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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

Very nice, well done.

Did that truck or any of the dash harness have a remote starter in it before? That splice at the BOO is part of any remote starter, and those connectors are horrible long term(they cut into the existing wire, eventually there is often wire damage).
I think you've got the brakes about solved, getting at the wires is most of the job.

Wasn't there a replacement for the 95-97 3rd brake light that used LED's, or at least not having a ballast?
 



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It might have had something from the previous owner, but I have never seen anything like that on it . I don't remember seeing that splice before, but it could have been there all this time, and I never caught it. Dunno.

Yes, there are leds for it. Once I get the power back to the ballast again, hopefully all will be right again.

I like the neon way better anyways. Love how it looks at night. Not to fond of the led brake lights on all the time, and the parasitic draw from them.
 






Put a jumper on the ballast. The light works fine.

I tested for power to the 4 pin trailer harness connector, and had nothing from any of the pins. So that's not working anymore. I then disconnected the factory tow harness, and tested for power coming out of that, and nothing from all 8 pins there either.

This confirms that the screw up is from the recent harness installed from that shop. After digging a bit more, I see they swapped the 95's relay box, for the 98 relay box under the dash. I think there is a relay there for the brakes, but hear nothing from it when depressing the brake pedal. I stuck my big head under, and placed my ear next to it.

Now that I know the neon light works, I will just install a jumper permanently to it, from one of the brake lights.

So this leaves me to install a new trailer harness, from scratch. This issue is exactly what I feared happening with not knowing what is what, and what was done by that shop. I asked for a diagram, but only got some from the aux acc circuits, ran into a used fuse box, with no lid next to the battery. Open fuse box on a trail rig, hilarious.... not.

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I have decided to go with the Buamann level 2 shift kit. It will be the best choice for this rigs use. Thanks a ton for all the suggestions, and choices here. I never would have known about them, if it wasn't for you guys. Super appreciated!! :)
 






You need a tuner (well not need but you know). Look for a used SCT model SF3 with a serial number starting with XP and your good to go. You can find them used around $200 with a few unlocks remaining. Those models have factory tunes for the v8 allowing you to change shift points and firmness, idle speed, rear o2 sensor/egr delete and tire size to re calibrate speedo (on some explorers). Its also an obd2 reader.

I see some model #3015, but haven't seen any with the serial numbers listed. They also say they are married, and to me, that means they only work with the vehicle that was used on them?? One I am eyeballing now, says 3 unlocks left, but device is married. Will it still work for me??
 






I see some model #3015, but haven't seen any with the serial numbers listed. They also say they are married, and to me, that means they only work with the vehicle that was used on them?? One I am eyeballing now, says 3 unlocks left, but device is married. Will it still work for me??

It costs $150 to unmarry it from sct, I'd definitely look for one unmarried with at least 2 or 3 unlocks left an expect to pay around $200-$250. 3015 is the correct part number and check pics for serial number.

Here's pics of the 2 for my vehicles. They have identical programming.

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Check some mustang forums as well. You’ll see them for sale there, or other truck forums. I’d feel safer buy one from someone on a forum, rather then eBay
 






I've always liked those neon brake lights too. I just have the 98-01 rear hatch, and my 93 on my 99. I wish Ford had changed the 95-97 hatch to the shape of the 98-01, in 1995. Keep at it, let's hope the wiring they changed didn't alter much more than what you've found.
 












Does the new PCM have pats?

Yes, the donor was a Pats EB 98. They did swap all the locks and gave new keys.

I was told the 98 had the tow package, and the 98's tow harness would be installed. They was hired to install a new trailer connector to it.

Included in the job, was to wire in the new smart charge isolater, and install a new brake controller. None of that was done.

So much info was held back, and so many of my questions have gone unanswered. I have no idea why some things was not done, and gone unanswered. I can only assume at this point, as to why. As I finish the job myself, more will be revealed in time, just like this 3rd brake light issue was discovered.
 






The 98-01's have a much different wiring set than the 95-97's, major changes happened for 98, you know.

The body harnesses in these come in many versions, basically trim levels and options being key. I rebuilt my 99 truck using a 2000 EB body harness, because the original harness was ruined, but through in two places near the LF door. I had to make up the Limited memory seat wires, but the rest was virtually the same.

Did they gut your interior to replace your body harness, or the dash maybe I would expect. It's most likely(or most feasible) that they swapped your dash and body harness(plus engine and bay of course). That would require the least modifications to mix harnesses. Hopefully that's what you'll find, that would take the least work/tracing in the future.
 






Dash was removed, but nothing removed past the front seats. They obviously, mixed the harness's.

This is my quandary. Not knowing how the circuits are now, and factory diagrams are not going to be precise, but just help me trace, and search in general by looking at both years. Basically, a setup for migraines.

Speaking of this stuff.... When I was at the JY the other day, and looking at a bunch of 2nd gens, I noticed that some didn't have a hood light. They was either missing, or some just didn't come with one? I never would have thought that was an option.
 






My 98's and the 99 didn't have a hood light.

Can you get to the wiring where they made splices, do you know where they did that? I wonder how they did it, and if it may be worth any further work, or live with what they did.

The number of wires in the body harness is a bunch, that's why I didn't try to repair the cut 99 wires. I kept what was left as spare material, but I didn't use much of that. Here's the front part of the EB harness after I had it about ready to install, with the changes added along it(I didn't take it all open/apart).

Projectthread078.JPG
 






I have no idea yet, where the splice was made. I surmise that I will soon enough.

Next weekend, the rig will be getting the rear lights and the trailer harness worked on, along with the brake controller & the Isolater hooked up. I am sure things will be discovered during this.
 






It's so mix and match trying to put a 98 drivetrain in a 97 and prior. It would been almost plug and play using a 96 or 97 truck and you wouldn't of had near headaches and the shop might of not had as hard of a time from it. Live and learn unfortunately as it's done and running now, you just now have the dumb bugs to work out.
 






I don't think it would have mattered which version was used. Both had pros/cons going into an OBDI vehicle, but that is why this place was hired, as they claimed it to be a non-issue, and a worry free swap. Live & learn is a correct assumption. I trust, until I don't. I believe, until I don't. I don't believe, I trust them anymore. ;)

Been working out these bugs since it returned to me, one item at a time. It's almost there, and will be back on the trails before long. the upgrades/changes seem to never end, so the posts will keep coming, regardless of the pitfalls it faces.
 















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Nope the 3015 I have on my ranger was on my f250 diesel before it got the live wire sct tuner.
 






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