I'm not sure Don, I sent a pm to levitown Ford parts telling them what I needed, for a price quote. As you can see though, NHUB-22 is a good search number.Nice, and did Ford use these hubs on some later models, the G2MZ part number prefix?
I Literally just ordered ball joint boots silicone ones lolYea, I need to do lower ball joints as well. They aren't loose, at least the alignment guy didn't call me on them (he did tell me to replace the inner tie rods however) but when I was replacing the ITRs I noticed a shredded boot on the drivers side LBJ. You're right Jon, if its not one thing its another! On the bright side, I'm getting darned good at replacing front end parts!
interesting!!!!! have mevotech outer tie rods they are holding up good! still have a set of ES boots tooThe Mevotec ttx parts I’m sorry I ever installed them honestly they appear good on paper but have not held up well at all on explorer ranger and excursion
Never again will I go
Mevotec
Right up there with Detroit axle
Ball joint needs to be more then “pretty”
Yeah, but now I got one blue boot, all the others are lime green . What do I do about thatThe Mevotec ttx parts I’m sorry I ever installed them honestly they appear good on paper but have not held up well at all on explorer ranger and excursion
Never again will I go
Mevotec
Right up there with Detroit axle
Ball joint needs to be more then “pretty”
I'm not sure Don, I sent a pm to levitown Ford parts telling them what I needed, for a price quote. As you can see though, NHUB-22 is a good search number.
On side now the Betty is hurt, passenger side mebotech ttx lower ball joint is showing up down movement using huge screwdriver as prying tool. Fudgers given while looking for my acdelco trail spare.
Why did it let go so early? Maybe 3000 miles tops since changing them.
Never as scheduled. Driver hub installed though.
I Literally just ordered ball joint boots silicone ones lol
Ball joint swap went very well, because I used anti seize when I installed the ttx bj.I hope your lower BJ swap goes well, I have only done a pair of those on my 99. I have the TTX UCA's on my last two 98's, so far the mileage isn't enough to decide if they are low quality. The LCA is the critical one, I hope that bad one you have is a one of a kind.
Ball joint swap went very well, because I used anti seize when I installed the ttx bj.
Fingers crossed on driver lbj holding up.
Another question,might need to ask in coilovers thread. Shock bearings. Man these things dry out and make some noise. Anybody have a preferred bearing to use? I used qa1 com8t 102pk does that sound right? The ones in my shocks now are 1 1/2 inch wide bolt sleeve, but new ones just arrived are only 1" wide.
What did I miss?
If your goals go over 5800 rpms at all, be sure to get 7/16 studs in heads for rocker mounts. Pedestal mounts will fail if pressed past that just a few times.
That got put In here by mistake, meant for @gmanpaint black hole thread. Idunno how it got in here. Then I saw the head specs listed and saw it was covered . Thanks Don.Thankfully most new aftermarket heads do come with 7/16" studs now. The old standard was 3/8" studs, which are very common in older heads. I had a set of pedestal mount rockers on my 351W Crown Vic, but the camshaft lost a lobe at 15k miles. I didn't like those rockers, using 5/16" bolts to go into the stock 5/16" thread holes was scary to me. I never ran it much rpm, an AOD shifting below 5000rpm I'm sure. I think even many low end brand heads now tout having 7/16" rocker studs.
The problem is that stud mount roller rockers stress the rocker studs terribly, especially at higher rpm. They are kind of okay for rpm's kept below 5-5500 I think, but still worrisome. I'm planning to find shaft mount rockers for my 347 to go in my Lincoln, those should last forever.