My Explorer build.

[gmanpaint]

Step bits work for the underside, but after that, you have to go thru that lower hole to drill thru the top of the frame, with a long bit or a bit extension. There is no room to drill from above. Unless your just bolting to the underside, and not all the way thru the frame.

Personally, when I did this style, I preferred completely thru the frame with nuts & washers on top. Double shear strength this way, and less chance of ripping/twisting the frame. Chances are, if you need hooked up, your not on flat ground, and pulling up & over something increases the load forces. Or stuck in mud axle deep. That's even worse. I am guilty of only bolting to the underside on the work rig, but on the wheeler, I didn't take a chance.

I have since went even stronger than those F-150 hooks, 3/4" Clevis rings to welded 1.5" thick bar stock thru 3/8" plate welded to the frame ends, and then 1/4" gussets to the frame. I have just seen too many tow point fails, and some ended badly for both the yanker & yankee. I tend to overkill, as I feel better to be safe than sorry, but that's just me.

I always look at a persons tow point before I agree to strap them out. If I think it looks sketchy, I just wont hook up. That's the guy you don't want to be. Not saying you are, but for others reading this down the road.

 

[Turdle]

Step bits work for the underside, but after that, you have to go thru that lower hole to drill thru the top of the frame, with a long bit or a bit extension. There is no room to drill from above. Unless your just bolting to the underside, and not all the way thru the frame.

Personally, when I did this style, I preferred completely thru the frame with nuts & washers on top. Double shear strength this way, and less chance of ripping/twisting the frame. Chances are, if you need hooked up, your not on flat ground, and pulling up & over something increases the load forces. Or stuck in mud axle deep. That's even worse. I am guilty of only bolting to the underside on the work rig, but on the wheeler, I didn't take a chance.

I have since went even stronger than those F-150 hooks, 3/4" Clevis rings to welded 1.5" thick bar stock thru 3/8" plate welded to the frame ends, and then 1/4" gussets to the frame. I have just seen too many tow point fails, and some ended badly for both the yanker & yankee. I tend to overkill, as I feel better to be safe than sorry, but that's just me.

I always look at a persons tow point before I agree to strap them out. If I think it looks sketchy, I just wont hook up. That's the guy you don't want to be. Not saying you are, but for others reading this down the road.

My tow points always worked good enough to drag you out--just sayin'

 

[WormsExplorer]

Look what I got from @Turdle Got it on mine and My Daughters I also have to get it on my Wife's Truck.

My Daughters

 

[Mbrooks420]

LOVE those plate surrounds. EXTREMELY durable.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

This forum has plate surrounds?

 

[WormsExplorer]

This forum has plate surrounds?

Yes sir. Talk with @Turdle and he will let you know how much.

 

[WormsExplorer]

I just updated My Title Page. I think this one will be the one that I stick with. My Daughter really likes that we both have a Explorer Sport. Not to get one for my son when he gets old enough.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

What actually became of the gray truck sitting on blocks? How'd it get there?

 

[WormsExplorer]

Its grey and a buddy of mine bought it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Ohhh well I was half looking forward to a V8 build, I like seeing those since I'm partial to V8s

 

[WormsExplorer]

OK I got a question for you all and its a wondering if it is worth it type thing to do.

All my wheeling years I have had the Manual hubs. I have never wheeled with Auto hubs. It is worth it or possible to switch my Hubs to the Manual Locking hubs? Yes I have wheeled a lot with Jeeps and they all have The Auto Hubs (or what ever they are called.) Have not really seen them break down out there on the trails and they have always drove off at the end of the day. I know it might save me a little Money ie better fuel mileage. I guess is it really worth it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[gmanpaint]

2nd gens don't have hubs, they have bearing units. Only the CV IFS Ranger came with a vac operated hub for a couple of years.

Unless your talking about a 1st gen? Hard to keep up in this thread, as I no longer know what vehicle is what, here any longer.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Sorry about that @gmanpaint I now have a 98 sport and I think I will just close this thread and start an all new one and keep it Simple. Did not mean to hurt your head if I did LOL.

 

[CDW6212R]

There are manual hubs which you can fit to the normal Explorer/Ranger 4WD spindles, ask delaExplorer(forgot the spelling). He has them, maybe on two trucks, he knows them well. All I know is they aren't cheap. Regards,

Here's a RangerStation thread on an AVN manual hub swap; Convert Ford Ranger Live Axles To Manual Hubs : The Ranger Station

 

[WormsExplorer]

Thank you sir Just not sure if it is worth the trouble or the money.

 

[fastpakr]

The hubs themselves aren't horrendously expensive, $160-200 depending on MileMarker vs Rugged Ridge (AVM). The problem with doing it on an Explorer is the other Ranger parts that you have to swap on so that they fit. It's also not much of an advantage unless you want to run a front locker. I just threw them on my '99 Ranger since I'm eliminating the electronically shifted transfer case so there's nothing to activate the vacuum controlled hubs.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Thank you sir.