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Thanks Jon!! :)

Hooked up the new RCA & power for the rear view camera. It's working again. That was a royal pita.

CB cable is ran and hooked up too. I think I need to ground the antennae tho. Glad I welded that grounding bolt to the racks frame close by. Wish I would have thought of that 10 years ago. That is a handy thing to have.

Guess since this thing is set for a few months, I can go back to working on the adventure trailer. LOL!!
 






smart thinking with a bolt for your ground!!! I had always been running the ground wire into the cab!!! All these years.....
So much easier to just make a good ground out on the roof!!!!!!!!
Smart smart smart you get a useful tag for that one
 






Strong crazy winter storms hit here. Ice covered trees, then 70-80 mph winds, then snow. Tree limbs fell as a result. Then it snowed hard, and temps dropped to the single digits. it just warmed up enough to let the sun melt the snow and the ice covered limbs.

I got to test the new Dewalt Chainsaw out. It works great. Cut thru limbs like butter, and never slowed as it cut. Made about 50 cuts and still had 2/3 life on the 9.0 battery. I like these newer batteries with the LED power bars on them. Sure beats the batteries of past. All my 18v Ridgid batteries have them too.

Ok, I have a question about the rear 8.8. It has been beefed up in many ways already. Purpose for a lot of it was for increased loads on the rig.

Tubes have been welded to the housing, after oven baked.
The Yukon 88 kit installed with D60 bearings, C-clip eliminators, and Chromo shafts.
Heavy springs for heavier loads, and to maintain lift under loads.
New gears with complete internal rebuild.

More work to it is going to happen this spring/summer.

The ARB locker will be installed at a shop. I can't, and won't, try to set backlash, on something that will be used on pavement, and used for towing.
To do this, the axle will come out, and dropped off at the gear shop. The front axle is also going for a LS install at the same time.

Ok, so been thinking of replacing the 4:56 gears with 4:88. The charge for install will be lower since they will already have the 4:56 removed for the carrier swaps. Extra charge will be the Pinion swap, but even that will be minimal, as I have solid spacers with shims on both of them. Priced some G2 4:88 for around $360. I think this is the time to do this swap, if I do it.

Now for the question. Should I truss the 8.8 while the axle is out?

Reason I'm considering this, is all the extra weight (around 800-1000 lbs, gear & towing tongue weight) added, off road use with extra weight, and the width is 3" wider than stock. I know the big bearings can handle the load, but it's the tubes that have me worried. I don't want them to bend.

RuffStuff has a simple truss (no 4 link) for $100, that fits the 8.8.

RS 88 truss raw.jpg
 






With all the other work being done, and as the truss costs so little, I'd take the extra insurance and install them.
Better to have them and not need them, than need them and not have them.
 






yes truss with all those other upgrades to the axle the truss for $100 and some prep and welding its a no brainer!
 






That Ruffstuff one you linked is not a real "truss" despite them calling it that. A pet peeve of mine from being a fabricator and engineer is everyone calling those a truss when it is really just a "bridge". A truss will go end to end or as close as it can. A bridge is just that, it puts a bridge over the differential to attach link mounts, etc. In this case you are limited by the leaf spring perches/u-bolts so truss up to that point. If you are going to do it look at the Artec, Barnes, Iron Rock or TNT 8.8 trusses.

I've only seen one bent 8.8 in person from a Bronco that got in a crash and that diff is currently cut apart in my yard to use as a fixture for 8.8 stuff. I'm really on the fence about adding a truss. The 8.8 is pretty strong with the bigger OD tubes but they are thin wall. I don't see it bending in normal overlanding situations but if you start jumping it or bashing it (bouncing) on big rock ledges then absolutely truss it :D
 






Thanks Brian. That's good to know. This is why I ask questions, even if it sounds dumb, obvious, etc...

I looked at artec and liked them, but thinking I don't need all that 4 link stuff, I kept looking. Seeing that simple ruffstuff version looked like the answer. Now I know better.

Those artec link tabs shouldn't be anything more than brush catchers, if I left them on. Lol

I would feel better with it trussed tho. I don't plan on jumping, but dropping off a shelf hard, or falling into a covered hole, has happened before. Just being cautious is all, and a little piece of mind here.

Edit: I checked out all those you suggested, and if the Barnes fits between the U-bolts, (will measure tomorrow), I think it's the best choice for me, and this application. I was blind when looking previously. I didn't even pay attention to the bolt on pinion bracket. The Bridge section makes more sense to me now too. It's just the base for everything else added.

Looks like the Barnes center vertical will be in the way of the breather vent, and the ARB fitting. Guess it wouldn't be too bad to modify it.

Saved for later reference..... Barnes4wd 8.8 truss Part Number: B4WK0239
 






Can anybody tell me the physical difference's between a 95-97 & 98-01 Rack & pinion? I can't tell by looking online, but they do indeed have different Part numbers. They list by years, not engine type, or size. So whats the diff? Cross member shape?

I was trying to compare them side by side with the pictures provided by Rock Auto, but that's not very reliable.

I'm trying to figure out what is so different about them, that the 95-97 can't work on the 98-01. They look the same to me. The only difference's I see are from the pump & line system, not the rack itself.

Anyone?
 






I do not know of any differences in the parts physically, it may be that they got a closer turn ratio in the later years?
 






Cross member is different, steering rack mounting holes are different orientation.

Front sway bar brackets mount different also.

late 98 up

31VV-xaO%2BfL._SR600%2C315_PIWhiteStrip%2CBottomLeft%2C0%2C35_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg


95-97
614XhDbVLTL._SX425_.jpg


see the difference of mounting hole angle now?
 












Thanks Jamie, I didn't think of that.

Jon, I did the same thing with those pics, but then thought OK, if that's the case, then how is the 98 rack fitting in my 95?

I am going to ask A1-Cardone this physical question, since they re manufacture them.

I did notice that one line is routed differently from the 4.0 to 5.0. The 5.0 has a line that runs up the face of the cross member and is exposed more than the 4.0 line. My 4.0 line was covered and protected by the skid plate, but now that line is exposed greatly after the 5.0 swap. This was the only difference I could see.

I installed a new high end rack for the 4.0 before the 5.0 swap. I think it was swapped for the 98 donor's old rack, and is leaking. I have to R&R this thing again. This will be the 3rd time I have done this job on this rig, and I would rather have teeth pulled, then do this PITA job. It's harder to do on this rig, as the skid has to come off to get to the rack from underneath. The bash bar has to be removed to do that. To get the Bash bar off, the lower coil over mount has to come off, to unbolt the front LCA mount bolt, that holds the bash bar on. I need to turn the front lower LCA bolt around, and have the nut on the other side, so I don't have to do all that next time. I will have to cut that bolt down to fit inside the bash bar.

Always something!
 






I didn't know the ratios changed in the racks, but I figured the frame might be different because of the different sway bar mounts.

In Mustangs the limit stops changed due to wider wheels, but I doubt that's a thing with the Explorers.

Cardone or any rebuilder can swap internal parts if they are compatible, they do that to match casting number rebuilds anyway, like the Cobra rack. So, often you may get one that isn't exactly as it was supposed to be built. You hope for the best.

Let us know if the racks will swap, as I do have an old friend with a few odd low mileage parts from a 96 or 97. I want the front diff, but hadn't asked about anything else.
 






If the 98 rack won't fit in a 95 then I guess that's your old rack? Maybe you can warranty it out?
 






Was thinking about how & where I was going to add the 5 gal Jerry can. I have a spot on the rear tire swingout, but it would block my tag there. I really don't want to move the tag after drilling 4 holes, and installing riv-nuts into the hatch panel. So I remembered the late Phil Fisk had used a rotopack underneath, and used the stock tire winch. Went searching on the webs for something, and Bam! Found something.

Bit pricey, but would be nice to have. 3 of these for 18 gals of hidden storage. No bracket fabrication needed. I would just have to put the tire winch back on, and move the compressor box back some.

https://www.trailedonline.com/product-page/4runner-and-tacoma-6-gallon-spare-tank-2-pack

Simple round skid plate added to the bottom, and ready to rock n roll. Could mix them up for different fluids, like one for fuel, 2 for water (food grade tanks), etc... Just can't go from fuel to water once used for fuel.
 






Started to remove this hood graphic, then realized I needed to snap a picture of it, before I continued. Tried to lay the corner back down, but didn't work so well. LOL

Purple hole.jpg


So off with the old, and on with the new!

Money hole.jpg


It is a bit larger than I wanted it, but I have a couple more of them, I can trim down if I want. This is the 3rd style Black Hole graphic I have used so far. Been changing it up the last 3 years when spring hits. Just having a bit of fun with the rig with this. It's a great conversation starter with people when they see it. :)
 






It would be cool if you could find one of those 3D, holographic designs of that.
 









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