Ok so finally did alot of stuff I've been wanting to do, since we had a week off for Fall Break. I already had done the rear shocks in the summer, but had more to do now. I bought Bilstein's for the rear, but will wait to install those, because I put in KYB in the summer since Bilstein's were on backorder. So keeping those on the shelf for later.
(KYB Shocks & Struts Excel-G Rear FORD 2017-2013 FORD Explorer - 3440040 × 2)
This week I installed the H&R lowering springs in the rear (pretty easy), and replaced the front struts with Bilstein B6's and new lowering springs. More on that later.
H&R 11-19 Ford Explorer (2WD/4WD) 4 Cyl/V6 Sport Spring - 51630 × 1
Bilstein B6 11-17 Ford Explorer Front Right Twintube Strut Assembly - 22-266620 × 1
Bilstein B6 11-17 Ford Explorer Front Left Twintube Strut Assembly - 22-266637 × 1
I also installed the z36 powerstop brake pads and drilled and slotted rotors. Also painted the calipers red. Didn't try to make them perfect, but they look nice. I bought two cans, but only needed 1 FYI. The brakes and rotors look great and feel great.
Power Stop Front and Rear Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Pad and Rotor Kit K6375-36 Fits 2017 Ford Explorer
VHT SP731 Real Red Brake Caliper Paint Can - 11 oz.
So..... all the drama for me came once I got it all together and went for first test drive. Had major clunking in the front even over small bumps in the road. I didn't have any nice tools to get down in the top hat where the nut on top of the strut is. Everywhere I looked said that if you use an impact and buzz it a few times, then that's enough. HELL NO. I was a bit scared of using the "widow maker" compression brackets for the springs, but after doing this so many times now, I'm not afraid of them lol.
Like I said I have no 22mm (stock was a 21mm nut, but new bilsteins used 22mm) passthrough socket but wish I did. So, on the second try and lots of pain as I'm out of shape and almost 47 years old lol, I decided to compress the springs more than I did before and use vice grips to hold the piston while I tightened it with my impact gun. DON'T FREAK OUT! I know that you aren't supposed to do that, but this was a last resort. SO, I put a microfiber towel on the piston right where the vice grip jaws went, and it didn't scratch them at all. Got everything back together, and then went for the second test drive. STILL SOME CLUNKING but less this time.
Now I'm getting a bit tired and defeated. I figured one more time before having my friend come over to help who is better with cars than me. I took everything back out (struts) and REALLY compressed the springs, and made sure that it was tightened down as far as it could go. Got everything back in and went for the third test drive. Prayed hard just before taking off lol, and finally it's tight and feels great!
I'm typing all this up, so the next person knows to REALLY tighten everything down on the top of the strut, especially when putting in lowering springs. The rod coming out the top is seriously about 3-4 inches high. lol
Also picked up some 22inch Ford Flex rims, and can't wait to clean them up, and get tires for them. Not sure if I have the room after lowering the truck though! lol
Happy modding!
Travis