Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think that's a matching picture to one of the WP's I mentioned. That's just wrong to see people faking an OEM part and the box.

Edit, I have that same Ford WP and box. It may have come from Rock Auto, I'm not sure. But I bought one from them last year, knowing I had another one someplace. I found them both when I was getting ready for my radiator project, and don't recall which is which.

 

[Dono]

Well, the flowkoolers are on backorder till the 16th of next month, and the motorcrafts are on backorder till the 6th of next month. It sounds like Summit is going to send me a motorcraft and refund the difference. This is probably the best route (Making the general, and probably poor, assumption the motorcraft unit is actually motorcraft USA made).

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds like the right choice. The seals are the most important items anyway, if the manufacturing is quality otherwise.

That Flowkooler unit might be the best, but the parts have to be assembled well. You might be able to make use of that discard unit, but only if you can rework it without hurting the seals.

 

[4pointslow]

I learned years ago that people were making fake or counterfeit parts for AC/Delco.
I believe there was a news report on it too.
They even tried to make the boxes look legit but you could see that there was a difference between the real AC Delco and the fake.
This "Motorcraft" box you posted reminds me of what I saw back then.

Makes me want to report them.

 

[Dono]

Here's what I think I'll be getting:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mof-pw343

It turns out they want the defective flowkooler pump back. At least I only have to pay to ship it to a depot within Canada. Its still ****ty to have to pay anything when its out of box defective.

 

[4pointslow]

Now that is a great idea.
Getting an OEM water pump from Summit.
You can probably trust that Summit wont have counterfeit parts.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Here you go:

NOS Ford 5.O 302" Water Pump fits 1997-2001 Mercury Mountaineer + Explorer | eBay

Just about all of the new FoMoCo replacement parts for our rigs are Made in China. Even the GMB North America pump is made in china. Finding "New Old Stock" or "New Take Off" is the only way to find the quality parts we were used to buying in the past. Deceptive marketing and sub par manufacturing is now the norm.

Same thing with suspension parts, brake parts, ignition.. It's even hard to find the old US made oem coil packs that have the brown motorcraft label. The new ones with the blue label are china made. Most of the brake rotors made today despite the brand (performance or not) are made in China.

That sucks the FlowKooler came like that. That's lost confidence right there. Makes you wonder if the rest of the pump is up to par. Since the impeller/vane is pressed on to the shaft, wonder if you could attach a dampener pulley on it and move it out a hair the sand down the trouble spot, but there is the chance of damaging it..

Keep an eye out for old school parts and buy them when you can if you plan on keeping a second gen for the long haul. Quality parts are hard enough to find today and will be close to non-existant in the near future.

Hope this helps.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

don probably knows my experience with a no name pump. it was cast wrong. end result it wiped out my one off balancer which i had to send out to get repaired. then because of that, it no longer was in balance with my crank, which also ment ordering a new crank, having it balanced and tearing the motor apart.

 

[Dono]

I gave the flowkooler a shot, even after reading about their quality control issues. Now I know first hand to stay away from them.
I'm not sure is the motorcraft will be USA made or not, It will be interesting to see.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Unless the motorcraft pump has been sitting on the shelf for the last 8 years, it will be made in China.

Like I say.. buy up ALL the old original parts you can for your rigs now. Once they are gone.. that is it.

 

[Dono]

My understanding is that not all China manufactured stuff is substandard, and that typically they will manufacture to any standard, as long as you are willing to pay for it. I'm hoping that paying the premium for the motorcraft unit gives me a high quality unit (as the price should command).

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I agree it may be better quality then the other brands available because FoMoCo still has it's standards, but experience has taught me new Chinese parts aren't as well made as the old US made parts.

Just trying to look out for you.

 

[CDW6212R]

The WP I have as pictured before, from China, at a glance compares the same as the good Ford WP. I had both in my hand deciding which to use, and other than the small Ford emblem on the one, they seem to be very close to the same quality.

The real test is the quality of the seals, and assembly tolerances, everything lines up and fits right etc.

Ford stopped selling the rack and pinions for our trucks, from the previous source, last Fall. I happened to ask about the price of a rebuilt rack. It was about $175, and I loved that, but wanted to wait to decide if I wanted one, two or three. A month later the source and pricing changed. Then it went to around $450, shipping was a lot of that too. It's still similar now, I asked again a couple of weeks ago. I think Ford sold the others on a clearance price, they used to be in the $275 range years ago.

Owning an old used Ford takes a special knack for finding and collecting certain parts.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

So I edited my previous posts (like I do) because this article pretty much sums up all my rambling, incoherent China-bashing..

From 2005..

Ford sources aftermarket parts from China

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Do you have electric fans Dono?

Was think you might be able to install a quality Stewart pump made for SN-95's if you don't need to mount the mechanical fan and have the clearance.

Stewart Components

Came across this thread..
Mustang Water Pump on Explorer

 

[Dono]

I do have a electric fan, but the clearance is still super tight. I'd need to go to some form of offset dual fan setup (contour fans maybe?) to gain clearance at the water pump.

Does that stewart pump stick out further? This is another find that I didn't know about.
Stewart has a great name for quality.

 

[Turdle]

I thought the explorer water pump was "reverse rotation" from Mustang-could be wrong.

 

[CDW6212R]

I do have a electric fan, but the clearance is still super tight. I'd need to go to some form of offset dual fan setup (contour fans maybe?) to gain clearance at the water pump.

Does that stewart pump stick out further? This is another find that I didn't know about.
Stewart has a great name for quality.

willzilla figured out his Meziere WP a while back. I'm not considering doing that, but I think he is a good example of what it takes to do it.

 

[Dono]

Yes, I'm not interested in an electric pump on a daily driver either.
The Steward Mechanical posted seems to ccw rotation (reverse) , just like our trucks.
I did find that it's longer at 4.07" (But I don't know how long a factory unit is until I measure).

I found the pump on summit also. Shipping costs would be less going this route, but I don't think I have room for it with my current fan setup.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/emp-16183

 

[CDW6212R]

I think the pulley used with an SN95(94-95) WP would be critical. The pulley is smooth, but it has to have enough surface rearward more than the Mustangs. The Explorer belt is back more by almost 3/8", the electric pump's pulley evidently has just enough. I can measure the Explorer WP, just a minute...