My latest project: 1970 Dodge Dart 512 C.I. Bracket Racer

Some of you may remember that I used to have a 1972 Dodge Dart which I drag raced.

Well, I got the itch to get back into racing Our new house is only 3 miles from the Speedworld racetrack and I can faintly hear them running the cars from our house. It was just too much for me to bare I haven't been doing much in the way of local fourwheeling, so I thought drag racing would give me something to do on the weekends.

A couple weeks ago I bought a 1970 Dodge Dart off of E-bay. The car was located in New Jersey, a mere 2500 miles from home I decided this was the right car for me mainly because I really needed to get out of the house on my own for a couple weeks and this was just the excuse I needed

The car is going to be stripped and repainted. It will get new quarter panels, at least one rocker, one floorpan, new door hinges, fiberglass hood, bumpers, and most likely trunk lid as well.

The new color will most likely be orange, but it just may end up being red, like my old one. Plans for it include a 650HP, 512 CI, big block Mopar and an automatic transmission. I'm just not sure if it will be from BB or SB or whether or not it will even be a Mopar I plan on ditching the torsion bar front suspension for an aftermarket K member which gives you rack and pinion steering, upgraded brakes, and the choice of coilover shocks or airbag suspension.

The rear end in the car right now is a trussed Mopar 8 3/4", with a three link suspension and coilovers.

 

[Cobraguy]

Whew. Frustrating, but thankful you caught it before disaster. I assume the builder will take care of it pro bono, but are any perks offered to you for the extra hassle you're having to weather for this? It never hurts to ask

It was an honest mistake. Why would you suggest something like that? Do you think that this type of work is always easy and trouble free? These are part of the growing pains all builders go through. Trial and error. Learn and burn. Everyone is now one lesson ahead of the curve and the only thing lost was time and a little gas to haul the engine back to the machinist. If this is the only thing that goes wrong with an entire build like this, Rick can consider himself very lucky. It truly is a labor of love, eh Rick?

 

[Rick]

I agree 100%. Yes it's truly been a labor of love. Even taking it all apart wasn't so bad. I just chalked it up to gaining more experience working with the car and learning how to break it down. Next time it shouldn't take as long to break it down since I learned a few tricks along the way. Biggest one is to leave the driver side header in the car when I pull the motor so I don't have to disconnect the master cylinder in order to drop the header in place.

Yeah I'm frustrated that I couldn't just leave it all together and move on, but I'm not mad at the builder.

 

[Rick]

Pfft... Guess I shouldn't have been so understanding.

First off, I called this morning at 9:15 to make sure someone would be there when I came by with the engine. It's an hour and a half round trip and not something I want to do for nothing. No one answered at 9:15... Left message.

Called back at 10:10. No answer, hung up.

Called back at 11:00. Left message and asked "Is anyone in the shop?" I need to know before I leave here.

Got a call at 11:15... "Sorry I was out all morning, the guys don't answer the phone".

Got to his place just after noon. He doesn't say a word to me when I came in. We went from the back of his shop, through the front doors and he finally said something when we were at my truck. I said "Hi Brian" as soon as I walked in.

We get the motor in the shop and he says "I really couldn't tell anything from the photos you sent since they were taken too close". I said, "Ok let's pop a valve cover and I'll show you". We get the cover off and I show him the four blind holes. He says "Those holes are supposed to drain oil?" "I don't understand why the pushrod holes wouldn't do that". Well... they do, just not enough! DUH!!! 4 - 1/4" holes = the same flow as 1 - 1" hole right??? 4 - 1/4" holes ARE going to drain the head a hell of a lot faster than not having them there at all right?? Not only that, but these holes are lower than the pushrod holes. the oil has to accumulate all the way up to the pushrod holes for them to even begin draining...

Damn, some freakin' people just can't admit when they're wrong. What changed between his "I'm sorry, I'm sorry, yesterday, and his attitude today I have no friggin' clue.:thumbdwn:

I felt fine bringing it back to him, that is until now. Now I feel sick!

 

[gmanpaint]

Sheesh, what a difference a day makes. The guy had time to think about since you had first called. He is most likely mad at himself and embarrassed. I think after a little cooling off, all will be right in the cosmos again.

 

[Turdle]

^^yeah, My bet is he was mad at himself and you were just there to absorb it a little. At least I hope so.

 

[sparksafly'n]

I hate it when someone can fess up!! I just hope he was mad at himself,and he made you feel bad about it. OH yeah! Wish I had your skills or car rocks!!

 

[Cobraguy]

Well, I may pull back my original assessment of his abilities as well Rick. Having a lake of oil before it starts draining is not good...

If you end up going elsewhere for future work, I highly recommend these guys. Ask for Ray. They build some very high end stuff...Pro Stock, Super Stock, boats, etc. Ray has an engine building room that's off limits to everyone, so you can imagine how serious he takes your particular build.

Basko Engine Service
743 North Golden Key Street
Gilbert, AZ 85233
480-967-1956

 

[Rick]

I've heard good things about Basko. Trouble is it's a 3 hour round trip, and that's without traffic.

 

[Rick]

Just heard from the machine shop. They've got the head gaskets and the motor is going back together today

 

[olskool reddevil]

priming

I would sugest if you wanted to ask to be there when he primes the engine. My engine builder asks his customers if they want to be present when he primes. Gives you a nice piece of mind.

 

[rookieshooter]

Great news
Your most likely running a roller cam?
But just in case your running a push rod flat tappet engine. Ask your builder about using oil with enough ZDDP additives in it. You could wipe the cam easily, especially with high valve spring pressure. Most all good racing oil still has ZDDP in it, even if Government mandated the lowering of it in modern oils.

In fact my last high valve spring pressure push rod flat tappet engine that I built a couple of months ago, I followed Comp Cams advice of starting it up and then get to 2000 RPM and not letting it below that RPM. Then rev it up up a little.
This will sling the oil all over the place. Do this for 20 minutes.
Then again ask your builder, he knows also the kind of hone he put in the cylinders.
Just curious, wonder if he torques a plate on the engine to the specs that the heads are torqued to and then hone out the cylinders?

 

[Rick]

I would sugest if you wanted to ask to be there when he primes the engine. My engine builder asks his customers if they want to be present when he primes. Gives you a nice piece of mind.

I primed mine myself before I ever fired it up. The problem I encountered wouldn't have shown up turning the pump with an electric drill.

Your most likely running a roller cam?
But just in case your running a push rod flat tappet engine. Ask your builder about using oil with enough ZDDP additives in it.

Yep, it has a solid roller cam. Even though roller cams aren't supposed to need it, I still started the engine with Royal Purple's break in oil which is loaded with ZDDP. I figured it would help eliminate any initial scuffing on all lubricated parts.

Just curious, wonder if he torques a plate on the engine to the specs that the heads are torqued to and then hone out the cylinders?

Yes he used the proper torque plate and honed the cylinders with the correct cross hatch for the rings I'm using.

 

[Rick]

It's back Picked up the engine this morning. I should be able to work on installing it this weekend

 

[olskool reddevil]

Good Luck

I'm crossing things fer ya

 

[Cobraguy]

Fire up the a/c! I just read a weather warning for this weekend. 108-110 temps and very humid. It's going to be a lonnnng weekend. C'mon September...get that humidity out of here!!

 

[Rick]

First thing I did this morning was to fire up the A/C Just waiting for it to cool down a bit before I get started

 

[Cobraguy]

Me too Rick. I want to tinker in the shop this morning, so I fired mine up. Folks find it hard to imagine how a garage can be 110 degrees inside, but that is not an unusual temp in late afternoon on a west facing garage here. First thing I do every morning is open the doors and turn on a big fan. Just to bring the temps down into the 90's. If I'm going to work there, then I'll turn on the a/c.

 

[Maniak]

At least you have a garge. I still haven't finshed the car-port. So for shade I try to work "under" the rig during the day and wear a floppy hat etc when I'm outside. At least it cooler here.. At the house its 5-10F cooler than you guys (also higher elevation)..

But,the biggest issue.. I keep burning my hands on the tools.. Gloves only help so much.. I can't wear my welding gloves all the time.. too bulky.

~Mark

 

[Rick]

Folks find it hard to imagine how a garage can be 110 degrees inside, but that is not an unusual temp in late afternoon on a west facing garage here.

I've seen 120+ temps after pulling a hot car into an already hot garage. Brutal...

 

[Rick]

Pheww... She's back in. Now to hook everything back up:scratch: