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94 Bearhug survival thread

BearHug

Member
Joined
July 4, 2015
Messages
48
Reaction score
10
City, State
Anchorage, AK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT
Hey all,

I've seen a lot of fun and entertaining build threads on the forum and thought it about time to contribute my own. But as I'm a broke college student the thread will be less about building it up, and more about keep it alive -- thus survival thread. Hoping ya'll can help me in this mission. Here's a little bit about the ride:

Purchased the vehicle coming up on three years ago after moving to Anchorage, Alaska for $1,600 with about 114 k on the odometer. It was the third car I had checked out, and I instantly fell in love with the all red interior and the commanding view an SUV offers over the road.

Prior to owning the Explorer I barely knew how to change an air filter so it became something of a training car for me to work on while not being too concerned about it "exploding" or me messing something up. I'm now pretty comfortable replacing about anything on the car so in that regard it's already paid for itself in education.

The man I bought it from bought it from his parents (so second owner). His folks used the car as something of a taxi to bring people from the airport to their RV park thing they ran -- in the right light you can still see the outline of their phone number on the side of the car.

Within the first four days of owning, on a frosty and snowy morning, I pulled out of the driveway to have it die (battery). Had a kindly gentlemen push my car back into my driveway -- with his Ford F150 and a tire in between the cars -- and thus has begun my love affair with the Explorer. Here's where I'm at (specs), and where I'm hoping to go with the Explorer:


Modifications/upgrades/stats/etc... in no particular order.:

- Just rolled over 130 k from originally purchased 114 (over three years, apx).
- Flowmaster muffler
- Pioneer deck
- Dual speakers in the front, Kicker speakers in the rear (straight wiring to the deck; bypassing preamp).
- Replaced shock absorbers with Gabriel (autozone) brand el cheapos. First real upgrade, huge difference in the ride.
- New battery.
- New tension belt pulley thing.
- New positive battery cable.
- New alternator.
- New starter.
- New tie rods (outer and inner).
- Transmission fluid and filter change.
- Oil and filter changed at every 3-5 k with full synthetic. Air filter on similar schedule.
- New spark plugs (motorcraft) and wires (autozone brand, I think).
- Swapped passenger and driver seats around in car -- I rarely have passengers and the passenger side seat has a lot more cushioning.
- Aftermarket license plate bracket/faux brush guard installed with a pair of Walmart brand off road lights (each 50 watts).
- Dope vanity plate that says HUG but after the picture of a bear (bearhug). Get a lot of photos in traffic.
- Smoked front turning signals.
- Replaced driver's side window switch area with Ebay part due to the old one cracking in half.
- Retrofitted a second generation explorer cargo cover to fit first generation explorer (hacksaw method).
- Zip tie mod (accelerator a bit loose).
- Has an auto start, but need new fob?
- Block heater, but I think is non-functional.
- New brake pads (pad SLAP!).

Unresolved issues:

- Leaking front differential from RF seal (I believe).
- Sporadically leaking coolant hose (only during winter and when I have to crank the heat to warm up in the mornings). Been happening since I've owned it. Top off coolant as needed.
- Ongoing issue with leaking from oil filter. Going to examine thoroughly on next change here, but thinking a chunk of old gasket is stuck on there. Only started happening over last few oil changes.
- Power locks don't work (except the passenger side unlock switch).
- Alignment not right. I went, and paid, to have it aligned after installing tie rods, but it's crooked still. Tires wearing alright so I haven't worried too much, but still kind of annoying to have the steering wheel off center. They claimed they couldn't align correctly because my lower ball joints are worn? I had another mechanic say that's not true. What do ya'll think?
- One of the two cords connecting to the accelerator is extremely loose. Threw zip ties on and it helped a great deal but still a bit loose.

Upcoming plans for the Explorer:
- Get my winter tires on or buy this new set I'm eyeing (31 Hankooks on studs). Never driven on 31s but that be sweet.
- Oil change and diagnosing filter leak.
- Getting a battery blanket -- a thing up her in Alaska.
- I'm guessing my battery will give up this winter. On year 3 (cheap one). I've had to replace alternator, battery cable and starter over last two winters so the battery is my only real weak link in the power department.
- Would like to install new front seats or at least putting a new driver's seat in. A black leather would be sweet.
- Replace high rear brake light assembly (I snapped 3 of 4 retaining pieces while replacing bulbs, eek).
- Getting remote entry for front two doors, at least. I'd be really stoked on getting that done. Anyone taken this on? What does it entail?
- Rerouting my stereo wiring. I ran the wires straight to the deck (so not through the door panels) so looks a little off with random wires everywhere.
- Installing an amp and subs (BUMP!).
- Fixing coolant leak.

Thanks for taking a gander. I'll try and post some photos up soon, and hopefully get enrolled with Elite status so I can have the pics in the thread. Next up is oil change and tires!
 



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I suggest getting an Interstate battery at Costco. Good quality and a real good price.
Usually, alignment shops will refuse to align if your ballpoints are sloppy, so the shop that did align it shouldn't have.
Why did you replace tierods? Old ones get bent?
 






I'll keep the Interstate in mind. Think I'll ride out the current battery until it dies and squirrel away some cash just in case.

In hindsight I should have been a little more careful about the shop I went to. They apparently have a less than stellar reputation. Didn't mention anything about ball joints until it was time to pay. My mechanic associate/buddy said the ball joints seemed fine though. So it's a little unclear what the status is. Planning to take to another shop if/when I get the 31s for their input.

The steering was super loose on the explorer prior to changing the tierods. Saw and felt the old ends compared to the new ones and it was night and day. One of the rod ends was pretty close to giving out.
 






For the leaking filter I'd give the filter mounting surface a quite scotch brite scrubbing if there's no apparent gasket left.

For the remote entry you might want to look into an installed remote start that adds this function. I'm sure there's a thread here that details adding the factory function.

30x9.5s or 31x10.5s on studs are great for winter driving.

What kind of stereo budget are you looking at?
 






Here is an imgur page with some photos of the ride: https://imgur.com/gallery/LdptD

Thanks for the tip on the leaking filter. Going to take that on next weekend along with getting the new set of tires if they're still available (fingers crossed). They're 31x10.5s.

Not sure where I want to go with the stereo set up. My buddy is going to give me a pioneer amp and cheap scosche sub for free so I'm going to give that a try first. If I do end up upgrading I'm guessing in the $300-500 range (probably replace the Dual speakers in the front; nothing wrong with them just not stellar audio). Though leaking bits take precedent so that will likely be on the back burner of my projects.
 






I've struck a tentative deal with the man with the 31s. They're 31 Hankooks with studs on rims coming off a Ford Ranger. Looks like I'll pick them up Saturday for $325 assuming no one snatches up before then. Up here in Alaska, the Permanent Fund Dividend gets released tonight -- annual payout to Alaska residents for mineral rights -- so hoping no one swoops on them. Tires been up for almost a month now so I'm optimistic. Will report back soon!
 






Got them! First set of 31s, and I'm pumped. They're Hankook I Pike's and fit perfect. Next to no rubbing -- suspension is stock on my ride at the moment -- and handles much better than the previous set. Some cosmetic rashes but overall pretty clean. Considering a move to plasti dip black? Yay or nay?

Officially ready for the snow, and looks like I'll be taking it out to Jim Creek -- local off road and mudding area -- next weekend to give it a proper breaking in. That will also be a first for me.

Here's the before and after of the tires: https://imgur.com/a/YyP3Z
 






Plastidip can lay down pretty good, and is fairly durable, but I think it wouldn't hold up to bush, or branches without peeling. I think s cheaper roll on bedliner would hold up better, but prep work is key, and it's not really removable.
 






Think I'm going to roll with the chrome through the winter. It's growing on me. Though can definitely see how plastidip would have a tendency to scratch up.

Up for the Explorer next weekend:

- Replacing oil and filter; cleaning filter mounting service to try and fix leak.

- Finding auto start module in my car:

The nights are getting colder; and snow is on the schedule for next weekend. Previous owner installed an auto start in the car, and there is a Bulldog auto start sticker in the engine bay. Problem is no remote. Going to root around and see if I can find the auto start module to see what model it is. Assuming it's still hooked up correctly -- or even there at all -- all I should need is a cheap replacement remote.

Looks like it's most likely to be living somewhere under the steering wheel column.

P.S. Billet grille? Yay or nay?
 






Got around to the oil change, but my oil filter wrench grew some legs and walked off -- will put off til next change to take a look at the leak coming from there.

Checked my front differential and fluid level has stayed the same for a few months now. I initially thought the RF seal was leaking as fluid would pool on the finger if touching it, and still see drops under it every day, however with the level not moving I'm beginning to think it could be something else. Any ideas?
 






I surely wouldn't run a filter for two oil changes. Should be able to get it off without a wrench.
 






It's on there pretty good. Been using full synthetic and changed at about 3,000 so not too concerned about the filter. Will probably do next change a little sooner though. Appreciate the input.
 






First hiccup of the winter: The turning signal flasher went out. Turning signal lights worked fine but wouldn't blink -- on the dash the turning light would stay solid instead of blinking. Replaced the flasher -- located in the fuse box under the steering wheel -- with a Novita Hazard Warning Flasher from Autozone for $8 (part # LL552). Easy fix, and works good.

However, will note the Novita replacement is about 1/3 longer than the stock flasher. So the plastic cover for the fuse box cannot fit over this. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of if you have run into a similar issue.
 






Updates from the Alaska winter

Hi all,

It’s been a while but thought I’d give y’all an update on how the explorer has gotten through the winter:

· BIG UPDATE: FRONT DIFFERENTIAL LEAK GONE!: While examining the differential I noticed the breather hose was connected to some kind of metal tubing above the diffential – presumably running to the engine bay. I detached the hose and noticed the metal tubing is totally clogged with grime. I left the hose detached and the leaking in the front differential has stopped completely!!! My assumption is when it got connected here the differential built up pressure causing the seal to leak.

· Electrical systems champed through the cold: The battery has made it through the worst of nights, and with the vehicle’s revamped electrical components has allowed the car to fire up every time including in negative 10-degree conditions with little to no hesitancy.

· New 31s been a massive upgrade to snow driving: Easily the best modification to the car.

· Passenger side front interior handle snapped off on a frosty morning: Just like the driver’s side handle. Makes it awkward for passengers to shut the door – have to put their finger in the hole and pull. Darn interior molding is fragile. Will replace with ebay part I used for driver’s side.

· Developed a ticking sound with occasional clunk from front wheel area: After returning from my second trip off-roading – story below -- I’ve noticed a strange sound coming from the driver’s side wheel well area. It sounds like a baseball card stuck in the spokes of a bicycle and the sound increases as I accelerate, and disappears as I brake. Hear it at about 30 mph and up. Thought it was the wheel rubbing against something but doesn’t appear to the case. Sporadically the car will make a strange pop sensation from the area. And sometimes the baseball card noise disappears entirely.


Didn’t immediately notice anything after pulling tire off to check, but going to take off again tonight and check the hub more thoroughly. Problem doesn’t seem to affect how the car drives, but the sporadic pop sensation is a bit disconcerting. Interestingly enough my friend’s car developed similar symptoms after our return.

Took the explorer on its first major adventure:

Took the Explorer on its first major offroading excursion to Knik Glacier with a friend – 30 miles or so north of Anchorage and then 20 miles off-road over a frozen river to reach. We went out for an afternoon to mess around on the ice at a place called Jim Creek – popular offroad spot in the summer for mudding (believe its been on some 4wd shows). After my friend helped an early 90s jeep wrangler get unstuck from an icy creek crossing he showed us how to ford the river and get to the glacier.

During this trip I got stuck at one creek crossing – got high centered on rear differential. The jeep we freed helped me get free after about an hour of slipping on the ice and cursing trying to winch it out. Using his hi-lift we raised the rear and reversed out of the spot. The end result was totally worth it. We came across nearly a dozen highly modified jeeps ripping around on the ice of the glacier– I was the only ford representative out there.

On the way back I blew a tire off the rim after essentially jumping a creek crossing – my friend said I got air. The tire separated from the rim after crashing down so I threw on a spare to hobble the ride home.

Went again out there with the tire on new rim and made it all the way without getting stuck – my friend ended up being the one getting stuck this time. A lot sketchier as the ice is starting to melt so lots of stopping to test conditions before proceeding – pretty sure you cannot reach the glacier by ground in summer. Again we were regularly accompanied by a parade of jeeps who would pull off to shoot their guns and then catch up with us on the trail. Again, the only ford on the trail – lot of these folks had rigs with 50k plus set ups.

Fun stuff, hoping to get the car off road more in the summer.
 












Your thoughts on the diff breather tube sound correct. Previous owner must have seen the the hose not hooked up to anything and figured it needed to be!

The ticking sound from the front sounds to me like the auto hubs are on their way out. Do you have auto hubs, or manual?

You're running 31s, do you know what your axle gear ratio is? If not, If it's one of the taller factory ratios and you keep running 31s, you will bring your transmission to a fairly quick death. Ask me how I know! You want 3.73 for that tire size. 3.55 would be passable I guess, but 3.27 or 3.07 will bring the death.
 






It’s definitely the driver’s side hub. When I engage the 4wd the squealing sound disappears — only seems to happen in 2wd. Any idea why that is? If driving in 2wd I’ll hear a whirring sound — like a baseball card in spokes — and then it will make a jarring pop sound/sensation and the whirring sound disappears.

Yep, auto hubs. I’m thinking it’s about time to swap to manual hubs.

Thanks for the tip on the gear ratio. Running stock at the moment, but I’ll get on upgrading that after seeing your comment. Only put 2-3k miles on the 31s so hopefully haven’t messed up the tranny much.
 






UPDATE: It was definitely NOT the driver's side hub. Pulled to clean, but didn't change anything. Went ahead and procured some manual Mile Markers. While attempting to swap the front right hub noticed the cam assembly had snapped -- this was the cause of the grinding sound. The locking key for the big socket on that side got stuck so I wasn't able to swap -- going to take another crack at it soon. Tossed the broken cam in the garbage. Squeal gone.

Swapped left side hub without issue -- rocking the manual/auto combo; no need for 4WD at the moment so should be good. Bearings were pretty gunked up -- cleaned a bit. Guessing I should swap those out as well.

One thing of concern though: while swapping the front left hub noticed the rotor doesn't spin as freely as it should -- even with no hub connected. I'm guessing this is bearing related?
 






Interesting parts find! Ordered a Lund brand Cold Front (grille insert) off Ebay for $20 (after shipping). No need at the moment, but thought it was a nifty find.
 



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I highly doubt he would have 3.08's or 3.27's up north. Only certain gear ratios were offered from Ford dependant on the region. (Speaking from a guy who pocketed the 8-ball on a split with 3.08's on his 1st gen :rolleyes:) More than likely he has 3.55 or better. Which if that is the case, your 31's are fine. (stocks are 29's) Best thing to do with that transmission is put a temp sensor on it and add an additional cooler.

I would pull the rotors and inspect the bearings, repack if good, replace if not. If you are going to replace bearings, just buy new rotors with the races pressed in and save yourself the headache of punching races in and out.
 






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