410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

[Cali' Explorer]

410-
Well, that depends on how much you trust Haynes and Alldata, that's what it really comes down to. From what I've read, they both say that the arrow should be pointing straight front to back on the '96 on up Explorers (in line with the engine block center line).

You can see the information for this at the following page which is supported by AllData:About: AllData CMP Sensor Installation. In both cases, they say "Ignore where the pointer was before and match these specs".

One other thing. Based on the isntructions and how the tool is made, I don't think you can be off that much. Since you are dealing with the cam gears, I'm guessing you will either be near the centerline or off by +/- 22*. So, if you are close to centerline with the tool, that's probably as close as you'll get.

From what I understand, the computer only uses this with the Crankshaft Position Sensor to make sure which rotation of the motor it is on. The absolute worst that will happen if this is off is that the engine will operate in "Limp" mode, but that's part of the issue, all this information is kind of loose out there.

I am going to have my mechanic buddy pull the specific instructions from AllData for the '97 to see if they differ in anyway from the '96 instructions, but according to my friend, they never mark them before removal and just follow AllData's information on resetting it and they've never had problems with customers vehicles.

 

[Turdle]

410-
Well, that depends on how much you trust Haynes and Alldata, that's what it really comes down to. From what I've read, they both say that the arrow should be pointing straight front to back on the '96 on up Explorers (in line with the engine block center line).

You can see the information for this at the following page which is supported by AllData:About: AllData CMP Sensor Installation. In both cases, they say "Ignore where the pointer was before and match these specs".

One other thing. Based on the isntructions and how the tool is made, I don't think you can be off that much. Since you are dealing with the cam gears, I'm guessing you will either be near the centerline or off by +/- 22*. So, if you are close to centerline with the tool, that's probably as close as you'll get.

From what I understand, the computer only uses this with the Crankshaft Position Sensor to make sure which rotation of the motor it is on. The absolute worst that will happen if this is off is that the engine will operate in "Limp" mode, but that's part of the issue, all this information is kind of loose out there.

I am going to have my mechanic buddy pull the specific instructions from AllData for the '97 to see if they differ in anyway from the '96 instructions, but according to my friend, they never mark them before removal and just follow AllData's information on resetting it and they've never had problems with customers vehicles.

OK
I am partly to blame, but don't make this more confusing guy's
The tool locks onto the shaft, then you drop it in place.As long as the tool is on, and it drops into place, and #1 is TDC you are good. It doesn't matter where the pug is pointing, as long as the engine is at #1 tdc. Mechanically, all that is happeneing is the flag is starting to block the gap when #1 is about to fire.
The reason to point it forward is to allow wire length for connection.

410, you are good
Cali, do it like 410

 

[410Fortune]

okey dokey, I bet I could get that sucker one tooth closer to center line, but geesh its getting burried behind crap quickly! This is how it was installed on the 96 block from Ford, in this position and I used the alignment tool with #1 at TDC, so I think I will just go with it!! hahaha

 

[Cali' Explorer]

410 & JT-
Ok sounds good. I really didn't mean to scare you 410, I'm more asking for my clarification as my buddy didn't mark the CMP when he removed it, so I have no clue where it was before and my thinking is, there must be a way to position it properly without knowing where it was at before, or there'd be a lot of useless 5.0L Blocks laying around I'd imagine. That was mostly where my questions came from.

But, now I'm going to leave your thread alone, I've tarnished it enough, hehe.

Ohh, and thanks guys for your help. It really is making me less insane over this, haha.

 

[410Fortune]

shes ready to run

I need to install exhaust and air filter, add fluids and then VROOM

First I straightened the inner fender metal on both sides:

All metal was ground smooth (old spot welds) and paint removed.
Then the new rad support was put in place, I measured and measured again to make sure its positioned in the correct spot:

Then the welding, yes yes I know booger welds but I am learning! It is STRONG plus these will get covered up so only I will see them anyways:

Radiator support welded in and painted:

I dropped the trans pan and replaced the gasket and filter, also plumbed the trans cooler lines. I painted all the parts that bolt onto the radiator support, I mounted my trans cooler, installed the battery tray, coolant overflow resevoir, wiring, fan and clutch, horn, HVAC, etc....

I am cleaning up the header panel, headlights, bumper, grill, etc and will install after I run the engine for a bit and make sure all is well.

I still have to resolve my steering issue before I can drive it but I think I have it figured out
I relocated the trans shifter cable a bit in order to get it further away from the header.

Tomorrow I will register this truck with CO DMV So I can drive it to the exhaust shop, have the AC charged and get an alignment.

So close!!

 

[Turdle]

getting there!!!
You'll be pulling the boat in no time!

 

[MoabB2]

New rad support looks great!

What are the plans for the exhaust?

 

[zainyD]

So close!! Hope everything works as planned. You've done an awesome job so far.

 

[rookieshooter]

This is really coming along nicly and the workmanship as allways is first class.

 

[410Fortune]

exhaust will be similar to the BII, I will let a dual inlet single outlet muffler do the scavenging duties where the two down pipes come together.
No stock secondary cat converters, a simple muffler and pipe after the primary cat converters, dual 2.5 inlet, single 3" outlet.

 

[410Fortune]

Here you can see I re-located the shift cable to avoid the header, I will fill the left over hole with a rubber plug and sealant.

You can also see the 3" body lift causes the steering shafts to hit right at the TM Header. I plan to physically move the trucks steering wheel down 1" under the dash, I also plan to modify both shafts (from wheen and from box) to help clear the header.

This is my next project so I can drive this sucker!

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Wow man, looking really nice. When are you planning to fire her up for the first time?

 

[410Fortune]

yesterday, hahaha no seriously I could have added fluids and cranked her over last night, but I plan to put an air filter on first (had to get spare KKM out of storage) and I will bolt on the dual cat converter assembly just to quiet it down a little bit so the neighbors dont freak....so tonight or tomorrow night after work

 

[Turdle]

Your nieghbors will still freak!

Watch them come running out looking around when you start it.
ha ha
good times

 

[410Fortune]

most of them are aware of what I am up too and how close I am so it wont be a huge ordeal, there are many race cars in the neighborhood, etc so we are kinda used to it. Part of the reason I bought this house is its a nice neighborhood, but no stupid covenant where you cant have cars out front and store your boat, etc...

I will be the one running around when its running! I plan to drive it around a bit with no hood/lights, etc shhhhhhh........

 

[410Fortune]

I just ordered diamond cut clear headlights and corners

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Pimp. Are the diamond cut clear corners actually glass, or are they just clearer glass? My concern with getting those has always been them melting and or fogging.

Let us know how they turn out.

 

[410Fortune]

they are plastic just like OEM, never heard of any melting, just some rare condensation issues which can typically be resolved with some clear silicoln around the edges (where clear meets white plastic, same as cheapo fog lights)

 

[briwayjones]

She's looking good 410, can't wait until you get her done. I was in Denver this past week and if you're close to there I was thinking about coming up and inspecting your progress first hand. But I didn't have access to internet to get a hold of you.

 

[410Fortune]

You come to Denver often?

HUGE UPDATE!!

last night I had some time to work on the truck, so I:






painted the MAS body! Should be worth at least 25 horse power.
sorry no pics





hahaha time was cut short, but she should be running tonight and bolted together this weekend