mjenk430 02 Sport Trac SAS

[MidnightRebel07]

You should be able to have one made. Oh yeah, more pic's, more pic's form the front, side, etc. when you get a chance thanks.

I'm starting to really look for parts and gonna start stock-piling my parts for my SAS, SOA come this summer. Really getting itchy to do the build but need to get my wife another vehicle so I can get my Trac back.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Chad had his Superlift driveshaft modified so you should be able to as well.

 

[mjenk430]

You should be able to have one made. Oh yeah, more pic's, more pic's form the front, side, etc. when you get a chance thanks.

I'm starting to really look for parts and gonna start stock-piling my parts for my SAS, SOA come this summer. Really getting itchy to do the build but need to get my wife another vehicle so I can get my Trac back.

Thanks for the reply. Good luck with your stock-piling. I thought the same thing. "Hmm, I'll just see if I can find that waggy axle for now" "Well, I found the axle, guess I can order some of the parts to start putting that together." Before I knew it, out came the plasma cutter and there is no turning back now.

Brief update but no more pics right now, sorry: After many hours of grinding I finally have both frame rails completely clean, no signs of any of the previous IFS brackets. I'm in the process of fabbing some "custom" u-bolt plates. Ordered my new leaf springs (Trail-Gear HD 3" lift springs), should be in Tues or Wed. Once I get those I will decide the rear hangers final location and gusset/box-in the mounts. Still waiting on the backordered steering kit from Ballistic Fab. I called last Monday and they said they were waiting on tie-rod ends and it should ship this past Thurs or Fri. *Fingers Crossed* I should call them again tomorrow and check.

I had no success in finding new 18x10 wheels with a 5x5.5 pattern so that I could keep my current tires. So, my old wheels and tires (with 90%+ tread life) have been put up for sale on Craigslist. If anyone on here is interested, let me know (More info here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317529 ). Once they sell, I think I'm going to go with Nitto Mud Grapplers 37x15.0R16 on a 16x10 wheel. But until my old tires/wheels sell, on the front I will be rolling around on some "stock-looking" steel wheels (painted white) with some ~29" stock sized tires that I found laying around in my cousin's woods bolted to a ford 9" rear. And on the back, my stock wheels and tires.

 

[mjenk430]

I'm looking for a dropped pitman arm for my explorer steering box. Are they pretty much interchangeable between different vehicles (Jeep, Ford, Chevy) or do I have to get one specifically for a explorer or ranger?

Anyone know where I can purchase a reamer for the pitman arm? I did a quick google search, but didn't have much luck finding one.

 

[Dezert_Dawg]

I'm pretty sure you need an RBV specific pitman arm but most major lift kit companies make them, i'd start with Skyjacker or Superlift.

Not the only source out there but the the first one that comes to mind is Parts Mike:http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=226&rn=1382&action=show_detail

 

[mjenk430]

I'm pretty sure you need an RBV specific pitman arm but most major lift kit companies make them, i'd start with Skyjacker or Superlift.

Not the only source out there but the the first one that comes to mind is Parts Mike:http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=226&rn=1382&action=show_detail

Thanks for the info and the link. I started looking around the Parts Mike Website and found this pitman arm: PM1104A Pitman Arm 3.5" drop large draglink ES2027Ll taper

It's already reamed out for the larger draglink end. Will this work with my 2nd Gen Explorer steering box? If so, I won't need to buy a reamer (which is almost as expensive as the pitman arm).

Not sure if it is the right one because its PN is 1104. Superlift's PN for the explorer is 1109, not 1104. Superlift's 1104 pitman arm says its for 78-79 Ford. Does anyone know if both will work on the 2nd Gen Explorer steering box?

Here's the info from Superlift:

 

[j_mazala]

The 2nd gen explorer has a steering rack did you mean to say the first gen which are the 91-94s? The 91-94s share the same box as rangers up to 97, bronco IIs, fullsize broncos and f150-350s from 1980 to the mid 90s and a few others. I dont believe that you can put an arm meant for a saginaw type box (chevy, jeep, scout, etc...) onto a ford box because the master splines are 45 degrees off. When I put the wagoneer pitman arm on my ford box I had to file out the master splines so that I could align the arm correctly, but I also had to file all the splines deeper because the arm wouldnt fit on the ford splines. I've seen this question posted a few times and some people say it will work no problem and others say it wont, I've never seen a definitive answer but I know it didnt bolt right up for me. Call up Parts Mike and see what he has to say.

 

[DB_1]

Call up Parts Mike and see what he has to say.

This. He can probably get you the right one and even ream it out for you.

 

[jperry7783]

I used an rbv pitman arm on my 79 ford box. I just took a dremel tool and cut out the master splines.

 

[mjenk430]

Ok, I called Parts Mike on Friday. The guy I talked to wasn't sure if their pitman arm would work with my steering box. He said he'd never heard of anyone using the box out of an explorer. He said there arm fits all of the jeeps and Chevys, but he didn't know about a ford. I'm going to take the pitman arm off a buddy's chevy today and see if it fits then I'll know.

Dumb question: what's an rbv arm? And what's a Saginaw steering box?

 

[j_mazala]

rbv = ranger based vehicle

saginaw = the type of steering box used in chevys, jeeps, scouts, dodges which is why you can swap arms between them other than the master spline orientation in some cases. toyota makes their own steering boxes as does ford

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Updates????

 

[mjenk430]

OK. Some updates and pics.

I got the truck back on its own weight this past weekend and semi-steerable (no power steering yet). No brakes yet though.

Major items left on to do list: power steering lines, brake lines, some misc welding to finish up, shocks, sway bar, flip the rear axle and reinstall stock rear leaf springs (maybe).

Problems to figure out: The truck sits a little higher in the front than I had hoped. Haven't decided whether I want to remove the body lift, go with flatter springs, or roll with it like it is for now.

Major issue: As you can see from the pic of the passenger side, I have no clearance between the draglink and the leaf pack. Any upward movement on the drivers side or downward movement on the passenger side and it binds. The way I see it I have a couple options: less drop on the pitman arm (which equals worse angle on draglink), somehow find a taller high-steer arm (already using the taller one from Sky Manuf.), or flatter springs with less springs in the pack. Any ideas? Anyone else run into the same problem?

 

[crazyflights]

Can't wait to see it on some bigger meats and done!! You will love it! I love riding in Chad551 Sport Trac it is sweet ride and yours is about to be sweet also.

 

[mjenk430]

Can't wait to see it on some bigger meats and done!! You will love it! I love riding in Chad551 Sport Trac it is sweet ride and yours is about to be sweet also.

You and me both!! It might be a couple of months before I can afford tires and wheels. I sold my old ones, but that money went towards paying the credit card bill from all the money I had already spent on parts.

Hey Chad, if you are following this thread, what's the height distance from the center of your hub to the center of your fenderwell, just for reference. It's hard for me to picture how high mines going to be with those small ass tires on there.

 

[mjenk430]

Anyone have a link to where I can purchase extended brake lines that will work with my setup. I haven't done any research or searching around yet. I figured if someone already knew where to look it would save me the time. Thanks.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

The front will actualy sit about the same height orlower then the rear when you do the SOA from the looks of it in the side shot, might wanna take the front alittle higher.

Chad left his body lift on for easier access for repairs. I'm pretty sure his frontend homemade bracketry is a bit higher then your S-10 setup which might be why you're having the clearence issue with the draglink.

 

[mjenk430]

The front will actualy sit about the same height orlower then the rear when you do the SOA from the looks of it in the side shot, might wanna take the front alittle higher.

Chad left his body lift on for easier access for repairs. I'm pretty sure his frontend homemade bracketry is a bit higher then your S-10 setup which might be why you're having the clearence issue with the draglink.

Yeah, but I still have the 4" superlift springs in the rear with the warrior shackles. I would like to go back to the stock springs for more flex and a smoother ride one I do the SOA.

I don't think Chad's is quite as high as mine is in the front, but I could be wrong. I have 3" HD lift springs for a yota in there now. I don't think Chad's springs are arched quite as much as mine.

I'm really torn. I would like to clear 38x15.50s but don't want a damn ticket everytime I drive it down the road. Stupid laws.

 

[mjenk430]

If I go with a straight pitman arm to raise the draglink, is it really bad to not have the draglink at a similar angle to the tierod? Or is it just not ideal?

Otherwise, does anyone know someone who sells a taller steering arm?

How much clearance at ride height do you guys think I need between the draglink and leafs in order to be able to fully cycle the suspension without it binding? I've got like 1/8" now and I can jack up the drivers side tire about 4" off the ground before the draglink hits the leafs.

Any suggestions? I'm really stumped on this one. I would like to be able to finish the truck with the leafs that are in it. If the trucks too high I'll deal with it later.

 

[mjenk430]

Here's a little visual walkthrough of how I did my steering rod if anyone is interested.

I cut 4"-5" off the slip portion of my stock steering rod and slid the plastic bushing thingee down on the now shorter rod.




Stock rod is now shorter.




I then took the steering rod that I got with my steering box and cut off the end of the rag joint that slides over the splines of the steering box. I knocked out the two rivets on that piece and tapped it for a 3/8" bolt.




Next, I took the little steering rod extender that came with the body lift, cut off the end of it and welded a little bracket to it that I made out of 1/4" steel. Please excuse the bubblegum looking welds. Our mig didn't like the soft metal of the steering rod extender from the body lift.




I then took the grinder to the nipple of my new homemade bracket so that it would fit into the weird egg shaped hole at the end of my stock steering rod.





I then bolted my new bracket to the piece I cut off of the rag joint using some 3/8"D x 3/4" long bolts and lock washers, shoved that in the end of my stock steering rod, tightened down the bolt on the side and had a completed steering rod.



What do you think?