The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

If you have been following this thread for the last month, you know I have been making something for this, finished it, but couldn't install it alone.

There was a couple reasons Kurt visited this weekend, and this wasn't really the reason, but I'm so glad it became one. With his help and ideas, we got it installed by golly. Took us the rest of the day, including a parts run, and and grub breaks. It was a nasty foggy day. We got cold rain for the last hour of the job.

So this is the thing I made. It is a full size Roof basket, with a front light bar. Has built in brackets for the Hi-Lift jack, an Axe, Shovel, Max tracks, and a 270* awning. Made from 1" sq tube, 1" round tube, 1/8" plate, 1/8" expanded metal, A little bit of angles, some steel conduit, and a couple pcs of 16 ga sheet.

This thing is big. Like real big. It's a game changer for how I can pack, and what I can pack for trips. It has 4 times the interior Cubic Ft than the previous basket. Larger (but light) items can be hauled up there, freeing up inside space. It does not block the moonroof, and that is fully functional still. I wanted to keep my emergency exit. lol

It is wired up using electrical conduit that is hidden underneath the basket, and on the light bar. A waterproof 7 pin trailer junction box used for all wiring but the rear view camera. 2 front lights are on until I get a larger light bar to fill the space on the 1" round tube. 2 side lights are mounted with more 1" vertical round tube. Rear view flush mount pods are installed in the rear boxes, that also have AUX power via waterproof SAE plugins.

One of the hardest things with the old basket was loading & unloading it. I decided to make a hinged gate in the back for this. 1/8" plate with full tube framing under it, that is butted up to the expanded metal flooring goes between the boxes, and will be used to slide items into it. The gate has a beefy hing pin made for big steel BBQ smoker lids. It even has a grease zerk. To latch it, two locking clamps was welded on, and the catch's welded onto the side box. It's solid, and doesn't move a bit when closed.

It was primed with weld thru primer everywhere plate went over tube, and between the tube and expanded metal. the entire thing was primed with self etching after all welding was completed. The underside was coated with slow dry oil enamel, and the inside of the rear boxes was sprayed with oil. The top and sides was then coated with 2 coats of 2 part Urethane Raptor Liner. 1st coat was applied with the texture roller. The 2nd coat with a smooth roller. The rear boxes only got a smooth finish.

Ok, so back to the install. The idea for 2 of us to be able to get this thing on top of a rig that has a 7 foot top, without any carnage to it, was Redneck as you can get. BUT... it worked, so it was pure genius. Thanks Professor Kurt.

2"x6"x12' boards staked to the ground, laid on the roof side, and wrapped ends with foam and towels, was used to slide the rack up to the top, then slid across the roof into place. We sprayed the boards with dry lube made for RV window tracks. made a nice slick surface. 2"x4" was screwed to the 4 mount brackets, to slide along the 2"x6". I used 3/4"x 4"x 36" pcs of cutting board material on top of the roof, to slide the 2"x4" under the basket across the roof, and into place. Not a single scratch, no carnage, and a success.

Stainless T-Bolts was bought for it, but the first one snapped the T right off when tightening. Change of plans, and stainless Carriage bolts was used. We ground the round tops off, and made them flat. External toothed washers, with a stainless washer placed on them, and slid into the factory roof rail tracks. They are 5/16" x 1"L, and worked perfectly. No side to side slop and snug in the center of the track slot. 2 bolts per mount, 4 mounts, 8 bolts total. Mounts are welded and wrap the frame tube, offering 1.5" of lift for the rack.

Ok, so skipping all the build pics, and getting right to it, here is the boards placed on the rig to slide this thing on.

I know your laughing right now, but that's ok, LOL away!

Here it is all bolted up, with the awning installed.

Mock up with the hi lift, axe & shovel installed. I wont put these on until it's time for a trip, and store them indoors. The shovel is high, and out of the way of the moonroof glass when opened for vent.

I have pictures of the entire build, if anybody has any questions, let me know. I'm happy to answer any, with pics. I still have to run the power to the junction box, from the rig's console switch panel.

Yes I know it is big, and tall and it looks weird, but... once outfitted, and the trailer hitched up, it will look like it belongs. Hardcore crawling isn't this rigs intended use, and it is closer to it's real purpose now. I don't mind the higher COG with this. It's a trade off to be able to gear it the way I want.

Love or hate it, it has a purpose, and even I have to get used to it. I haven't warmed up to the look yet, and might take some time for that to happen. lol

 

[410Fortune]

holy SH*% balls that is a huge roof rack
Thank goodness for the new springs to help carry that load!
Wicked cool
Now you can run cables from the front bumper to the roof rack to deflect low hanging branches and stuff
Let us know how the wind noise is on that bad boy.........good to see members come together for the greater good

 

[gmanpaint]

It looks massive up there. It looks funny too. Lol

The new basket was the driving force to get the springs corrected. I knew I had to do something with them with the new trailer, and the basket addition made it happen now.

It has a killer stereo, so if any wind noise happens, I got the cure.

I actually have a set of brush cables made for this rig already, and have used them a few times. I just need to make them shorter now, and make a different bracket setup.

Tasks requiring help when you have local support, is something dearly missed. I moved here for a job. I haven't made any friends close by here to ask for help. No family near me either. I have been living isolated for the past 7 years now. Getting any help for anything, is hard to accomplish. I am super thankful, for the help Kurt gave getting this thing on. I couldn't do it alone. No tree limbs to use and too big to fit in the shop for joist lift. I even asked a company across the street to help with a fork lift, but they declined for liability reasons. I understood that 110%. I reluctantly asked a neighbor for help, (something I never do) said he would, but was MIA during the install. LOL

The basket itself is 11.5" tall, with 1.5" additional height from the mounts. It sits 4" higher than the old basket. I went back and forth on building a flat rack, to a 6" tall version, but said screw it. I wanted items to be secured inside without worry from exposure. If it proves to be too big, it can easily be modified for a larger vehicle, and sold.

I used to carry the 35" MT spare on the roof, and that was about the same weight as this basket. All the same accessories from the old basket, are on this new basket. No change there. I won't be loading many heavy items up there for trips. The 10'x10' pop up canopy will be the heaviest item stowed. There was no room for it on the trailer, and is what inspired this basket's size. Packed, it is 50" long, and 2" too long for internal trailer storage.

 

[CDW6212R]

I like, well thought out.

It's a little taller and longer than what i plan to build, now that I've used a bought rack for a few weeks now. I need the good sized area up there for parcels that overflow my truck, which has been about 15 days this season.

What did you bolt that down to on the roof? I'm planning to remove the stock side rails and use those five bolts on each side there. I hope there is a square steel a size that fits down into that roof channel. I'd like to weld onto that kind of side piece and keep that rack close to the roof. My Rola rack is loud above 45mph, I haven't installed the front deflector piece yet, maybe that will help.

 

[gmanpaint]

The stock side T-slot roof tracks that go front to back, are very securely mounted from the factory on this rig. I have loaded 500 lbs on the roof more times than I can remember for trips. I built the basket width and mounts to fit snug between the raised exterior lip on these tracks. I also think a rig with a moonroof, might be stronger than one without. Sounds weird, but the opening is strengthened by the framing, and that framing goes back over 2 feet, also adds strength to the roof from underneath. Just my observation from having the liner off, and working on the drain lines in the past.

To answer your question Don, I bolted to the basket's mounts to the tracks using modified stainless 5/16" carriage bolts with an external toothed washer (for spin stop), and a 3/8" washer that fills the slots track width. The 3/8" washer keeps the bolt centered in the tracks.

Something to think about, if your wanting to flush mount to the roof itself.

The roof is 3/4" higher in the center then the front/back, and both sides. It's curved both directions, and not flat at all. To give this basket 3/4" clearance underneath in the center, the front and back mounts had to be 1.5" tall. Because I used 2 bolts per mount, and each is 3" long, I had to make the inner sides 1/16" higher, to fit the tracks curve, to sit flush on the track.

The baskets mounts are welded to the tube frame, under, and up both sides. The center of the track slots was marked onto the mounts, and holes drilled for centering the bolts.

Hard to see the roofs curve in this picture, but it's there. Removing these tracks and using a straight pc of tube laying on the roof itself, will rock as it won't lay flat. You can see for yourself if you have a straight edge, like a 6 ft level. Place it on the roof next to the track, and center it on the roof. You will see the gap front, & back under it. I bolted as far forward as it could go, and about 6" forward of the rear track end. If the roof does flex any, they are spread out far enough to let it (I think, lol).

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for your details on that mounting, the ideas help of course. I knew the roof curves in both directions, I'm hoping I can make something fit and touch at the five mounting bolt holes. That likely will mean a small pad at each hole, and the bar curved to fit them. I'm not sure what the best clearance should be, to make any cleaning possible or easy.

I have the original sunroof from my 99, recall my truck has the 93 entire roof, rear clip. I can say the older 93/94 moon roofs are weaker than a solid roof. But it's been 12 years since I looked at the OEM 95-01 assembly, I think it was basically sheet metal and plastic, not really structural. I'm hoping to fill my 99's roof since the old one sagged there when it was a 93, and leaked at that back edge. I'd prefer support bars added below the roof there, and along the whole underside if there is space with the headliner.

 

[KurtECV]

If it's stupid but it works, it's not stupid.

If it's stupid and it doesn't work then its gonna hurt (physically and/or financially)

If it's stupid and you die, then your stupid.

Edit: the latter has almost happened several times on my part

 

[KurtECV]

I'm happy I could help get it on there and nothing got damaged!

Happy that you have room in your garage to get to projects that have been.... trailering the roof backet.

 

[gmanpaint]

I'm happy I could help get it on there and nothing got damaged!

We pulled off another successful caper by George!!

Thanks again!




p.s.
Not stupid. It worked=Pure genius.

 

[KurtECV]

Most guys feel bad they did nothing to help George.

I didn't even know about George lmao

 

[410Fortune]

dammit
I wish we all lived in the same community, can you imagine what could get built?
We need a workshop drone we can deploy to members houses across the country (or world) that can act like a set of helping hands and also hand out warm hugs, like a big hero six for the explorer enthusiast
Well thought out roof rack build and implementation!!
Now you can pack enough stuff up there to visits your real friends and neighbors!!

 

[gmanpaint]

I just looked at a 2.5 million 4 story Brick mansion with 22k sf living space, on 55 acres in the countryside of Massachusetts. Wrong coast for me, but man, what a spread.

"The mansion has a total of 65 rooms, 47 bedrooms, 28 baths, and 4 half baths on three levels."

Slate tile roof, a bunch of big fireplaces, and a boiler room. Has a big carriage house for an extra $500k. lol

Pretty sure we could have a off road bizz out of the place, and room for 10 families. Lol

 

[traveler]

I swear you won't believe it but I have a set of plans drawn up for a full length rack made of steel tubing that goes clear to the front to mount lights. It has Provisions for shovels, jack, etc. LoL you just built yours first!
Mine isn't quite as tall as yours but very similar. LoL great minds huh?
And those springs are amazing! How much gravel are you landing to haul with that thing! LoL
So glad you got it mounted successfully, seems things are working out for you.

 

[gmanpaint]

Don, lmao!!

Traveler, you knew about this rack for 3 months already!! I just didn't show any pics of it. Haha! Plan on hundreds of welds, and time to upgrade your machine to gas! Hope yours turns out how you want it. Can't wait to see it!!

My plans kept changing as I went. So many things to consider when making it, and having to think 10 steps ahead through the entire build, can be mind boggling.

Holy run on sentencing lately!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Temps hit 50 today. Spent the afternoon wiring up the basket lights, and Aux outlets.

I used the spare tire carrier to climb my old Butt up into the basket. Was way easier to work on the J-box to add the wiring harness I made for it, since the lid faces inwards. It didn't flinch an inch with me in it. Truck didn't rock, roof didn't make a sound, basket held firm, even with me kneeling/sitting on it. I can lay in it even. Might have to sleep under the stars, one summer night up there.

Hard to take pics of them on in the driveway, for distance and what not. These just show them working.

Front 36w pods

Side 18w pods

Rear 40w flush mounts

The rears are crazy bright. 8- 5w bulbs each. I need an excursion to use them now. (badly I might add)

Everything is ran off a relay, and to the switch console, except the Aux outlets. They are ran direct to the battery with a 15 amp fuse.

The Cb coax is about 4 foot too short to reach the Antennae. I need a longer one. Because of this, I didn't run the new rear view camera RCA & power line. They run together on the Passenger side. I will do them both at the same time when I procure a longer coax.

Always something!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Opened up the awning to let it air out. It got a little wet when we installed it, and got caught in the rain.

I took it off the trailer for this rig. (Trailer is getting a different unit) It's the ARQ4WD 6.5 ft 270* with Led's. It opens up to 13' x 13', and uses no ground poles. It's all aluminum, and weighs less than 20 lbs. I chose the color scheme to match the rig, when I ordered it from ARQ in Venezuela. They offer a ton of colors and schemes with, or without the border color.

The corner that goes to the passenger side when opening needs strapped to the rig to hold it open. This strap is the weak point in this awning. If that strap breaks, the awning will close on itself. I need to think of a way to strengthen that strap or add another. For windy days, it does have long leashes on all the corners to secure it to the rig or staked to the ground.

It is over 8 foot high at the highest points and well over 7 foot at the lowest. Strapped the leashes to the rig on the corners and it worked well. I can still open the hatch with it open, which was a goal when figuring the mounting for it. If I strap a corner to the bumper, than I have to remove it, which might lead to using ground stakes all the time.

Winds were 15mph with higher gusts. It didn't seem to mess with it at all.

Was a good time to test the Led light's on it. Plugged them into the SAE Aux port.

Although it was a cloudy day, I was surprised at how bright they are.

 

[gmanpaint]

USPS rang the bell, and handed me a box, with another Mod to do today.

Last pc of the Expedition rack puzzle is the bigger front light bar. I built the front using a 1" round tube to hang this light, using round tube clamping brackets, made for this purpose. Thick 1/2" Aluminum with rubber tube grips, using Stainless hardware. I promptly misplaced a set of SS 1/4" Allen head bolts it came with in about 30 minutes. LOL I used a 1/4" SS Phillips head bolt, I had until I locate them. SMDH.

The 36w (72w total) Led lights I had on there using a single watertight power connector.

And the new 180w spot/flood combo. It's noise proof due to the curved front lens, and teardrop design.

Made a wire harness on the bench, using half a connector to mate the one on the existing harness already there. I just had to move the brackets outboard, and plug it in. It has a 360* swivel using the side brackets (came with top/bottom bracket mounts too), and aimed the light downward just a tad, being it is pretty high up there. I will need to fine tune it in the dark later on.

Here you can see the curved front on it.

Top view showing it mounted to the tube

And all the brackets on both sides.

That pretty much sums up the mods until spring time rolls around. Mother nature was friendly this last couple of weeks, but that is all about to change in a few days here. Sub zero temps are on the way, and cabin fever will take it's ugly grip. Netflix & youtube here I come. Blah...

Happy new year EF!

 

[KurtECV]

That looks siiiiick

 

[410Fortune]

agreeeeeeeee I love the whole setup

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the kind words!!

Took over a month to build, and a couple days to install, and it's a good feeling, to hear somebody offer some positive feedback.

Personally, I really like the functionality of it all, but am still trying to get use to the aesthetics. lol

Amazon delivered the new CB cable at 930 pm on a Sunday night. WTH? I will get that and the new longer camera wires installed asap.