My Quest for 13.XX version 1

[techieman33]

I'm interested as to how much removing the front drive shaft will do. I've read on here it doesn't do much to increase mileage if it's removed, but I wonder how it increases times....:scratch:

It won't do anything for the AWD but I don't think anyone here really knows what it will do for his 4406.

 

[JMan689]

It won't do anything for the AWD but I don't think anyone here really knows what it will do for his 4406.

Well if he has true 2wd, then all it should do is drop a few lbs.

 

[chriswells78]

I can't see the front drive shaft doing too much, it is spinning by the force of the front wheels rolling so it is adding a smidgeon of rolling resistance, removing the extra 15lbs would probably be the biggest benefit from it's removal. If you could dis-engage the front hubs it would probably help you tons in the rolling resistance department.

I still think a 4:10 and a smaller rear tire would help you tremendously. Also, what do you have your shift points set at? I'm sure your power band is nice and high, even with the cam retarded a bit. You have a beefed up valve train and bottom end so you should be able to wind that motor out pretty good if you need to.

Don't you have data logging software? You should be running it when you make a pass, that would help you jog your memory and see where things are after the run. It's humanly impossible to remember what all of the guages are doing when your making a pass.

 

[jah81592]

James - A single 3" is good for a 347 stroker motor? I still can't agree with this all the way, but you do know your stuff. I believe duals are the only way to get the full potential of the 347 but that's my opinion only. I'm not suggesting a change here but it would make it easier to get to the goal.

I'll get to the track as soon as I get the fuel lines fixed.

I tune LSx vehicles all the time with 400+ cu.in engines which commonly make 480-500hp to the wheels. Run low elevens with a single 3" exhaust.-j

I think that more tuning will be needed but right now he just needs to make lots of passes down the track to learn how to drive it. No offense to Jon but I would bet a good chunk of money that his driving had a big effect on those times.

I agree completely! As I stated previously I believe just learning to drive the truck will yield at least a .5 reduction in the 1/4. Dont remove the driveshaft, just learn to drive. The more trips down the track the better you learn launch rpm,etc. Just drive for now and learn the truck. I wouldn't change anything.

I've always said this but others just didn't understand it. (HP WILL WIN OVER TORQUE)

If you really understand what's going on you'll agree, but you have those that are set that a high torque motor is faster.

Your torque can start to reduce up top HOWEVER, HP is a measurement of how fast the work is being done. If the work is being done faster, then who cares anymore about torque.

NOW - there has to be a happy medium to get you off the line. Also, for trails a high HP motor is probably not what you're looking for. You don't want to have to rev to the moon to get over a bump.


I wouldn't add more timing until I knew how much you're running at this time. Let us know.

HP will win at the track but you are only looking at one component of the equation. With these heavy beasts you will need more torque than hp to get the truck rolling and recover the shift. I'll eat 20 hp any day to gain 20lb.ft of torque. Especially with a truck. Why do you think my truck has been so brutal in the 1/8th and 1/4mile? Torque BABY! 448 ft.lbs worth with no less than 400lb.ft of torque from 2200-4600rpm.-j

 

[conig]

hp is a derivative of torque so to me there ultimately the same i focus on power. lol

john if it were me i would remove the drive shaft if it weighs 15lbs its actually more like 150lb considering its rotation. it is close to the axis but inertial weight is a big deal. same reason smaller tires help out.

http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253134

 

[CDW6212R]

Torque and horsepower go together, period. HP is a function of torque. For any given torque at an rpm, the horsepower is absolute and cannot be changed.

Given any torque possible, the horsepower is defined by that.

What really matters is the total amount of torque(or horsepower(same thing)), across the rpm band. You want to have the engine running right in the fattest part of the torque/power curve. From the highest torque readings to the highest power readings, that's the rpm band.

With a 3000rpm converter the torque/power under 3000 doesn't matter much for a run. I'm sure Jon has a great curve from about 3000 to 5500rpm.

 

[rocket 5979]

I'm trapping somewhere in the neighbor hood of 110 MPH. Now, I need to go to the track so I can see how far off I am cuss it may be a different story their. Anyways, enough with that.

Trap speed of 110 mph my ass... Maybe on that G-Tech.

 

[Jakee]

Rocket - Here you go again. Believe it or not, I really don't care.

 

[Jakee]

We can argue about torque and HP all day long and everyone has there own opinion about it. I really don't understand why there are opinions either because there are only facts, and those don't understand the facts.

 

[IZwack]

You two should try to get along more often.

 

[rocket 5979]

Rocket - Here you go again. Believe it or not, I really don't care.

Jake it seems that you are getting a little full of yourself lately. Your truck is very respectable but it damn sure isn't trapping 110 in the 1/4. Get some real data (aka not guessing) and you will see what I am talking about. A 110mph trap speed is a low 12 second ET in allot of cars. Do you REALLY think that you went from probably middle high 14's to a low 12 on just 9 psi boost? Do you even have the traction to hook up the power your making to drive it to a decent ET? It seems you require a reality check regardless if it comes from me or from real track data. Your truck will not be a slouch at the track but if you are expecting 110 mph traps and/or low 12's then you are setting yourself up for disappointment. You were a total newb a year ago and now you are trying to talk like some sort of pro? Come on man get a clue; learning this stuff takes time. If I appear like a jerk to you while giving you a much needed reality check then so be it. Ease back a little...

 

[Turdle]

Oh man-please throw me a bone

 

[rocket 5979]

Oh man-please throw me a bone

Jon, buddy I am with the other fellas on this one. Run the truck a little more at the track to get used to it first. The best bang for the buck mod is seat time at the dragstrip in a vehicle with a new combo. Whenever I take a new combo to the strip I think of what ET it should be capable of hitting and then add a second onto that for where I should expect to start out. In my experience it usually seems to hold true. Your truck has more in it man.

 

[FROADER]

I thought HP was the speed I can get my gas pedal from the stop position to the floor, divided by the weight of my foot?

 

[rizzjc]

Jon, buddy I am with the other fellas on this one. Run the truck a little more at the track to get used to it first. The best bang for the buck mod is seat time at the dragstrip in a vehicle with a new combo. Whenever I take a new combo to the strip I think of what ET it should be capable of hitting and then add a second onto that for where I should expect to start out. In my experience it usually seems to hold true. Your truck has more in it man.

Heck, run it down the streets in Humboldt. It didn't look like anyone there would care. :

 

[aldive]

Simple answer .... take it to the track.

 

[IZwack]

Simple answer .... take it to the track.

Or lift it, run some good trails, take in some good scenery and the brotherhood, and never worry about pressing the gas pedal more than a third of the way ever again

[/hijack]

 

[rizzjc]

I still have to go with the streets in Humboldt. Nobody was on them!

 

[techieman33]

I still have to go with the streets in Humboldt. Nobody was on them!

It's not the same though, running a car at the track is different than running it on the street

 

[reserved50]

I agree with rocketeer, needs more bottom end torque, get rid of those silly aluminum torque robbing heads and bolt on some E6s with Super Trapps with all the plates, run an A/F ratio of 10-1 to be on the safe side, this is how races are won. For an intake I would ditch the individual runner idea and run TBI for more torque, its all about torque in these trucks. :biggthump ....shouldnt matter if you run a high stall, its torque or nothing.