5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[Scotts96sploder]

Did a little research, and I learned that the tone ring style sensor actually creates and AC signal that the gem then converts to digital. I’m assuming that’s what the 96 gear driven one did also, so all I need to do to make this work is:
Ground
+12
Both ends of the sensor
Either output 1 or 2 and if it’s way off switch

Just need to know which wire to splice into for the gem input/DD output.
Couldn’t find a wiring diagram or schematic, anyone got one or happen to know which wire it is?

 

[allmyEXes]

@Scotts96sploder Some time back, Jamie provided me with some VSS wiring diagrams. Maybe this will help. Click the link and go to post #66.
go to post #66

 

[Scotts96sploder]

@allmyEXes THANK YOU! I’ll be digging into this this afternoon. I’m feel like someone told me years ago it was different in the 96, but I’ll find out!

 

[410Fortune]

Application is about the same
Use the speed sensor in the rear axle and you can copy my setup and my math and output


If you use the speed sensor from somewhere else then you have to figure out how many pulses per mile your sensor is generating and then convert it down to the 8000 pulses per mile the speedometer and gem module want to see

All of these trucks have a 8.8 rear axle with the tone ring and the rear abs speed sensor
The wire is available under the hood at the abs computer which is why I chose it

I have already sorted out the pulses per miles that it generates

The speedometer and gem module are the only
Computers onboard that still use the 8000 pulses per mile
Output everything else is using the wheel speed sensors and is happy with that signal which is why you must tap into the wire the same place I do

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I agree that would be easier, I’m not keeping the 8.8. I am probably installing an 01 sterling which I think I could use that way, but I’m not sure that one is going in either. Both axles I have are stripped, I’m working on making some trades for a complete pair to save the work. Might end up with a D60/70 or D60/Chevy whatever rear, etc. also I would rather have less wiring dangling.
I’ll figure out how many bumps are on the output shaft and do the math. Not sure what’s in an atlas but I have a buddy with one that did this, I can copy what he did if it’s a similar signal. I just really needed to know where to spice in and the 8k. So thank you again!
Just waiting to get off work and start fiddling with it. Also gonna pull the codes while it’s in the air to make sure I’m not going to hurt anything if I don’t get it figured out before I get tired of not test driving lol

 

[Josh P]

What traction devices are available for the sterling? I think there's a Eaton trutrac for it, not sure about anything else.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I think all the big names make some kind of posi or locker for those.
Also Chilton make a freaking book for this?!?! I thought they stopped back in the late 80s for some reason! All wiring headaches should be resolved now lol

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Hahahahaha finally ran those code. P0750 which is apparently for a shift solenoid A… so maybe I should have changed those… any other causes for that?
Also, more progress! Topped off the case, shifting wonderfully in the air with no funny noises. Modified the tank bracket and reinstalled it which required dropping the tank. When I reinstalled it all the tank moved a bit and the driveshaft started hitting. So the plastic got made into garbage and the tank got a mild adjustment with a bigazz hammer.
Added the fancy fluid protection stuff @410Fortune suggested. Transmission still reading over the high mark so I’m assuming I need to actually drive it. Also if I have to change solenoids, I have a clean bucket so I can just re-use the same fluid.
Going to do some reading and see if I can figure out how to get the 4406 to talk to the gem real polite like.

 

[410Fortune]

With engine running and foot on the brake your in the trans through all of its gears 1-2-d r n p over and over then check the fluid level with engine warm and in park. The dipstick can be tricky to read keep it from rotating on the way in and out and you can get an accurate read on the level

The shift solenoids can be ohm tested from outside the trans before you drop the pan, make sure it is not an external wiring issue

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Productive morning!
Everything underneath is back together. Got the DD box wired up and working!! And went for a test drive.
So to determine which pair of wires I was hunting down, I used the old gear vss, chucked in a drill and installed in the factory plug. Spin the sensor, use a chicken stick to find the weak AF AC signal in one of the plugs to the gem. Then continuity check trough that plug to find the two wires. Finally check that circuit for VAC while spinning the sensor to verify. Mine are on the bottom plug, pink/black and grey/black.
For right now, I have Vcc and ground through some power to the the radio circuit, probably should find something different maybe. 4406 sensor directly to the DD box, and the output is currently rigged up with a double meter lead so I could just jam it in the plug for testing. I figured if I used one input and the speedo didn’t work, try the other one… I’ll get pictures of my setup posted later today. Too hot now.
Chose grey/back first, it worked on the H-H output reading 65 at idle with the wheels in the air, maybe 20mph. Adjusted the setting as low as it would go in H-H which is .250 and it got really close! It’s off maybe 2-3% with the current gear/tire combo.
Test drive: Not entirely sure it ever shifted into 3rd, I think it did. 1-2 shifted kinda hard at first and mellowed out. 4hi and 4low all works, and it shift hella while in low range which I kinda like, but won’t go past 2nd. Stopped every few blocks and checked fluid, it went down to the top of the plastic, so it’s now in normal range for hot, if not still slightly high.
Transfer case sounds kinda like straight cut gears in 4low, is that what they normally sound like? No noise in 2hi or 4hi.
O/D off flash the whole time, pulled codes, same stuff. So I’m assuming I can probably find resistance checks on here or in the Chilton or both?

 

[410Fortune]

Good job!!!

US Shift Technical Support

This Technical Support section will help you fix problems that may arise with your transmission control system.

www.usshift.com

 

[Scotts96sploder]

While searching for those checks, think I stumble on the problem. The main plug is wired differently in 99, and I swapped over my 96 harness.
So now I’m wondering, can I just buy a 99 trans harness? Do I go to the yard and grab just this pigtail and rewire mine? What y’all think?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Or get one of these and wire up what I need… I hope

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[Scotts96sploder]

Local yard has about 6 99-01 explorers, quick and easy ish to grab one of those harnesses and just try it. So unless someone tells me before tomorrow morning that it won’t work I’m just going to try it.
Once the sun goes down a bit going to find a home for that DD box and wire it in properly.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Trying to determine if finding the 99+ harness is going to work I found that some of the changes are no condition for EPC and TCC power. I have no clue what those are and I’m assuming they are omitted in the 99+. Everything but the TCC ground is in a new location, so as long as the big end of the harness puts all that in the correct place it should work right? what an adventure

 

[410Fortune]

I explained it earlier
96 has three total power wires for the solenoids going through that plug

99 has one wire for power and splits three ways inside the trans
After that you just re pin the other wires to their new pins
Re pin the connector

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Looks like a good position for the slip yoke you want to have a bit of plunge available at ride height

1999 has the latest solenoids and wiring internal no need to change solenoids unless they have issues

96-97 uses a analog dtrs (digital trans range sensor) and has additional wires feeding the solenoid pack

98-01 use an actual digital dtrs and there are fewer wires going into the solenoids

You did, I didn’t realize this meant I need additional wiring mods.
So I’ll just grab the 99+ pigtail for that connection and wire that in. Little bit less work. Might still grab the whole harness though, as that will have the correct plug for the 99 neutral safety switch. Not sure which will be less work. We will see!
Will the center console from a 99-01 fit a 96? Wouldn’t mind something a litter nicer. Since I’ll be working from the top, might as well grab that if it’s nice.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes console will swap out!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

OK so I just swapped out the harness for a 99. One of the O2 sensors doesn’t fit. Had to reinstall a 99 neutral safety switch. I lined that up correctly, plugged everything in, and when I first reapplied power it started to crank, so I stopped that and pulled the key which was in run. After that I got a no start. So I’m wondering if I have a bad 99 neutral safety switch, or does the entire 99 harness not talk to the 96 computer? Should I just wire the pigtail for the transmission only into the 96 harness?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Tried a new NSS just to see, same problem, so I assumed the harness is totally different. Went ahead and married the two, and after screwing it up twice, ITS ALIVE!!!!
No transmission codes, shifts into OD, drives down the road and the Speedo is reading 2~% high. But it WORKS!!!
I need to tidy up all the wiring and make a permanent home for all of it with loom, but other than that the hard part is done! It’s 110° today so I’m done. I’ll play with it Tuesday if when we get back from the beach.
Shifts into OD even in 4low at a whopping 18mph . Finally saw what everyone talks about with the 4406 not wanting to shift from 4low back to go without going to park/off/neutral to relax the driveline.
This thing is going to be so cool!!! I’m so stoked right now!!! Thanks again for the help!