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Dreamr's 5.0 top end build up

dreamr

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If you pulled the trans lines, trans mount, driveshafts, etc you could pull the entire drivetrain out of the car, but it requires a hoist :)
Mine was $75 floor model from a Checker.
After borrowing one about 3 times I finally added one to the collection.
But nice work so far, looks like its coming along very nicely

I thought about renting a hoist, but the way my floor is it wouldn't work easily. The car sits 4" lower than the area in front of the car.......

Thanks for the kind words.
 


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dreamr

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day 9

Tightened tranny and motor mounts

Change oil pan sensor gasket

Pulled lifters

Pulled old camshaft

17_out_with_the_cam.JPG


Installed TF cam (I used soooooooo much assembly goop:eek: )

18_in_with_the_cam.JPG


Installed new lifters

Machined cam thrust plate (need to get the clearances back into spec, and counter sink the screw holes)

Installed new timing set

19_new_timing_set_and_lifters.JPG


Installed timing cover

Torqued oil pan

Installed water pump

20_timing_cover_and_water_pump.JPG


Connected steering rag joint

Installed master cylinder

new_master_cylinder.JPG


Installed harmonic balancer

Installed timing indicator and smog bracket

Mounted wiring brackets (under engine)

Installed Chassis X-Brace
 




410Fortune

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could be running soon eh? hehehe

I know the drill, trying to get time to work on stuff, but some days you cruise, some a little snag can cost a whole day.

AS for the floor 4" higher in front of the car you could lift the front of the car up 4"
and then small ramp for backing the hoist up
Or pull from the side?

My powerbuilt hoist will get the sucker up and over the front of my BII with out deflating the tires, and thats 5" lift and 33" tires.
 








dreamr

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Hmm so after I am done carving my Jac o' Lantern it's time to test fit the heads....I think I have it all figured, but aid me.....


My questions

Piston to valve clearance checks
-silly putty on piston turn engine and measure valve mark if any
-do I check all valves, And do I have to have all the geometry checked and set on the valetrain first?

Pushrod length check
-seems easy enough any tips?

Lifter pre load
-how do I measure this. It is mentioned in my Chilton's, but not in my Trick Flow info

Rocker lash and geometry
-Part of this is in the pushrod, but how tight do I crank it down?????
 




dreamr

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Hmm so I pm'ed a couple of you folks with preload questions.....Then I found a good write up on Crane Cams web site.......

Heads have been test fitted
Piston to Valve clearance was checked and fine (not too big of surprise considering the heads are advertised to clear a .540 lift and this is .499 / .510)

I also think the pushrods are the right lengths so we are good to go. Tomorrow I will install the heads and double check pushrod lengths before getting any further though.
 




dreamr

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Well now where am I on this project?

Last night I did all the test fitting as mentioned above.

The spark plugs cleared the headers fair, but man they seem long compared to my stockers. They protrude into the chamber about the same distance as the stock plugs in the stock heads, but they seem long to me... Below is a picture or two.....hehe look at them pretty valves..:D

21_header_fitting.JPG

22_valves.JPG


Tonight I got the heads installed and torqued down....well for the first time. I did have to re-use one stock stud as the ARP bolts would not help me mounting a bracket. Folowing the head install of course came the valvetrain. I got everything installed and adjusted......everything sure seems simpler as I am doing it than when I am thinking of doing it in th future :rolleyes:

It would appear that the kit did have adequate length pushrods. Below are a couple pictures (top) showing the roller tip position at full close, and one
(#2) showing a valve at full open. It is not perfectly centered on the valve stem, but it is pretty dang close,,,, Last pic is just heads and valvetrain installed.

drive_rocker_full_close.JPG

pass_rocker_full_open.JPG

23_valvetrain_up_2.JPG


Then since I was still feeling frisky I went ahead and installed the headers using my very nifty new Britax header bolts....
*Note* the valve covers are just sitting there to keep crap out of the heads

24_headers_installed.JPG

25_days_end.JPG
 




dreamr

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:D I took today off as it is the Samhain Sabbat, but then I found myself in the garage anyway :D

I did not do much though...
- checked all the torque settings from last night
- installed wiring to rear of head and thermactor crossover pipe
- A little touch up painting and cleaning
- and lastly tore down the old lowerr intake and set up the new lower.

The ACT sensor was an issue though. First I could not get it out without the impact, then I found it very very gummy. Called Shucks and they had one in stock, thugh it was a cheap neihoff plastic one vs. Motorcraft metal. This was installed though the actual sensor does not extend all the way in to the air passage as it does on the stock intake. (The runners are much thicker on the new one)

Why does Accel always make their crap yellow? Blue would typically indicate 24 lb injectors yellow/orange for 19 lb on a ford, but no Accel makes all their injectors yellow :rolleyes: Gads I hate the color yellow! Almost as much as orange!

Also another note on the PP intake. The threads all had to be re-tapped, and the pcv hole does not have a shelf to hold the crankcase filter basket as the stock intake did. Hopefully it will stay in place untill the oil can glue it in. The instruction recommended using "pipe dope" on all of the sensors. I have no idea what that is unless it's that yummy green stuff I am not allowed to put in my pipe any more, so I used the ARP thread sealer.....figured what the hell...

If no one has any advice that requires me to wait to install the intake I will do so after Samhain activities have desisted.

lower_intake_set_-up.JPG
 




dreamr

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Alrighty then, I got the lower intake mounted and started to connect all of the wiring.

Then I figured I would prep the upper intake. Here I ran into an issue though.
See the crappy diagrams, and I will go on below

Stock Intake
Upper_intake_house_routing.JPG


Typhoon Intake
typhoon_vacuum.JPG


You should note that they provide fittings to use 4 of the designated 6 ports.
As you can see the fittings are all different

Now there are two small vaccum lines for the FPR and MAP. These were connected to seperate nipples under the stock intake. The directions for the typhoon recommend putting these into the hole on a "t" at the port "a" on the typhoon. Me I am inclined to hook them in where they were previously as noted in my typhoon painting.

There is also a vacuum line to port "s" on the firewall tree. this is not an issue and plugs in where designated.

The hose from the PCV also plugs in in the same place as stock, though they have eliminated hose #8 which ran from the other side of the PCV port to the front of the intake.

Now I am left with #9 which runs across the engine bay to the smog equipment. There is no fitting or notes regarding this line in the instructions.
I could extend the line and run it to the port labeled FPR on the typhoon diagram and move the MAP and FPR lines to port A on the tee, or I could run this line to port B......

Any suggestions for tomorrows work?
 




Trckmagik

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Great work thus far. I look forward to seeing the finished project.
 




410Fortune

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welcome to my world :)
I went through this when I put the GT-40 upper into a 88 Bronco II where a 4.0L once sat using 88 emissions sensors and EVAP system :)

You can figure it out, basically everything is getting manifold vacuum, its just from where and how.

Your Evap system should likely go to port B, keep the FPR and MAP lines seperate if you can. POrt B is closer to the throttle body, a better place for the EVAP system to vent
 




Turdle

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Dreamr
since I have that very same intake manifold, I will gladly share how mine is routed. I can e-mail pics, or just go thru it if you want.
 




dreamr

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Thanks everyone...

I had a dream last night that I had failed to add in them little tabs that go around the exhaust gas port on the lower intake gasket.....

Ya know what? I went out just to check and they were under my shop manual on the workbench :rolleyes: The lower will be coming back off tonight....besides I don't think I had enough black goop at the rear end anyway lol.

Dreamr
since I have that very same intake manifold, I will gladly share how mine is routed. I can e-mail pics, or just go thru it if you want.

I would love to see/hear how you routed yours :D Post up them pics or just info since pics are likely hard to get behind the manifold :p


What 410 says makes sense about the evap line and the sensors....
 




410Fortune

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well the 2.9L had a charcoal canister and canister purge just like the early 4.0L, the suck line for this sytem came directly from the middle of the throttle body

The GT-40 instake is simialr, except now there is a canister purge and a canister vent solenoid, and the charcoal is back by the gas tank.

My bii uses no charcoal tank anymore, just the vent line to the gas tank goes directly through the canister purge and into the intake manifold.
Its the front port which is the long tube that leads to the center of the manifold, so just behind the throttle body, works fine! I used this one because its as close as I could get to taking manifold vacuum from the TB like the 2.9L and 4.0L did.

My canister VENT solenoid is just hooked up to the wiring harness to fool it for no code, it does nothing.

Just the weight savings alone were worth simplifying the system! hahahaha KIDDING 1 line, 1 solenoid, I hate all that late model EVAP junk
 




Turdle

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OK
using your diagram on bottom

For "4", I installed a large brass T, one to brake booster, other to PCV ( helped to have the 1" spacer)
port "S" to evap
"MAP" port looks good ( mine is plugged, don't use MAP)
Port marked "FPR" is actually running HVAC controls on mine
"A" I have split with a small brass T 1 line vacuum guage, 1 line EGR solenoid
"B" is FPR on mine

Hope this helps
 




dreamr

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OK
using your diagram on bottom

For "4", I installed a large brass T, one to brake booster, other to PCV ( helped to have the 1" spacer)
port "S" to evap
"MAP" port looks good ( mine is plugged, don't use MAP)
Port marked "FPR" is actually running HVAC controls on mine
"A" I have split with a small brass T 1 line vacuum guage, 1 line EGR solenoid
"B" is FPR on mine

Hope this helps


Thanks JT

I will work on getting the lower off and back on then get this upper set up tonight or later tomorrow.......


By the way, I noticed on your registry thread that your phenolic spacer was the gt-40/Cobra style intake ports versus the Edlebrock /Typhoon style... was that photo just because or did you actually use the different part?
 




Turdle

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Thanks JT

I will work on getting the lower off and back on then get this upper set up tonight or later tomorrow.......


By the way, I noticed on your registry thread that your phenolic spacer was the gt-40/Cobra style intake ports versus the Edlebrock /Typhoon style... was that photo just because or did you actually use the different part?

Good eye, I was wondering when someone would catch it.

I was going to use that stock manifold, then I found the Typhoon at the last minute
 




dreamr

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Damn it is hard to get anything done when you have to work and raise a child :confused:


But really I think it is time that I changed the way I list things. See I have been saying what I have done, now it is time to start looking at what I need to do still:D
- finish organizing the wire if possible :eek:
- Install new radiator
- radiator hoses
- Drill passenger side valve cover for oil fill neck
- Install fan and fan shroud
- connect headers to h-Pipe
- fill all the fluids
- pre lube valvetrain and secure valve covers
- Bolt down air intake assembly
- plug in the battery and start up

then of course we get into that stage................

I am getting there slowly
below are a few pics of things as they have progresed. Note that in the last photo I was just mocking stuff up to check how all the vacuum and wire lengths would be. This is now a big assembly in the trunk to bolt down later.:p:

Also all that shiny aluminum doesn't look all that shiny with my dirty greasy hand prints all over it.....I'll finish the detail of the engine bay after I have it running good and finsih this thread off with a glow ;)

lower_intak_installed.JPG


accessories_installed.JPG


mock-up.JPG
 




410Fortune

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DUDE

Seriously

It's worth it, I think you are going to have some power


Nice work
 


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dreamr

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DUDE

Seriously

It's worth it, I think you are going to have some power


Nice work

Thanks

So far so good and I am pleased as it is coming together.

As to power well hehehe this is stage 1 of 3 ;)
Next comes stroker. (after tranny and rear end etc......)
thern comes blower of course that all is spaced over 3-4 years :mad:
 




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