410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

[410Fortune]

Aha I knew I forgot something!

Maybe this will help I have my EGR vacuum switch mounted in a diff spot but in this pic we can clearly see the upper hose goes to the diaphram, so process of elimination tells me the lower goes to manifold vacuum!! Hope this helps!

red= fuel pressure reg, white = egr vacuum feed both go to the same spot on the FACTORY intake, not sure how you have yours setup

 

[Turdle]

A big atta boy!!!
Ill explain later in that other thread
Im fixin somthing now
thanks

 

[410Fortune]

Ah yes the fun stuff, here's an update of recent fixes:
First I got the chrome wheels and 33x12.50 Dick cepek FCII's on the Exploder (being called the "Fercury" or "Mercord" now):

front bumper has also been "shimmed" (PITA)

bling bling

This pic came out funky but regardless you get the point: Two tone interior is coming along. Notice anything different? (Next is to put grey leather on the door panels where the blue leather currently is, then install grey headliner)

Thats right I had some custom vinyl paint mixed up in the factory "Willow" interior color and painted the navy blue airbag cover, came out perfect!

Hitch installed and wired for the trailers:

Swapped out the old painted rear skirts for some clean chrome ones from the rolled truck:

I bought a Kicker 5 channel amp from Boomin (KICK ASS DEAL) and wired it in.
The factory speaker wires are going directly to this amp from the doors now.
I also put Diamond Audio coaxial 5x7's int eh front doors and some free Infinity kappa 5x7's in the rear. this system sounds GOOD. Nicest AMP I have owned! Currently at 4 ohm but eventually will all be at 2 ohm with more subs (3ea 10's) and components in each door, also a cap to keep everyhting at 14.4 volts

and finally I made myself a new steering shaft boot and plate assembly for the firewall, to keep the hot air, water, and noise out of the passenger cabin.
this sucker was tricky, took me a couple of tries but the end result is great. Steering shaft BARELY clears the headers, but it clears:

More to come............
2wd/4hi/4 low conversion coming soon, little things like fan shroud, and rear 8.8 swap happening this weekend.

 

[Mutineer]

THAT IS SWEET!

Gonna do a little tire lug siping with the front fenders?

How does that steering shaft do when the engine is under torque? does it roll the other way? Mine rubbs a little after my 3 " body kit, I welded in a 3 inch spacer and it rubbed alittle under load......

Looks awesome, dude.

 

[410Fortune]

thanks! The pass side was rubbing just a bit, I assume its because there are more camber shims on that side right now, not sure...but a hammer has taken care of 90% of it, I am not too worried about the other 10% I may do a small torsion twist after I install some warriors in the back to get rid of the stock butt sag.

Looks like I will be painting the front clip myself too after not being to happy with the local auto body shops (long story, but it says walk in estimates welcome, even though its not true and I REFUSE to go to MAACO after they fubared my BII, so I figured %&ck it I will paint it myself....)

 

[rynstvy]

Your expo look greet all buttoned up (rims especially), i was curious what was wrong w/ your bumper that needed shimin? and what auto parts store did you get them floor mats at?

 

[410Fortune]

the floor mats are made by Husky liner, I run them in all my vehicles, in CO it is essential to have mats like this!!

Nothing was wrong with the bumper, but it is mounted to the truck using body lift re-location brackets I had made, so when I first installed it, there was some sagging (the sides hang down too low) so the solution is to shim the upper bolts until it is straight like factory (no gaps) It can be a huge pain in the ass! Took alot longer then expected, basically because I am trying to put washers (shims) on teh bolt after it is fed through the bracket and before it goes through the bumper, a time consuming process when you are by yourself, using a floor jack and block of wood to hold the bumper in place, with little room to work.....

 

[james t]

Nothing was wrong with the bumper, but it is mounted to the truck using body lift re-location brackets I had made, so when I first installed it, there was some sagging (the sides hang down too low) so the solution is to shim the upper bolts until it is straight like factory (no gaps) It can be a huge pain in the ass! Took alot longer then expected, basically because I am trying to put washers (shims) on teh bolt after it is fed through the bracket and before it goes through the bumper, a time consuming process when you are by yourself, using a floor jack and block of wood to hold the bumper in place, with little room to work.....

If you ever have to do it again, try tack welding the washers to the bumper. Two little tacks w/ welder turned down low wont hurt the chrome and makes it go soo much quicker. Chalk that up to the been there/done that files.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

You could probably achieve the same effect with a small amount of thick grease, just enough to "Stick" the washer to the bumper while you line things up. Just a thought though.

 

[410Fortune]

yeah I dont think I would be tacking these washers to the bumper, you see the bumper was still in place, I only shimmed two bolts.
Also I found towards the end of this process that a nice pry bar inside the bumper had just about the same exact effect as my shims, so I could have saved about 2 hours there hahaha. I do need to weld up one of the frame horn bumper mounts however, the wreck bent it back a bit and my bumper brackets have caused a small crack....no biggie.

I can say with confidence the body lift is NOT coming off hahaha All the custom work I have had to do was to accomodate that sucker, so it's staying!
Next project is to find a 33x9.5 spare and fit it under there, also running boards or no running boards that is the question ( I have them)

 

[Trckmagik]

I think if you go with running boards, the go with the full running boards and fender flares painted to match. I did this on two of my past explorers and loved the look.

 

[410Fortune]

I have the running boards, but they are not the kind that go with flares.
I liked your purple first gen also, but the second gen flares are a bit different, I am not sure I like them, but then I only see them on the stock trucks where they are like 3" wider then the tires...

 

[Trckmagik]

The flares and boards that were on the purple one were from a second gen explorer. I think it depends on the tire you are running. Bigger tires look great under them.

 

[410Fortune]

you had to punch holes in the fenders correct? ( i have some purple sport fenders that have flares, with factory holes, so I could bolt them on and see what I think)

 

[Trckmagik]

This wouldnt give you the one piece look, would it? You would then have a running board, then a fender flare.
You have enought salvage yards, find you some fenderflares and running boards that flowas one piece. I did drill holes on the front fenders, the rear was there.

 

[410Fortune]

are you kidding the side of my house is a junk yard!
I think the flares you are talking about are the 98+ style.....this 96 originally had just running boards no flares.....so you are right I would need the 98+ style running boards as well....

decisions decisions....
I jsut want to hide the frame a bit is all! hahaha

 

[rynstvy]

how did you made your steering shaft boot?

 

[410Fortune]

I will do a full write up of how I relocated the steering column (to change the angle) and how I clearanced the firewall and made the adapter and boot soon.

 

[rynstvy]

so does some explorers come 4x4 which it is on all the time,(All Wheel Drive), why did they do that you think? is that what yours is?

 

[rynstvy]

i was wonerin on the secondary cats are they necessary?