Dreamr's 5.0 top end build up

[Turdle]

Here is how I got mine to hang lower
I followed BBK's adjustment procedure again

Close IAC adjustment all the way
Back off idle adjuster all the way
adjust in on idle adjust screw just until it makes contact, then 1 1/2 turn in
Adjust TPS to .89v
Start engine-- use IAC screw to achieve desired idle speed-readjust when it reaches operating temp.

Now, with a cam, you will get improvement if you drill a 1/8" hole in the throttle body plate.

 

[dreamr]

Here is how I got mine to hang lower
I followed BBK's adjustment procedure again

Close IAC adjustment all the way
Back off idle adjuster all the way
adjust in on idle adjust screw just until it makes contact, then 1 1/2 turn in
Adjust TPS to .89v
Start engine-- use IAC screw to achieve desired idle speed-readjust when it reaches operating temp.

Now, with a cam, you will get improvement if you drill a 1/8" hole in the throttle body plate.

Hmm my tb does not have the IAC adjustment. Likely this is why I thought of the IAC plate when you started the Underhood bug thread. Perhaps I need to pick one up...... I seem to have everything else mostly ironed out. I am still getting the low idle code, but realistically I do not want the car to idle higher or it will pull on the breaks coming to a stop. This was an occasional problem with ~ 100 hp less (guestimate....TF estimates 350 @ crank on a stock bottom but I went a touch bigger on intake stuff than their test car).

I do have to go back in to adjust valves on I think cylinder 1 and 3 (stethescope game played here). I also seem to be leaking oil in the area of the rear driver side. It appears to be the head, but I can't see til I tear it down. That does not surprise me as it was assembled during a cold snap. A few complete warmups and they head bolts probably loosened up a bit and need re-torqued. Or the lower intake in that corner perhaps.......

 

[Turdle]

Hmm my tb does not have the IAC adjustment. Likely this is why I thought of the IAC plate when you started the Underhood bug thread. Perhaps I need to pick one up...... I seem to have everything else mostly ironed out. I am still getting the low idle code, but realistically I do not want the car to idle higher or it will pull on the breaks coming to a stop. This was an occasional problem with ~ 100 hp less (guestimate....TF estimates 350 @ crank on a stock bottom but I went a touch bigger on intake stuff than their test car).

I do have to go back in to adjust valves on I think cylinder 1 and 3 (stethescope game played here). I also seem to be leaking oil in the area of the rear driver side. It appears to be the head, but I can't see til I tear it down. That does not surprise me as it was assembled during a cold snap. A few complete warmups and they head bolts probably loosened up a bit and need re-torqued. Or the lower intake in that corner perhaps.......

I'll tell you what
I really don't think it helps on mine, for just this reason. My BBK throttle body has an IAC adjustment on it. I think this plate in place is a redundancy.
If you want, I'll take it off, and send it to you. ( if indeed this is so)
I am pretty sure SVO doesn't need it back.

I think it might help yours--

 

[dreamr]

I'll tell you what
I really don't think it helps on mine, for just this reason. My BBK throttle body has an IAC adjustment on it. I think this plate in place is a redundancy.
If you want, I'll take it off, and send it to you. ( if indeed this is so)
I am pretty sure SVO doesn't need it back.

I think it might help yours--

You all are to cool!

I would gladly give it a try....

Once I get the valve chatter gone and torques checked I really want to drive it

It seems a bit scary to have the idle hang up there, but I imagine the engine can co-operate around the neighborhood...... Now that it has cooled back down a bit I'll go tear into it......So on the valves that are still ticking......can I just go in and tighten them another 1/8 to 1/4 turn? Or do I once again need to roll under the car to turn it over again and again?

 

[Turdle]

You all are to cool!

I would gladly give it a try....

Once I get the valve chatter gone and torques checked I really want to drive it

It seems a bit scary to have the idle hang up there, but I imagine the engine can co-operate around the neighborhood...... Now that it has cooled back down a bit I'll go tear into it......So on the valves that are still ticking......can I just go in and tighten them another 1/8 to 1/4 turn? Or do I once again need to roll under the car to turn it over again and again?

Are you absolutely sure a rocker might not be tapping a valve cover, on the inside?
Seems to happen at #4 and #5==where do you hear the tappet?
do you have baffles inside the covers which hang low?

just curious
pm your address--ok?

 

[dreamr]

I am pretty sure that a rocker is not hitting anythng. I am using 1.6 rockers with a slightly taller than stock valve cover as well as TF's increased flange height.......all in all I should be fine, and there is no evidence of contact. Further more the noise is deffinately not a surface contact noise as it is present with the covers off and the car running. When I was playing with the stethescope I marked the spots on the valve cover with a marker where the sounds were loudest. When I popped the valve cover I lined it up and adjusted accordingly. I probably should have gone back through the process, but one was a bit looser than I remember, so I give it and the other potential culprits another 1/8 or more turn.


you have a PM

 

[dreamr]

well now I new assembly went too easy, now it's the bugs.

Though I continue to tinker the above hanging idle is still present.

Overall idle is pretty smooth, but it shudders mildly now and again, though so do most cars......

The rear head bolt had looesened up so all were re-torqued.

valves ....well it gets quieter and quiter, but I still hear a bit of valvetrain noise

oil leak.....so I thought I was just loosing a little from the aforementioned head.......turns out that if I would have looked under the car while it was runnng I would have found the culprit to be a bit broader in scope. There is a steady stream of drips running down the face of the tranny from somewhere....it is fresh clean motor oil as well so It is something I did somewhere. I suspect the rear seal on the oil pan and that the crank is fliging oil through the gap........although that is no easy task, it is the lesser of evils for sure!!!!! Once she cools down I'll start to investigate.......... perhaps it's time for a mechanic with a lift. With the limited access I had to the oil pan in the rear I am not sure I can get it much better.

 

[dreamr]

so, does a 1/8th inch gap in a 2" long section of oil pan constitute a vacuum leak????

2 days and several pints of my blood later I have the pan end seal re-seated properly, but I was curious if this affected vaccuum?

 

[Turdle]

Naw
It may however allow unmetered air in thru PCV system.

Also, it might cause a mess!!

 

[410Fortune]

yes if the crank case is not sealed it will effect your manifold vacuum, just like a PCV or dipstick tube missing, at least in my head it does Maybe I am mistaken?
I know its not good!

what happened did the gasket fall over or something?

 

[Turdle]

yes if the crank case is not sealed it will effect your manifold vacuum, just like a PCV or dipstick tube missing, at least in my head it does Maybe I am mistaken?
I know its not good!

what happened did the gasket fall over or something?

The PCV valve opens only at low vacuum-full throttle type situations,
An oil seal leak would allow air to be sucked in, instead of thru crankase breather--get it? It would be un metered--but not a vacuum leak.

 

[410Fortune]

like I said you build the engines I'll help with everything else! hahaha
yes that makes sense

 

[Turdle]

like I said you build the engines I'll help with everything else! hahaha
yes that makes sense

I am learning these things right along with you guys
we are the experts--I say this collectively.
Alone-we are nothing.

 

[rookieshooter]

I am learning these things right along with you guys
we are the experts--I say this collectively.
Alone-we are nothing.

 

[dreamr]

Cool, In theory I knew there had to be something with air

The seal at the humped end of the pan had slipped out of it's groove during install. It is fixed though.

When I started it though the idle had dropped 200 rpm and the hanging idle had reduced in rpm as well as duration, thougth it is still present. Interestingly enough I am producing less vaccuum now but only by an inch.

 

[dreamr]

Hehe

Brenda and I got to go for her maiden voyage today........






Observations:

The hanging idle is a bit scary. I can not stop her easily unless I put her in neutral which in turn makes the rpm jump to 1800 Hopefully that IAC adjuster plate can correct this.

I think I am lacking in the go juice department.......she just doesn't feel all that responsive. Potentially a bit less than stock.... Obviously I did not really run her to see what the 3K and up feel like, but 1k-3k indicates I still have a lot of tuning to do...

So where do I start? I am not getting any detonation so I can feed in a nother degree or two of timing. Fuel is at 39psi (stock) should I go up a bit?

 

[JDraper]

Hehe

Brenda and I got to go for her maiden voyage today........








Observations:

The hanging idle is a bit scary. I can not stop her easily unless I put her in neutral which in turn makes the rpm jump to 1800 Hopefully that IAC adjuster plate can correct this.

I think I am lacking in the go juice department.......she just doesn't feel all that responsive. Potentially a bit less than stock.... Obviously I did not really run her to see what the 3K and up feel like, but 1k-3k indicates I still have a lot of tuning to do...

So where do I start? I am not getting any detonation so I can feed in a nother degree or two of timing. Fuel is at 39psi (stock) should I go up a bit?

Depending upon the cam, heads and exhaust, you may not have gained much on the bottom end, but gained up top.

Where do you start? On a dyno!! You need to see what your a/f ratios are and what the torque and hp curves look like before you go much farther. If your a/f ratio is off, you can possibly damage the motor pretty quickly.

If you do put it on a dyno, the best way to get accurate a/f ratios is to get a bung welded into the exhaust in front of the cats and use a heated 02 sensor for measurements. A good dyno facility will know all this and hook you up right. Some of the 'lesser' facilities just use a tailpipe sniffer to do a/f, and that's not nearly as accurate as the heated 02 sensor.


On Edit...are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? That would account for the hanging idle and low power...

 

[dreamr]

On Edit...are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? That would account for the hanging idle and low power...

I do need to do a dyno indeed... I just want to get it as close as possible beforehand.

As to vacuum leaks.....perhaps but I cannot find it. Vaccuum reading seem to be a bit on the low side, but I have as of yet not been able to find specs as to what to exspect with the cam in question. The propane test have shown nothing either.......

I ran the KOEO and KOER as well as cylinder balance again

KOEO was clear as was constant memory

KOER
12 idle high
13 idle low
25 no knock detected during dynamic self test
46 Thermactor diverter not functioning
54 .....I can't find this in my books

CYLINDER BALANCE
passed all three runs with even numbers

Timing is still odd to me.
Base is now at 14 But when I plug the spout connector back in it only jumps a few degrees rather than up to the ford spec 32-36. For some reason the CPU is not advancing the timing which could indeed account for my perceived power loss.....I really have no idea how to fix this...Any ideas

 

[rookieshooter]

Dreamr I'm interested in knowing the cam's profile. Can you post when the intakes and exhaust opens and closes BTDC and ATDC. I'm mainly interested when the ex. valve closes and the intake opens during the exhaust stroke. I have had some really wild grinds on the bumpstick that I'd hardly had enough vacum for my brake booster. Now this was in the "Old days" when cams had funny sounding French names like "Supper La Garra Magnum" sp. LOL

 

[dreamr]

Cam Timing @.050
Intake: Opens 3.0 BTDC /Closes at 38 abdc / max lift 108/ duration 221
Exhaust: Opens @49 BBDC ? closes at 4.0 BTDC / Max lift 116 / duration 225