RockRangerII the build up. | Page 16 | Ford Explorer Forums

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RockRangerII the build up.

Stic-o said:
I'm Thinking of moving my leafs to the outside of the frame when I go full width. I'm just not sure what springs to use, but the perchs will match up perfect for it on a full width 8.8.

the spring perches on a fullwidht 8.8 do not line up with X springs they are about 2.5" wider than an X 8.8
 



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What is WMS to WMS width is a full width 8.8?
 






offroader_69_me said:
the spring perches on a fullwidht 8.8 do not line up with X springs they are about 2.5" wider than an X 8.8


I know they will line up with the outside of the frame pefectly :D I plan to move the springs to the outside of the frame ;) like a 150, ranger ...ect.

Kirby N said:
What is WMS to WMS width is a full width 8.8?

pretty close to a full width front D44 or rear 9inch
 






ah no more pesky Explorer rear leaf hangers to get snagged up on :)
 






Stic-o said:
I know they will line up with the outside of the frame pefectly :D I plan to move the springs to the outside of the frame ;) like a 150, ranger ...ect.



pretty close to a full width front D44 or rear 9inch
Ahhhhh, is this thread being hijacked again??? ;) :p :cool: :rolleyes: :eek: :confused:
 






BKennedy said:
Ahhhhh, is this thread being hijacked again??? ;) :p :cool: :rolleyes: :eek: :confused:


What are you policing the threads now too :p


Sorry Matt :(


"We now bring you back to your regularly scheduled thread" ;)
 






Kirby N. said:
What is WMS to WMS width is a full width 8.8?


65 1/2 WFS to WFS spring pearchs are 44 3/4 center to center

Now back to Matt's truck :rolleyes:
 






LOL No wonder there are 300+ posts on this thread. I was sick all weekend so I didnt get a chance to work on the truck. I did however cut the front driveshaft in half and picked up a piece of 2.5 x .120 DOM to extend my front driveshaft in true redneck fashion.
 






Well got a chance to work on teh truck this weekend. Filled the front diff wit oild extended my front driveshaft put the tcase skid plate on and got the ebrake hooked up and working. Just need to patch the exhaust back together and I am ready for truckhaven in New years. I also figured out why my brake lights wern't working, ALL the brake light bulbs were burned out :rolleyes: Wonder how long they were like that before I discovered they wernt working.

Only picture I took was teh front driveshaft. I drew a line down the side of it with a marker. Then cut it in half. Then slid a piece of 2.5 x .120 wall tubing over both ends. Measured it out to the length I wanted and welded it together. I tried to keep the line down it as close to strait as possible to help keep the U joints in proper phase. We will see how bad the vibrations are out at thaven over new years.
 

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RockRanger said:
I am ready for truckhaven in New years.
The best part of your post! ;)
 






Just keep it under 20mph if your in 4wd and you'll be fine. I wheeled with a guy in Big Bear who had a 'yota with a square front drive shaft and it worked just fine all day...he just couldn't drive very fast with it in 4wd.
Matt, i'll PM ya about the tubing.
 






Glad to see your rig will be up and running soon. I don't think that front drive shaft will be a problem because the speeds are not high enough, and you are not driving in 4WD on the highway, which is were the vibration will show up.
 






I wouldnt do a rear shaft like that cause of the street vibrations. When I lengthen it when I put my doubler in I will probably do the same thing and sleeve it all the way to the end of the shaft. Add a few plug welds and then the bottom will have close to .250 wall thickness and hopefully should be able to take a few hits on the rocks.
I am ready to go out wheeling again.
 






all the bulbs were out? seriously how does that happen? We are talking what 4?
Nice D shaft :) I wanted to sleeve my front axleshaft like that, all I got was no no no dont do it....a year later I find out people do it all the time and it works FINE.
 






I was shocked as well. I started with the switch on the brake pedel. I was getting power there and the switch was working properly. Then I pulled the tailights and was getting voltage to them as well. Put new bulbs in and it worked. :confused: I am not sure how long I was driving around with no brake lights. I figure they were working at the corral canyon run but somewhere in there they all quit working.

Tracy's dad use to work at a shop that built drivelines so I got great deals. But now that he changed jobs I think I am back to retail on getting drivelines made. :(
 






retails not THAT bad is it? We have a great place here in town, same day service the guys are great.
 






off subject

jamie who do you use for drivetrain work


back to main topic
sorry matt
 






410Fortune said:
retails not THAT bad is it? We have a great place here in town, same day service the guys are great.

New u joints New boot and a rear shaft retube with .188 wall tubing for $30 compared to retail of a few hundred. He still has a few contacts but it makes it hard with him being so far away I will probably have a local shop shorten my rear when I put my doubler in. Cant wait til new years to go whelling again :bounce:

Dont worry about off topic marshall you arent the first to stary in this thread.
 






Front Range Driveline Drive Shafts

Auto Performance, Race & Sport-Equip

4000 S Federal Blvd
Sheridan, CO 80110 - 4466
(303) 783-9954

They don't work on vehicles, just axles, driveshafts, etc...
 



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hows that front driveshaft workin out ?
 






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