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Dannyboy's Re-Registry

What better time than now to do this.

Here is my old 94
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100935

Just when my transmission crapped out again, I saw my current 91 for sale on this forum. Joe (Lilmule) owned the truck since new and moved to Milwaukee. When I got this truck I had no clue what I was getting myself into. Honestly, I purchased the truck for the glass fenders and C4/C5 transmission setup. I didn't want to deal with TTB, didn't know who "Autofab" was and didn't like that it was spring under and had some 9" axle that I knew nothing about. Here was the plan, combine these 2 trucks, solid axles, updated glass, C4/C5 tranny, 37" swampers, and ditch the blue truck.

91Explorer1012Medium.jpg




Luckily for me and this truck, I didn't have time to start parting it down. I took it out on a few rides, fully rusted out and couldn't believe the "shalackin" I could put into this truck. I spoke with Joe on the phone a few times over the first year and he kept going on about how great this setup is but never really knocked my solid axle idea or told me what to do. I did start to see that some serious money was spent on this rig the first time it was built.

When Joe mentioned his bill was in the 5 digit numbers at various places like Autofab, Currie/Mogi etc, I realized that I needed to do some more digging into what I had gotten myself into.

Disappointed my 94 that had nearly $30,000 into over the years was sitting dead with transmission parts in a box in the backseat, I researched what I had. I realized that the blue 91 was the truck to move forward with, XL over a Limited means less issues, power features to short out and it had some serious potential. I parted down my 94 and laid it to rest.

junkyardtow.jpg




The for sale ad even said "Needs TLC, after that..."

and this brings me up to speed.

I ran this truck for a while, my avatar photo was taken without spending $1 on this truck, I couldn't belive taking a truck that was sitting could handle this abuse. This little thing was just a machine.

DSC01836.jpg


Then I went to Truckhaven and it was pointed out by other members that I had some work to do, a shackle was nearly rusted through, radius arm bushings were toast, etc. I didn't care, I have a trailer and a tow rig...this trip it paid to have them. I was running a wash and snapped the passenger side u bolts, puncturing the tire and leaving the truck not driveable. I don't even think a trail repair would have gotten me to drive this out.

truckhaven046Medium.jpg


I still got a good weekend of wheeling out of this truck and still had the attitude that I could leave it behind if something happened to it for how cheap I bought it.

Still considering the Dana 44 I have sitting at my house, I decided that I didn't want to give up the speed. I visited Autofab while in San Diego and John was a very cool guy for discussing a truck he built probably over ten years ago. It was at that point I decided to go forward with the original intention.

One trip to Truckhaven with some new updates such as 33x12.50s instead of 33x9.50s, new spring pack to replace the original 11 leaf spring under pack (which raised the rear of the truck nearly 5" from the tired pack), new brakes, auxilay fuse panel, the bumper from my 94 got me excited making it look like a whole new truck.

DSC_0537_resize.jpg


It was at this point I got bit bad by the bug. I needed new shocks, the rear was just too bouncy, I was going fast and am madly in love with the lady who loves to ride shotgun so now 2 lives needed to be protected and lots of stuff needed to be fixed to keep up with this speed.

Well, 6 months in the fab shop, the truck has just had it's first run with the "new" setup.
IMGA0088.JPG


So here is the breakdown

Engine
Ford 4.0
KKM filter
stainless intake
hypertech chip
headers
exhaust

Transmission
C5 3 speed built by Mogi Enterprises with all C4 internals
reverse valve bodied (an auto but you need to manually shift)
Art Carr shifter
B&M tranny pan
91009.jpg



Transfer Case
Stock pushbutton transfer case (button in a not-so-stock dash)
spaced back since C5 tranny is much shorter than stock, retaining stock front driveline length

Front End
Dana 35 TTB, AutoFab kit (the $3600 kit before shocks!!!) inlcudes extended radius arms, tranny crossmember, triple shock mount (1 behind, 2 in front) currently running Rancho 5000s but 3 of them keep it in control
16" of wheel travel approx 6" of raised height over stock
4.56 gears-no locker (don't want one)
warn manual hubs
5/8" wheel studs
limiting straps
"Winter" mods on inner axle shaft and passage

IMG_6834.jpg

IMG_6836.jpg


Rear End
Ford 9" built by Currie, fully trussed
4.56 gears w/ Detroit quick lock
Disc brakes, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, 2 piece rotors (see writeup)
5/8" wheel studs
Valley Spring Service 11 leaf spring under leaf pack
Total Chaos low profile u-bolt retention plates
King 3.0 16" travel triple bypass piggyback shocks
Aftermarket Shackles
Wilwood brake proportioning valve

IMGA0089.JPG

IMGA0091.JPG


Wheels/tires
I've ran several setups, currently running 35" BFG Krawlers on 15x10 steel wheels.

Other Exterior
Perry's 2000 conversion front end, 6" pull fiberglass
4 pin removable fiberglass hood
autofab prerunner front bumper
Dannyboy's designed rear bumper/2" receiver
Rock sliders
2-8" 130 watt driving lights
4 rocklights mounted 2' behind each wheel
DSC_0538_resize.jpg

DSC_0813.jpg

IMGA0092.JPG


Cage

HUNTER OFFROAD custom built roll cage-www.hunteroffroad.com
*all interior gutted for tight fit
*in-cargo shock mount for King shocks
*4 bucket seats incorporated and tied into cage
*ties into frame in 6 positions
*ties into body in 16 positions
*spreader bars
*A-pillar support (required windshield removal)
*1.75" steel and 1.5" (approx 130 feet total)
*Hi-lift Jack mounts, spare front/rear driveshafts, shovel, fire extinguisher mounts
Picture008medium.jpg

fd_001_Medium_.jpg

IMG_6839.jpg

IMG_6842.jpg



Other work by Hunter Offroad
* removable Aluminum dash assembly
* custom built door skins (required with cage side support tubework
* hood pins for 4 pin removable hood
fd_017_Medium_.jpg

fd_007_Medium_.jpg

IMG_6847.jpg

IMG_6838.jpg

fd_008_Medium_.jpg




Interior
4 Corbeau bucket seats
4 Crow 5 point wrap-around harnesses
Auto Meter instrumentation gauges (Tach, Speedo, Oil pressure, Water, Fuel, Voltage, Transmission Temp) see writeup
12 Position Auxiliary fuse panel (see writeup)
Kenwood Receiver
Sirius Stiletto dash mount
Garmin Extrex Legend dash mount
CB radio
Full Recovery & Safety Gear + tools, parts


IMG_6846.jpg

IMG_6840.jpg

fd_016_Medium_.jpg

IMGA0079.JPG

91012.jpg

91011.jpg

fd_014_Medium_.jpg

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Here is my 3 step process to access all tools/cargo until I get a tire carrier of some sort built
tools/camping chairs/spare parts safely secured
fd_001_Medium_.jpg


Spare fluids in tote that securely fits under shock mount.
fd_002_Medium_.jpg


Tire just barely fits with 10PSI
fd_019_Medium_.jpg







Not sure where to list this, but I installed my Willwood proportioning valve to get the rear braking under control, can adjust front/rear brake distribution from the drivers seat
fd_015_Medium_.jpg


ROCK ON! Thanks for looking.
4wheelin042Large.jpg
 



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anybody from So Cal want to grab the engine in this pic and the tires on that truck, deliver to me and swap out my engine?

Just thought I'd ask...

Good luck trying to find that truck! You're probably shaving with parts of it.:D
 






I can get it as far as T-haven for ya:p:
 






Danny, I can get it to Tucson, from TH if your not headed to TH.. Thats only around 180miles from ya.

~Mark
 






Danny, I can get it to Tucson, from TH if your not headed to TH.. Thats only around 180miles from ya.

~Mark

^can someone delete Marks post? :p: He's missing the point


we want to see Danny one more time before he's locked down:D
 


















Umm... no..

BUT, if you need a motor to rebuild before you take yours out.. I have my old motor (more a short block now) sitting here.. Its your free is you want it..

Just take it and rebuild that one while you can still drive yours (I'm assuming you fixed the brakes already)

~Mark
 












updateage- Now that it's not super hot here and i finished my house projects (which was a huge task this summer) it's time to turn attention back to the Explorer.

Nobody is going to buy this and need to swap in the engine so I decided it's time to get things done that have been sitting for the summer.

1st- fixed the caliper mount after a lot of calls and measuring what specialty parts I have. Also ran and bent up a new brake line.

DSC01051.jpg


Then I decided while I had some down time to drill out the rusted bolts on my limit strap and rear trailing arm. Bad idea. I was not able to penetrate this with the most expensive drill bit the hardware store had to offer. So when all house fails, light **** on fire. The cutoff wheel ended up getting these bolts, they were rusted solid in place. Now I'm trying to find a replacement bushing if anyone has any suggestions, it's about 1.5" tall, 1.25" deep
DSC010521.jpg


So then it was on to the front to prepare for the motor swap. I picked up this set of orange fenders to replace the glass fenders I abused prior to installing my coil spacers and bump stops.
DSC01034_Medium_.jpg


Then I decided to pull my header panel on the front of the truck. It's going to need to come off anyway, but mine had broken fiberglass where the parking lights and fenders bolt in so I'm going to do a junkyard run. For those interested in a 2nd gen swap onto a first gen, it's really just a stock header panel secured with these 2 "L" channel parts and then that flat piece bolted to the radiator support.
DSC01035_Medium_.jpg


Speaking of radiator support, I have touch up welded mine a few times (it was actually one of the first things I have ever welded) and it continues to rip out the hood pins and corners. This is just likely from rubbing tires into inner fender wells on very rough hits at high speed. I can guarantee that even with the new tires, I will be cycling the suspension w/o coils in place to make sure I won't rub like this because I like the truck looking pretty like when I got it from Joe.

I thought about cutting it all away and going tube front end but I don't see the need. Maybe in the future if I keep the truck and go with a coilover setup I will add an engine cage integrated.

So you fab guys out there, if I keep ripping the thin gauge metal of the radiator support, can I plate the hood pins and corners or would it not be worth it? If so how thick of steel should I use? I'm thinking like this.

DSC01032_Medium_painted.jpg


DSC01033_Medium_painted.jpg


I would cut away some of the sides to get a plate to rework that corner, join it together and basically spread out the weight of the impacts on the corner and hood pins on a much wider surface.

I'd rather do that as I don't see how I would mount all that junk on the fenderwalls and core support if I cut that out to go tubed.

And no, those fenders aren't going to go orange, I actually like the unique baby blue and got to run my first spray gun last weekend. It was so easy, that is actually what spurred the ideas to make it pretty again.

DSC01030_Medium_.jpg
 






hmmmm...wonder where those orange fenders could be from?:scratch:
 






I saw rips on the core support of my Explorer too.

But since the body of your Explorer is already solid mounted through the roll cage, maybe you should just go ahead and extend the cage by adding a simple engine cage. Then you can weld the core support to the engine cage and that should stop the front of the body from moving around.
 






good point Iz. I took some measurements and after test fitting the fenders it would be next to impossible to make it work, too many clearance issues around the corners.

Now if I only had a picture of what to do.
 






Ahah oh. Well if there was room, I was thinking of something simple like this. But you can even make this more effective by extending the two top tubes and connecting them to the "stinger" part of the bumper.
 

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...For the missing bushings, I know my local off road shop carries them as 2 piece...Dependable Offroad is the name but I think you could find them at a shop near you...
 












After I read this, I went and checked mine for rips, looks like I'm good for now:thumbsup: But there is a hairline starting on the driverside maybe.

Danny are you coming out this weekend, or is Mark bringing your stuff back?
 






I would think that 1/8" would be enough to support what you want to do Danny. Anything more than that would be overkill. The plating will help spread the load and and it's a lot easier and cheaper than a tube engine cage, especially if you don't have the need for an engine cage at the moment.
 






that's what I'm thinking. Plus as in my opinion there's no such thing as "a simple engine cage that ties into your existing cage with plans for coilovers" That suddenly becomes "A long drawn out complicated engine cage that supports the weight of your vehicle."

I want something temporary but worthy of working with the existing setup. Now that the ride height has been raised and bump stops in place I doubt the issue would be as bad.

I do however like the cage you posted IZwack, thanks.
 



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so I hit a salvage yard and found a clunker that looked like it spent it's life in a garage, new header panel, grill, nice crystal clear headlights and parking lights. My old header panel has seen better days. I'm going to blame that all on RockRanger :D

It's amazing how much room behind the grill you get in the 1st Gen with a 2nd Gen front clip. The 2nd gen is quite a bit tighter. That will make my hidden winch even more unique when I finally get it installed.

Now that I have 2 fenders and a header panel to paint I guess it's time to start thinking about final color again. The options are
1) the original baby blue
2) wedgewood blue (therefore I don't need to sand/paint the header panel LOL
3) DB1 cast gray
4) the same color as my superduty, a color that was introduced in 2006
5) bass boat sparkly silver
 

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