse band adjustment

I'm getting ready to rebuild the valve body on my A4LD in my 1991 Ranger to correct a reverse/low delayed-hard shift problem. In addition to adding the Transgo kit and new fluid and filter how do I adjust the low/reverse band since there is no external adjusting screw?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The low/reverse band is not adjustable.

 

[JK080]

I'm getting ready to rebuild the valve body on my A4LD in my 1991 Ranger to correct a reverse/low delayed-hard shift problem. In addition to adding the Transgo kit and new fluid and filter how do I adjust the low/reverse band since there is no external adjusting screw?

If there is a big spring under the low reverse servo leave it out, it will help with that reverse delay. They quit using that spring in the later versions.

 

[jackrussell]

Low/Reverse servo spring

If there is a big spring under the low reverse servo leave it out, it will help with that reverse delay. They quit using that spring in the later versions.

Do you mean that Ford quit using the spring, or that Transgo has quit including the spring in their A4LD kit?
Does this have anything to do with adding a fifth check ball in the valve body rebuild?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The A4LD had this spring. Ford stopped using them in the later 4R & 5R series.

 

[jackrussell]

Low/reverse servo/5th check ball

BB, Thanks for the servo spring information. I agree.
Also, do you know what the purpose of adding a fifth check ball to the valve body is? (I read a forum somewhere to do that).
Thanks for your guidance on this.

Tom.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check balls perform like check valves. They allow fluid to pass in one direction, then block the flow of fluid when it passes in the opposite direction. The valve body kits with a 5th ball recommend drilling a hole in the separator plate when the extra check ball is used.

 

[wrightyonline]

Probably a silly question but does band adjustment need to be done with the transmission out only, or can I do the adjustment with the transmission still In My truck, I'm planing to do my transmission oil and filter in the next couple of weeks and was thinking I would check out the adjustment while under there if I can do it with the tranny in place, jim

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Yes, it can be done with the tranny in the truck.

 

[wrightyonline]

Thanks albi, that's exactly the answer I was hoping for !

 

[jackrussell]

Band adjustment

The low/reverse band is not adjustable.

Since the low/reverse band is not adjustable and I have a problem with the A4LD in my 1991 Ranger-- delayed and hard clunk shift into reverse, and also delayed shift into low when first starting. All other functions work ok.(this is a 4x2).
I will change the transmission fluid and filter and put in a Transgo shift kit, and a new modulator as soon as all the parts arrive. I will also install a transmission pan drain, just in case!
What else should I consider doing?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Get the TransTec Viton D ring kit.

 

[jackrussell]

D ring kit

Thanks BB, Ordered it.

 

[therinken]

Shift Link removal

I've scoured this thread for any references to removing the shift link so i can fit the torque wrench on the stud ... apparently everybody is either doing this with the transmission off the vehicle or knows something I don't.
I've seen both the idea of using a claw-foot attachment and a vague reference to pulling the shift link off the ball at the end (which seems like it will break the plastic holder).
Anyhow, I'm all ready to go and can't figure out how to get the darn thing out of the way... I know I'm not the only one with this trouble, others with a similar problem have either given up or never returned to the thread to update there progress... so, it would be nice if the solution to this could be added to the sticky... heck, if I figure it out myself I'll post a follow-up on my solution ...

 

[therinken]

Shift Link Removal for Dummies

OK, for all those mystified over the finer details of getting this job done ... here are a few more tips that I found by trial and error.

Indispensable Tools

• WD-40/PB Blaster
• Hydraulic Floor Jack
• 6 Ton JackStand
• Serpentine Belt Tool
• 3/8 Socket @ 12 pt.
• 13 mm Standard socket
• 13 mm ratcheting combo wrench
• 19 mm ratcheting combo wrench
• in/lb torque wrench
• Standard socket wrench
• 2 new locking nuts

Serpentine Belt Tool??? What for??? Well, as I see it, this job is first and foremost: getting the shifting link out of the way. There may be other ways to do this, but I found that a serpentine belt tool is the least frustrating. Why? Because it can hold a socket and still have a low profile to slide behind the linkage. The shifting link is secured to the transmission housing with two 13 mm bolts. And, if your truck is old-ish, then those bolts (and the locking nuts) will be difficult to break free. With the Serpentine belt tool you have a low profile and a long arm for better torquing power. And, because the belt tool has a long arm you'll need to jack up your truck a bit and secure it on a heavy duty stand. Do this and you'll have all the free access you need to get busy on the stud/locking nuts for adjusting your bands.

After that you can follow the sticky guidelines on pg.1 to get the job complete!!

After all was said and done, though, I wish I had a 19 mm ratcheting combo wrench to loosen/tighten the locking nut. Its a tight space even with the shifting link out of the way and it would have been really nice to ratchet instead of getting a 1/8 turn before having to re-maneuver the wrench back into place.

Well, anyhow, I hope this saves somebody's day ... it personally took me countless trips to autozone/o'reillys/Home Depot/Lowes/Harbor Freight before I zoned in on the right tools for the job.

If I had known from the get-go what I needed to have before getting my dumb-ass into this, it would have been a 45 min - 1 hr job easy. So, give yourself a break, take a few of these tips, save yourself a buck or two and make it a pleasant Sunday afternoon tune-up.
Cheers.

 

[03lincoln]

A flex head wrench will help out too. I didn't have one at the time but was able to do the job with standard tools, it just took a lot longer.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_338386-25428-85707_0__?productId=3387680&Ntt

 

[BenHolliday]

Adjusted OD band and it's now shifting 8 to 10 mph sooner than it was. Hopefully I wont feel a delayed shift for another long time.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Which band is which on the A4LD? I have mine in a 1991 Explorer. Am I right that the OD band needs to be 3.5 turns and the other is just 2 turns?

I have a clunk in 1-2 and 3-4 if I let off the gas right before it shifts. If I keep on the gas, it's smooth. Particularly annoying when going downhill. I'm kind of hoping the person that rebuilt the trans before might not have known about the difference between the 3.5 turns and 2 turns and that maybe shifting will be even smoother with them properly adjusted.

I have an assortment of regular tools but no inch pound torque wrench. Would I be able to do the job or would it be better (cheaper than buying the tools?) off to have a transmission shop take care of it?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since it was previously rebuilt, the rebuilder most likely installed the single wrap band since the double wrap band is obsolete. You will need a torque wrench to adjust it, so you will need to obtain one prior to performing this type of repair. Harbor Freight has inexpensive 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrenches. Since you've never done this type of adjustment, you should have a transmission shop check the modulator, kickdown cable, and the two bands. Check WWW.ATRA.Com for a shop in your area. The overdrive band is in the front of the transmission near the bellhousing, and the intermediate band is in the middle of the transmission.