I'm gonna bump this with some 'upgrades' that I've done to show what hasn't worked so well in my setup. For those that are researching pay attention.
The first carnage happened on the second Test run. Not sure if it was due to a bad weld, or just the fact that the bracket was welded on backwards and interfering w/ the control arm (all Tri-countys work). I welded it right there since even w/ a BFH it didn't want to return back to where it was.
Not pictured: Out at Superstition Mt. for New years one of the steering U-joints threw a cap (just out of the blue, at 45 mph). So I got to take apart the front end for the first time.
At Truckhaven '04 I bent my tie rod. It was 1.25 .120 wall Chromoly. The reason it bent is that at full lock it would rub my track bar, and I assume that one of the times it was doing this I put enough pressure on it to bow it out. And from there it just got worse. I then made a replacement by sleeving a piece of 1.25 with 1.5 and putting the required bends at the end to clear the pumpkin and other bracketry.
I have since taken out one of the two bends in my track bar, eliminating the interaction between the two. You can also see my new diff protection in this pic. Took me a while to find something that would work with both the electrac cover, and the half ring that the axle came with to help support the upper control arm mount. I found a very basic diff guard on ebay, and at $55 I figured it was worth it, and modified it to fit my needs.
At the AZ '04 run I pulled the lower front sleeve that mounts the steering box out of the frame. The inside weld cracked (note that I had fixed this earlier, but it did it again) and with only the outside holding it in place it proceded to bend and tear the frame until the box sheered all 3 grade 8 bolts holding it in place. Broke out the welder for the 2nd time on the trail, and rewelded the sleeve in, and worked over a scrap piece of metal to use to reinforce the frame. Luckily I had thrown in my spares box the three grade 5 bolts that I had temped the box in with. I have since fixed up the trail mod to look like so:
Last weekend at Big Bear I broke a steering knuckle. I got to break out the welder yet again, and learn how to weld to cast. Took me two tries, but the second job held long enough to get it to pavement and grab a tow home. I didn't feel like risking my life at 75 mph to my welding job on a cast piece.
For whatever reason Tri-county put (what I think are) CJ/SJ knuckles on my axle. Ever since I got my axle I couldn't figure out why I couldn't use a straight tie rod. Now I know. These knuckles are designed to only have to clear a D30. (and a leaf sprung one at that)
Here's a few comparisons of the broken pass. side knuckle (welded up) or drivers side knuckle, and a stock Chevy D44 knuckle.
I'm still in the process of switching over to the chevy knuckle, but it looks like new steering linkage is in order (a straight tie rod this time

) and haven't decided if I want to do high steer and redo my track bar or not, but I have a set of flat top knuckles already headed my way if i do.
I've now realized that there needs to be a week link in the steering. (otherwise something major like breaking a knuckle will continue to happen) Here is my latest design:
I figure I'll just stock up on 43" pieces of 1" conduit and a few rolls of duct tape and I'll never break anything major again.
