The Black Hole

[CDW6212R]

That looks good, the hood too. What is that rubbery surface on the roof where the cables set on, they look like eyebrows from below?

 

[gmanpaint]

That looks good, the hood too. What is that rubbery surface on the roof where the cables set on, they look like eyebrows from below?

Thanks!

I haven't yet done the 3-step cut/polish/buff yet. Hopefully soon, as water leaves spots on it, as is.

Those are self adhered tread plates with tire tread pattern. I have them there to cushion the cables on the roof. They are about 3/16 thick, so yeah, they stand out a bit. lol

In the quest to be different with this rig, I have added a couple electrical things today. I lost a stock wire harness I removed years ago, so It's not finished yet.

Edit: I snagged what I needed at a salvage yard today. Went to finish the install but ..... Houston, we have a problem. No power from the dash to the harness. Spent a couple hours trying to run it down with no luck. Man I hate electrical gremlins.

I did find a perfectly good T-case skid plate to swap out the mangled one.


I found out that a T-case skid from an Expedition fits across the rear frame rails. I wanted one to use for a Air tank mount. It would work if... the evap crap box & lines weren't in the way. So, I didn't get it. I got all excited for nothing.

 

[gmanpaint]

Spent more time at the alignment shop today to try to dial in the caster/camber better. They tried but say the +/- 2* cam adjusters I have are bottomed out all the way and can't do anything else with it. They adjusted the toe better, and that changed the overall caster a bit, & now it pulls slightly to the right.

Ok, so I need some help here finding some larger adjusting camber bolt kits. I was told that someone makes a +/- 3.5* kit that works on the 2nd gens. I have been looking but no luck finding them.. I am wondering if they are actually made for a different model, like an Expedition, F-150, or Exursion?

If anybody knows anything that would help me locate these, man I would appreciate the help with this one.

 

[Turdle]

If you have moog adjusters they are 1.25 degree + or - _2.5 degree total

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8674/overview/year/1999/make/ford/model/explorer

ingalls are 2.25 degree + or - 4.25 degree total


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/iec-29000/overview/year/1999/make/ford/model/explorer

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Jon!

The ones on now are the A/C Delco +/- 2 degree kit. for a total of 4 degrees.

 

[gmanpaint]

Added a couple small 5 watt LED's to the front mounted as low as I could for simple driving lights.

Made some brackets out of sq tube, bolted them up to the engine cross member. The hardest part was finding a place for a switch. Ended up mounting that to the right of the headlight switch.

These things are waterproof, and bright for a 5 watt. They have a bubble magnifying glass for a lens.

I think the LED conversion is done. (I think)

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

Done until they come out with the next best thing right?

 

[gmanpaint]

Alright, my camber kit research came out with a positive ending.

Found an old thread here with a link to a product made by Northstar. I called them and verified that their adjusters have a 3.25* +/- range for a total of 6.5* Their part# is 44-768-4. This kit is for both sides with 4 bolts/cams.

They are in MN, and I asked where I can get them locally. They supply these to Federal Mogul, who is sold at NAPA. I got the NAPA Part# from them, and am ordering them today.

NAPA part# is 2642953D1. They sell them one side at a time, so I need 2 sets total for both sides.

I have to bring the rig back to the alignment shop and have them install these. My fear now, is they might have to open up the bolt slots a bit on the outside edge. I'm not sure they will do that because of a liability issue. Always something with these rigs!

EDIT: Napa couldn't find the PN I gave them. The "D1" was not coming up, and the part# 2642953 is all they have and that is only a 2*+/- kit.
Called Northstar back, and they figured that the D1 is a # for them, not NAPA. They also make these for MOOG (another rebranding) and gave me that PN of K80065, and said Advanced auto sells em. Now if I have trouble with them, Northstar gave me contact info for a supply store in MN they know has them, and will sell to me if I tell them Northstar sent me. I looked up the Moog # and they are only 1.5* +/-, so a call to the MN supplier is next.

Update: After talking to the MN supplier, they verified these are a 3.25* total with 1.5/8 +/-. Back to the drawing board!!!!

So after thinking this thru, I have come to the conclusion that my only recourse is to have longer upper arms. The more you push down on the LCA's, the more negative camber you get because the UCA's are not allowing the top of the tire to push outward.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's good to know that there are some different camber kits. I think both of mine were the same kits, and my 99 Explorer didn't have enough adjustment to put it any lower. So I have my 99 not much lower than stock, and I'd like more at some point.

I did notice when I installed that camber kit that it's possible to do some minor clearancing of the mounts, to gain more adjustment. It would be slow and tedious to do with a file or low speed rotary tool. I think a die grinder would be the quickest method. I forgot where the mount would need the work, but looking at it with the camber washers makes it clear. I'd do that a bit, before trying a different kit.

 

[gmanpaint]

It's good to know that there are some different camber kits. I think both of mine were the same kits, and my 99 Explorer didn't have enough adjustment to put it any lower. So I have my 99 not much lower than stock, and I'd like more at some point.

I did notice when I installed that camber kit that it's possible to do some minor clearancing of the mounts, to gain more adjustment. It would be slow and tedious to do with a file or low speed rotary tool. I think a die grinder would be the quickest method. I forgot where the mount would need the work, but looking at it with the camber washers makes it clear. I'd do that a bit, before trying a different kit.

If I could find a larger kit, I would open it up more. The 2* +/- (4* total) I have now are maxed out. Since I can't find any, well.... I believe my only choice is longer UCA's. Dixon Bros used to make a uniball upper that are longer, but have since been bought out by Vegas fab. I will need to research them, and see how much. I already know the DB arms were around $600.

 

[Turdle]

Lifting causes too much "positive" camber on every other explorer I have seen. . Something else is going on.

 

[gmanpaint]

Lifting causes too much "positive" camber on every other explorer I have seen. . Something else is going on.

I think your forgetting that the coil overs are set for lift by pushing down on the LCA's just like a TT does. When pushing down on the LCA, It is impossible for positive camber because our SLA set up has shorter UCA's then LCA's. It's not physically possible as the UCA's are not long enough with 35" tires, and a 2" lift like a TT.

These new tires are taller then the old worn tires, and that height difference is way more pronounced with the negative camber rearing it's ugly head.


Edit:
Here is a thread I just found with a member here most of us know weighing in on this subject.

http://www.ranger-forums.com/suspen...-get-uneven-tire-wear-torsion-bar-crank-5635/

 

[Turdle]

I wonder if the top of the shock towers have encountered so much force supporting the weight of the truck in a non boxed frame, that without a shock tower brace across the engine bay, they have migrated a little closer to each other.

This would also pull the upper control arm in a little bit.

 

[gmanpaint]

I wonder if the top of the shock towers have encountered so much force supporting the weight of the truck in a non boxed frame, that without a shock tower brace across the engine bay, they have migrated a little closer to each other.

This would also pull the upper control arm in a little bit.

That is a very interesting theory. Way to put the old noodle to work!

I have no way to tell if that happened or not. I did a visual inspection yesterday when the rig was on the lift, and the welded gussets look fine, but they only go halfway up the towers.

I would have to take an angle measure of a stock tower on a non lifted rig to get a base number to go off of.

 

[crazyflights]

he brings up a great point....

hmm

 

[gmanpaint]

The frame is boxed where the mounting tabs are and tied into the engine cross member. So I think it is just maxed out using stock arms & knuckles.

 

[gmanpaint]

Discovered the rear pinion seal is leaking yet once again. I don't get it. :scratch:

Note to self....

Pay someone to change the Manual trans fluid, next time around.

 

[gmanpaint]

Spent a little time at the Turdle Farm in Kansas last weekend. We did a little woods exploring in the rigs, and found the perfect (IMHO) trail name.

A little 3 wheeling action coming out of a mudhole and heading up a climb.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Nice!!!!!!!

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

Looks like a blast!!