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Dannyboy's Re-Registry

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anybody from So Cal want to grab the engine in this pic and the tires on that truck, deliver to me and swap out my engine?

Just thought I'd ask...
 



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anybody from So Cal want to grab the engine in this pic and the tires on that truck, deliver to me and swap out my engine?

Just thought I'd ask...

Good luck trying to find that truck! You're probably shaving with parts of it.:D
 






I can get it as far as T-haven for ya:p:
 






Danny, I can get it to Tucson, from TH if your not headed to TH.. Thats only around 180miles from ya.

~Mark
 






Danny, I can get it to Tucson, from TH if your not headed to TH.. Thats only around 180miles from ya.

~Mark

^can someone delete Marks post? :p: He's missing the point


we want to see Danny one more time before he's locked down:D
 


















Umm... no..

BUT, if you need a motor to rebuild before you take yours out.. I have my old motor (more a short block now) sitting here.. Its your free is you want it..

Just take it and rebuild that one while you can still drive yours (I'm assuming you fixed the brakes already)

~Mark
 












updateage- Now that it's not super hot here and i finished my house projects (which was a huge task this summer) it's time to turn attention back to the Explorer.

Nobody is going to buy this and need to swap in the engine so I decided it's time to get things done that have been sitting for the summer.

1st- fixed the caliper mount after a lot of calls and measuring what specialty parts I have. Also ran and bent up a new brake line.

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Then I decided while I had some down time to drill out the rusted bolts on my limit strap and rear trailing arm. Bad idea. I was not able to penetrate this with the most expensive drill bit the hardware store had to offer. So when all house fails, light **** on fire. The cutoff wheel ended up getting these bolts, they were rusted solid in place. Now I'm trying to find a replacement bushing if anyone has any suggestions, it's about 1.5" tall, 1.25" deep
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So then it was on to the front to prepare for the motor swap. I picked up this set of orange fenders to replace the glass fenders I abused prior to installing my coil spacers and bump stops.
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Then I decided to pull my header panel on the front of the truck. It's going to need to come off anyway, but mine had broken fiberglass where the parking lights and fenders bolt in so I'm going to do a junkyard run. For those interested in a 2nd gen swap onto a first gen, it's really just a stock header panel secured with these 2 "L" channel parts and then that flat piece bolted to the radiator support.
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Speaking of radiator support, I have touch up welded mine a few times (it was actually one of the first things I have ever welded) and it continues to rip out the hood pins and corners. This is just likely from rubbing tires into inner fender wells on very rough hits at high speed. I can guarantee that even with the new tires, I will be cycling the suspension w/o coils in place to make sure I won't rub like this because I like the truck looking pretty like when I got it from Joe.

I thought about cutting it all away and going tube front end but I don't see the need. Maybe in the future if I keep the truck and go with a coilover setup I will add an engine cage integrated.

So you fab guys out there, if I keep ripping the thin gauge metal of the radiator support, can I plate the hood pins and corners or would it not be worth it? If so how thick of steel should I use? I'm thinking like this.

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I would cut away some of the sides to get a plate to rework that corner, join it together and basically spread out the weight of the impacts on the corner and hood pins on a much wider surface.

I'd rather do that as I don't see how I would mount all that junk on the fenderwalls and core support if I cut that out to go tubed.

And no, those fenders aren't going to go orange, I actually like the unique baby blue and got to run my first spray gun last weekend. It was so easy, that is actually what spurred the ideas to make it pretty again.

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hmmmm...wonder where those orange fenders could be from?:scratch:
 






I saw rips on the core support of my Explorer too.

But since the body of your Explorer is already solid mounted through the roll cage, maybe you should just go ahead and extend the cage by adding a simple engine cage. Then you can weld the core support to the engine cage and that should stop the front of the body from moving around.
 






good point Iz. I took some measurements and after test fitting the fenders it would be next to impossible to make it work, too many clearance issues around the corners.

Now if I only had a picture of what to do.
 






Ahah oh. Well if there was room, I was thinking of something simple like this. But you can even make this more effective by extending the two top tubes and connecting them to the "stinger" part of the bumper.
 

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...For the missing bushings, I know my local off road shop carries them as 2 piece...Dependable Offroad is the name but I think you could find them at a shop near you...
 












After I read this, I went and checked mine for rips, looks like I'm good for now:thumbsup: But there is a hairline starting on the driverside maybe.

Danny are you coming out this weekend, or is Mark bringing your stuff back?
 






I would think that 1/8" would be enough to support what you want to do Danny. Anything more than that would be overkill. The plating will help spread the load and and it's a lot easier and cheaper than a tube engine cage, especially if you don't have the need for an engine cage at the moment.
 






that's what I'm thinking. Plus as in my opinion there's no such thing as "a simple engine cage that ties into your existing cage with plans for coilovers" That suddenly becomes "A long drawn out complicated engine cage that supports the weight of your vehicle."

I want something temporary but worthy of working with the existing setup. Now that the ride height has been raised and bump stops in place I doubt the issue would be as bad.

I do however like the cage you posted IZwack, thanks.
 



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so I hit a salvage yard and found a clunker that looked like it spent it's life in a garage, new header panel, grill, nice crystal clear headlights and parking lights. My old header panel has seen better days. I'm going to blame that all on RockRanger :D

It's amazing how much room behind the grill you get in the 1st Gen with a 2nd Gen front clip. The 2nd gen is quite a bit tighter. That will make my hidden winch even more unique when I finally get it installed.

Now that I have 2 fenders and a header panel to paint I guess it's time to start thinking about final color again. The options are
1) the original baby blue
2) wedgewood blue (therefore I don't need to sand/paint the header panel LOL
3) DB1 cast gray
4) the same color as my superduty, a color that was introduced in 2006
5) bass boat sparkly silver
 

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