The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Group Moab Utah Trip was pulled off with only a few hiccups, but made it safely back home as scheduled. Little over 3000 miles round trip, inc time spent while there.

The Good:
It got there, and back on it's own.

The Bad:
The 5.0L that was installed is weak, and needs head work. Pass bank is leaking oil and fouling all 4 plugs. Had to change them at camp after 2 days of trails, and the ride there.
It suffered greatly trying to go up any of the mountain passes, or big hills. I had the hazards on for at least 100 miles, doing all of 40 mph in a 65 along I-70 in Colorado. Extremely disappointing that this rig's engine is just that weak as is, and should be able to do better, even loaded up with gear.

Trans temps suffered again on climbs. After all that was done, I really expected it to do much better. Temps on the troubled areas was cool, ranging between 50* & 70*. The trans temp gauge was used in place of the speedometer for most of the trip. Meaning, I went as fast as the trans temps allowed. Use of the OD button and gear selection was heavily used to control it, along with speed management, to keep the trans from over heating. Super disappointed with this.

Used a total of 4 quarts of oil on this trip. Crazy stupid!!


Carnage:
Broke two new Drivers CV axles. One on Hells Revenge, and one on Kane Creek's Hamburger hill obstacle. Both changed on the trail with help from the group.
Some bumps and scrapes to just every skid & slider on the rig. No biggie, they did what they was supposed to do.
Wore out the joint on the intermediate steering shaft. It was binding at times, which was super sketchy on trails with cliff edges! lol

The Future:
Well, I have some very serious decisions to make here with this rig. It is not doing, what I need it to do currently. I ether make some serious, serious, serious mods with some serious price tags, or change up what I use for my needs, and start over with a different platform.

My Son joined us with his RZR 1000 Turbo.

Some 3 wheeling up Hells Gate entry. If you can't make it up this, you ain't going on this trail. LOL



The deep steep washout on Kanes Creek. when you hit the bottom of the "V", you either clear your front end, or you drag it up. BH cleared it clean.

 

[traveler]

I'd sure hate to see anything happen to the Black Hole. Do you think that a new head gasket would fix the oil loss/fouling problem?

By new platform are you still considering a 1st gen Expedition?

 

[CDW6212R]

That oil consumption sounds like my last two 98 302's, poor maintenance. I would suggest rebuilding the heads may take care of most of it. The engine has had too few oil changes, and lower quality oil, plus old air filters. That wears out faster, the cylinders, valve guides and valve seals. Additives barely help at all, that helps oil seals a tiny amount. I'm planning to rebuild my black 98's heads, just to help with oil consumption. Mine uses about a quart in 500 miles, maybe less.

I'd do a leak down test before making engine decisions, it may need more work.

 

[gmanpaint]

Still need to do a compression test on it. Not making any decisions until that is done. No visible oil leaks Traveler, just consumption or blow by. Head gasket is good.

What I do know, is something has to give/change in order to continue doing what I want too.

If I do change the platform, more than likely a 4 door short bed straight axle, full size truck will happen.

 

[gmanpaint]

Haven't touched the rig since the last trip out to Moab. Had some thinking to do, and weigh out my options.

Because of my age, and my body slowly declining physically, I decided not to start over, and just make the best of it with this rig. That's how I currently feel at least. There is just too much $$ invested already, that I will never ever get back, and it would be a huge loss (nobody wants to buy a heavily modified Explorer), and then adding the costs of starting over, then the time it will take to modify a new rig, will just eat up the time I have left to enjoy this hobby. I figure 10 years is all I have left, if that.

I will slowly add things to help make it work, for the things I want out of it.

Going deeper in gearing is on top of the list. I will only go as deep as 4:88's in a D35. Not much of a jump, but it will help I think.
As far as the engine goes, I'm thinking of getting another, and building it on a stand a little at a time, as finances allow. Some better heads, along with headers, will help the cam & air intake change's. As far as Tuning goes, I'm on the fence between mail in tunes, and taking it to a shop. Finances will dictate all that.

Adding a crawler box to the atlas is also being considered to help with the 4:88's and the weight of this thing, on the trails.

Some trans mods to assist as well. Valve body upgrades, and better than stock converter to start.

A long travel kit is not out of the question, same as an SAS. If an SAS happens, I would go to 5:13 gears, and skip the crawler box. The 4.3 atlas will suffice. For what I do, a narrowed EB D44 would work just fine, as Rock crawling is not the main use/want any longer. Front articulation and tire clearance, would be the main reason for it.

All that is the high dollar stuff. It will take a couple years to become a reality.

For now, I'm doing a few minor things in the next few weeks, weather allowing.

New headliner is going in, due to the moon roof leaking last week, and the front dr side drain failing. KurtECV helped me get a new one home for that.
We also grabbed a new fan shroud, so I can modify it to replace the one currently in it, that is doing nothing to help. Only have the top half on it, might as well not have anything. I will also buy another new sever duty fan clutch, since the last one didn't get installed, and disappeared in the void.

I grabbed a new dash bezel from a Mounty, to replace the bezel with the 4wd selector, that is not needed. I want to add a Redarc Pro Tow Elite controller to it, and use the cig lighter spot for it.

With the interior stripped for the new headliner, I want to line the flooring with sound mat, and maybe even the ceiling for heat protection. Someone said it cools the interior by as much as 30*F. Interesting! Also in this build stage, I will work on the corbeau seat brackets, to lower them by 1.5"-2.0".

Then the 8.8 Truss can be welded up, and installed with the axle out, and in the shop.

All that will keep me very busy for a while. As with anything, plans can change up, so all this is just the current plan, to keep this rig alive, and in use. $$ will dictate everything. The more I have to spend, the faster this will go, and vice versa.

Hope all is well, with all of you! Be safe, and stay frosty!

 

[CDW6212R]

I like the plan, I'm in a similar boat, projects that are too far into planning and costs, parts etc, to start over.


Here's a list for you though, you do like the minutia of planning ahead, the data, numbers etc;

1st gear, 4.17:1, followed by 2.34:1, then 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, and a 0.69:1 high gear.

 

[gmanpaint]

I like the sounds of the deep 1st gear, but that high gear might be too much when towing, even with 4:88's. I think going a little less than stock on high (OD) would be better suited for that...... No?

 

[traveler]

I think you're right Greg. You've got a very heavy rig, and with the added towing its just begging for an overheated transmission. Even with the Expedition I don't tow in OD, it just works it too hard.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well, each application is different. Stock Fords with that come with 3.11:1 or 3.31: gears, Mustangs I noticed. Right now you are dealing with a 1:1 gear for towing, not high gear, which limits the 1st gear and diff's. Of course you don't tow in high gear with a low rpm, the rpm needs to be high enough to make enough power for the load.

With a bigger 1st gear, the diff's can be a little smaller ratios, and still have decent gears for both day to day, and towing etc. It's a better range of choices. You could move the range of final drive ratios by choosing R&P's that may be better for both or all uses. Myself I'm planning 3.08 gears for street only and performance, no towing likely, and 1800rpm 70mph or so.

For towing, you can use the .69:1 ratio and do easy math to make the rpm you want in high gear for towing, and then see where that leaves the final drive ratio for 1st gear etc, for off road(adjust up or down to compliment or compromise each). You already have done that with the existing gears you have, the 2.84 1st gear, the 1.0:1 3rd gear, and then you chose the R&P ratio you have now.

The later trans has no bands, it can take more load in the higher gears than a band can. We all know that's why the older transmissions can't tow in OD, the OD band is too weak. I just suggest it, nudging, as another expense, as it wouldn't be cheap. Part of the cost would be new gears and driveshafts. I'm expecting to have to make a trans extension to use an older TC, the normal BW4406 etc, that the 4R takes. Rebuilding one should be typical, the adapter up front should be very feasible, getting a TC with a slightly longer set of studs(3/8" is my plan)(high end TC brand should be possible), then the controller($1300 only aftermarket choice).

 

[gmanpaint]

@CDW6212R Regearing the current trans, would be the only thing I would attempt, if that is even possible.

Another long post. This one is long, for those that might have this issue, or don't know they have it yet, and just a heads up about it.

I found a new maintenance item on the rig last week. The weld on T-handle pull pin, on the tire carrier swingout, needs annual servicing. I didn't even think of it, until it was too late. If these pins are frozen in place, whatever your holding with them, is SOL. Not going to be able to have access. For me, it would be the rear door hatch.

The RuffStuff locking pin:
These things have a weld on Barrel that you place where needed. The big holding pin is spring loaded, and threads in the weld barrel. Once threaded, the T handle lifts, and turns to lock in up the position. In order for that to work, there are small side pins in the main pull pin at the top, under the Handle. These drop into the half depth slots to keep in place, in the open position. Full depth slots in the closed position. Slots are crossed, and pin turns in 90* increments to use the pin slots.

I went to open the hatch, and went to open the tire carrier. First thing is to pull the T-handle up, and turn it to lock, so the pin is out of the bumper, freeing the swing out.
The Plastic T-handle was jammed, and wouldn't lift as normal. I used some force, and still nope. Used two hands, and activated monkey grip. Well, the T-handle came off, but the pin itself didn't budge. A small hairline crack was found at the base of the T-handle. With it in 2 pcs, I could see the inside of the handle has splines, and so does the main steel pin.

I used some 3-1 oil liberally dropping it into the pin slots, on top of the nut, and let the pin soak a day. Using a set of pliers, I was able to lift/drop as it should. OK, I think you know what happened here.

So it has a big nut on the pin, and a few threads under it to install into the barrel. I removed the old pin assembly and found all the rust. My thinking is water seeps inside it from the top, and gets it wet inside. I called RuffStuff specialties, and asked about it. They said sorry, and sent a new unit the next day. Sweet!

The new clean pin and the old pin removed from the barrels.

I stuck the handle back on, cleaned the rust off, and am going to try to plastic weld the hairline crack on the handle. Another small project for another day.

So instead of plain old household oil, I used Black molly grease inside the welded barrel, and the pin itself. Simply threaded the new into the old, and bam, back in bizz. Hope this helps someone down the road someday, if they have the same issue and look to the internet for answers.

In other news, I decided to change the fender flares from the 2.25" to 4.25". Same stuff, just wider. Found what I needed, and at a half priced discount, due to damaged packaging, and sold as used, but with new guaranties/warranties, plus free returns. No brainer. It arrived today, and sure enough, perfect condition, just a beat up unopened package. You can't hurt these things in a box, even if you threw them off a 50 story building. LOL

I have an idea, that hopefully helps others that have done a 3" Body lift on a 5.0. More on that, after I make it a reality. Already have all the materials/parts, just have to find the time!

Peace!!! ✌

 

[BKennedy]

I have similar pins in my bumper. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease on the bearings for the swing outs, and smeared a little on the pin before it was installed just because its a moving part and I happened to have the grease already on my hands. Now I need to check them to see if they are rusted out inside.

 

[gmanpaint]

I have similar pins in my bumper. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease on the bearings for the swing outs, and smeared a little on the pin before it was installed just because its a moving part and I happened to have the grease already on my hands. Now I need to check them to see if they are rusted out inside.

In your part of the country, I imagine they stay pretty rust free. Here, it's so humid goldfish can swim around the tree line.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

I have an idea, that hopefully helps others that have done a 3" Body lift on a 5.0. More on that, after I make it a reality. Already have all the materials/parts, just have to find the time!

Peace!!! ✌

Can I guess, this is a Hedman 88400 header?

 

[gmanpaint]

@CDW6212R Nope, but thanks for the pics. I remember those. Been a while tho! lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Just a bad guess. I think some like that could be forced to fit, but the modifying and the steering shaft are major issues. Stay cool and keep busy in this rough Summer.

 

[Turdle]

My thoughts on this matter are:

I have a strong suspicion the newly swapped engine was extremely tired, and suffers from blow-by. Your gearing should be perfect for 35" tires.

I do know skid plates up front create a lot of drag, but you've seen our Mounty do fine even with a roof rack loaded with stuff. Your rig is probably about another 12" higher which doesn't help much but still, I feel your explorer was struggling way too hard.

A well freshened 347 bottom end on otherwise stock internals, with headers to help with heat flow should be the ticket. I'm not sure what Tuning would be needed but keeping everything stock otherwise would surely help. Keep the compression low and realize that on the mountain peaks your power will go away.

A power adder is another can of worms that should not even be discussed. Not gonna be a reliable option

 

[gmanpaint]

@Turdle I wonder if it had 210k not 110k on it? Maybe the cluster was bad, and the OD stopped working long ago? Who knows, but it sure doesn't behave like a fresh low mile motor.

Before it was pulled from the donor, I was told the compression checked out on every cylinder, as I asked they do that before even buying it. I was then told it was freshened up, by stripping it down to the heads and block, inspected, cleaned, and sealed back up with all new gaskets from intake valley up, and complete new front dressing. After it was installed, and exhaust put on, they gave it a clean bill of health, and sent me a 15 second video clip of it idling, saying they was jealous of it. So, in my mind, I was getting a great engine, ready to handle what I needed, and will be around for a long time to come, issue free being all stock for dependability.

Well, we all know it went downhill fast as soon as it returned, and has done nothing but plague me ever since. I still want to rebuild another 302 on a stand, a little at a time as funds allows. How I go about it will yet to be seen. Ya know how it is, today's idea is the best ever, until tomorrows idea take over.

I am taking it wheeling this weekend (leaving in a few mins actually). I only have a few more opportunity's before winter hits, and I haven't tore anything down yet.

I did get the new 4.25' Fender flares installed.

I will post some pics next week.

 

[gmanpaint]

Side by side shot.
4" Pacer Flares vs stock non flared.

 

[gmanpaint]

Grabbed a 5.0L Fan shroud from the salvage yard for $5.
It is time to replace the old hacked up 4.0L shroud, that was doing nothing but covering the top of the fan blades, from grabbing my necktie.

The 4.0 shroud had the lower half removed because of the Body lift and after the 5.0 swap, the new larger radiator, couldn't be lowered like the 4.0 Rad was. Well, that's what I was told over the phone. What ev's. Old news...

So I was thinking of flipping the 5.0 180*, as it actually worked out height wise perfectly for a 3" body lift. I got a 1/8" x 1.75" x 24" pc of Aluminum for it, to rivet to the shorter lip bottom of the round fan opening. This would be the fan protection on top, as the lower lip is only 1/2" tall, unlike the top that is bigger. Bent it perfectly to wrap the shroud, and set it aside for later.

Next was my idea for the upper bolting tabs, and the lower resting tabs on the shroud. I cut them all off flush, with the dremel and a thin cutting disc. Cleaned them up and set aside.

I removed the 4.0L shroud, and placed the two shrouds together. This is when I realized my 180* flip idea wouldn't work. The 5.0 Shroud is much deeper than the 4.0L at the opening. Like a full 3" deeper at the top. With it flipped, the deeper top would hit the front of the engine dressings. Dang it, that pc of alum was a waste of $$.

A few head & butt scratches later..... It dawned on me that I could just use the 5.0 shroud right side up, with one draw back, ( wait a Min, I'm getting to it).

Measured 3" UP the shroud tabs, and marked it, for all 4 tabs. I bought a cheap 80 watt plastic welder kit to use for this job. Took some time, but I was able to tack weld the tabs back on where marked, then fully plastic weld them on. I used the welder to melt the tabs all around, then used plastic filler rods to fortify them, then did it again, for a double weld job. The Pass upper bolt tab was a bit different. It sits higher than the Dr side to begin with. To go 3" higher, only half the tab would fit onto the side of the shroud. I cut some material off the 4.0L shroud to make a filler pc, and modify that part of the shroud. It sits about 1" above the top of the shroud.

Alright.... So the draw back.

Because the shroud and the Radiator are both close to 24" tall, and the modified shroud now dropped 3" to fit center around the fan, will sit lower than the radiator. This isn't really that big of a deal, as I will weld a plastic strip to the bottom all the way across to block that opening. Won't be that easy, as that is a large, long span to weld with a welder that has a 1/2" tip. Is what it is.

I'm hoping that with a real working shroud, the engine and trans temps will run cooler. Even a few degrees will help big time.

The tabs cut off on one side

And welded back on. The silver markings are the original location.

They are amazingly strong. Really impressed with this plastic welder tool. Should have bought one a long time ago. It will come in handy for many things. A bag of welding rods are like $5. You can get all kinds of different types too. As long as you use like to like, it's all good. Best to use the same exact material, like I did using some of the old shroud, for full bonding strength.

I will finish it up soon, and get it installed. Not looking forward to fighting that dang fan clutch. I always manage to bleed everywhere with that dang thing, even with the fan tools. LOL

Until next time.... Sayonara Suckers!

 

[gmanpaint]

Finished up making the shroud this evening. Ran out of time to get it installed. That's how life is lately. Plan plan plan, & do what ya can.

To make this work, and get the sides to sit flush against the Rad, more cutting & welding was required.

The 5.0 shroud is way too big (depth) for a 3" body lifted 5.0. I had to cut the top horizontal lip down to 3/4" in depth, which matches the sides, same as the 4.0L top is.

The bottom of the shroud. Well, to get this to not drop past below the radiator, I removed a few inches off it. 3" to be exact. This left no horizontal wall, and the box was only 3 sided to the Radiator. So.....

I used the upper cut off portion removed, (left side on the above pic) to make a new lower wall. The shroud is curved, with the center being the high point of the radius. I just traced the curve with my Milwaukee octopus ink pen, and cut it to shape with the Dremel cutting wheel. It was almost long enough. Left 1/2" gaps on both sides. No problem, just made some filler pcs from the scraps. Looks a little out of shape, but that doesn't matter. When I cut this pc, I left it a bit higher, so I could use the extra material to weld with on the outer seam. Worked out beautifully.

Welded in the lower wall on both sides, then the end fillers all around. Strong as new, or strong enough for this use. Nothing structural about it, so I'm good with it.

The caution fan lettering is now on the bottom. LOL

I might have to tweak one corner for the lower Rad hose and the extended fan shield, for the upper hose. That 3" body lift makes things interesting with this taller Radiator. So much easier with the smaller 4.0L Rad, and being able to drop it with brackets.

Hopefully this works. If not, I'm only out a few bucks, and a few hours of Life.

So a few days later, I fought getting the fan back on with the shroud loose. Nope. Tried bolting the shroud on, then fought the fan some more. Nope. Just not enough space for my big mits, and not so limber joints, to manage the fine threads to get it started. I yanked the shroud back out. Walked away from it.

Next Day, KurtECV came over, and with the shroud out, got it on within a few minutes. Show off! lol Thanks buddy!

Ok, I decided to do something drastic. I started looking up electric fan conversions! That will be happening in the near future!

For now, I needed this shroud back on. I cut it in half above the resting wing tabs. Yup, I cut it in half.

Drilled 2 holes, on each side, on each half, and added four 1.5" angle brackets. Dropped the lower half of the shroud in from the top, and spun it until it was in it's proper place, and the wing tabs in the radiator mounts.

Then simply dropped the top in, bolted to the Radiator, and then 4 zipties in the angles to clamp them together. Now when I need to remove the fan, I simply remove the top half, and have a clear shot at the fan.

So there is a gap at the top of the radiator, above this shroud now. I do believe this shroud, will still work better than the other, that had only the top half, no sides, and no lower.

Still have to clean the engine bay from all the red Moab dust! Don't judge me dammit!

Oh, Kurt told me a trick how to tighten/loosen these fan clutches. Using an air chisel/hammer, hit the nut in the direction you want, and break them loose. Then remove/tighten by hand. No wrenches needed this way.

Worked like a charm, until that time it slipped off and hit the back side of my hand. 4 new holes, a blood blister, and some cuts later, it was back on, and "Goodentighten".