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gmanpaint

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Yeah, I got the AUX front lights covered pretty well already. I can't rely on those for night use on main roads at all.

80w PIA amber Fogs are amazing. 5w LED Amber bubble Cree Drivers down low for fog/dust, use take care of the low side very good.

Then there is 2 LED light bars. One on the bumper, and one on the roof. These are like turning on the Sun at Midnight. Only good when alone on the road. These will blind An Egyptian sun God.

I ordered a set of 36w 65k LED bulbs, with drivers & high speed fans for these black housings. Hopefully they make up for the output loss of the Silverstar Halogens.
 


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gmanpaint

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Removed the front CAD Diff housing out this afternoon. Letting it drain overnight, before I dig into it, and clean up 10 years of nasty on it.

Front Diff draining.jpg


Was hoping to be able to just replace the locker pins & springs with the carrier installed. Nope. Ring gear is to thick and it blocks access to two (of 4) of them. Carrier has to come out, and ring gear removed. Figures. What a Richard. Will get to that in the morning.

While I have that removed, I have clear access to the engine's oil pan at the CAD housing location. Going to massage the pan inward a bit for more clearance. I think I might try grinding down the cad housing a bit too. That way I don't have to beat on the pan too much. Instead of just swinging a Ball Peen at it, I have an idea to use a 1.5" hitch ball. Thinking is.... Hold the ball on the pan where I want it to push in, and hit the ball stud with the ole 5 lb mini sledge. If I crack this pan, I'm in a world of sheet!!!

The 3 ton Triple lift floor jack worked better than I thought it would, for dropping the dif. Better than the trans jack actually. Removing the cup on it, lets me use the wide flat platform, that cradles the dif nicely. The rubber diamond strips are actually the platform in the pic below. I have to manhandle the dif on mine, as it doesn't drop straight down like normal. The rear LCA support tube is in the way of the vertical bolt on the dr side, and it can't be removed until the dif is twisted, and shoved around every which way til Sunday, as it is lowered. Fun by yourself I tell ya, just fun! But being able to work this jack handle as I am under the rig wrestling a smelly dirt front pig, helped a bunch. It's also a jack stand. Uses a big pin bar under the platform to hold it up after it's lifted. Pretty safe for a floor jack.

triple lift jack.jpg


Delivery man showed up with goodies a bit ago too. New LED headlights, and a new rear cargo door actuator finally arrived. But first, let's see if this old man can get this front end back together in working order.
 




CDW6212R

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Good tough work there, the right jack and tools make it manageable.

How do your bushings look in the diff, the housing mounts? I've had one diff, that they seemed a little loose, some cracking of the rubber. I tried to buy new bushings for one I'm going to rebuild, and one of the three is different evidently, and not available from Ford or the part number search.
 




gmanpaint

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They "Look" fine on this housing. At one time in the past, I had thought that one of them was bad, as I had a mystery clunk, I was trying to locate. Turned out that the bushing was fine, not cracked, and made that way. I would think those are a discontinued part by now, and would have to source them from a used diff?

So I discovered something this morning that is frustrating. The DR side wheel turns the front drive shaft as is. I suspected that the locker's springs was worn, and causing the front locker to stay engaged. Ordered a new set of springs & pins to replace them, and is why I dropped the diff yesterday.

After inspection of the locker, the springs are good, and are doing their job just fine. So I dug into this thread, and found the post I made 10 years ago, when I installed it. The picture I posted of this locker after install spoke volumes to me this morning.

The way this locker is installed, the teeth are fully engaged. What this means is, when the dr side axle is turned, the locker case on the dr side, turns the cross shaft, which turns the other half, which turns the ring gear, which turns the pinion gear, which turns the drive shaft. That's only supposed to happen when power is applied, and the 2 halves close together, locking onto the cross shaft. I either installed the locker wrong, or that's just the way it is.

I'm going to email Lock Right, and send them this picture, and ask if that is normal or not. If you look closely, you can see the teeth meshed together on the bottom of it. One thought is, the gap isn't big enough to seperate the 2 halves from the cross shaft. That would need a re-shim to correct it if that is the case. Another thought is that there is just no way to change it up, and I have to live with the way it is. AWD Mounties, have the front shaft turning the carrier at all times, so it really shouldn't be an issue for the carrier to be turning. My front shaft turns, but the Atlas case gears are not engaged in 2wd, so the drive shaft is free spinning inside the case. I need to go buy a new set of feeler gauges today, and get a measure of that gap to submit to Lock Right with this picture.

95 cad d35 carrier with lock right locker installed.jpg


Always Something!
 
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gmanpaint

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Future reference...
The distance between the halves of the LockRight, that is between the two drivers, should be about 5/32-inch (.156-inch, or 3.86-mm). The tolerance limits are between .145-inch (3,68 mm) and .170 inch (4.32-mm). If this distance is much over .170-inch, either the case is quite worn or the thrust washers are missing or are too thin and problems should be corrected before proceeding further.
Ok, so this was what I posted back on page 43, 10 years ago.

Fast Forward to today...

Took another gap measure on the locker, and it was 0.157". I'm good there and still in the tolerance range. I really don't consider that a change at all over 10 years. No reason to change the springs on it. I also checked the torque setting on the ring gear bolts. 80#'s, so good there too. All that means, is I don't need to tear the axle assembly apart.

I think that the locker is installed as should be, and it is, what it is. Both axle sides turn when the pinion is rotated, the drivers tire will always turn the driveshaft, and the pass side tire spins freely (not turning the drive shaft), because of the central axle disco.

I cleaned up the entire housing with a brass wire wheel as best I could. Cleaned the inside with brake cleaner, and ragged it all down. Cleaned the backside of the engine cross member and surrounding area as well. Scraper and wire brush made a nice black particle rain, and it poured on me. lol

clean dif front 2020.jpg
clean diff rear 2020.jpg


Found a missing nut on the underside of the pass engine mount. The positive cable has a bracket that uses that stud to hold it. No idea if it fell off, or if the engine swap people forgot it. I found one for it, and zipped it on. I think I need to replace that cable anyways, as it is too short. I'm sure the body lift isn't helping that length either.

This wasn't a total loss of time & effort. I managed to massage the oil pan a bit, for the CAD housing clearance. Plus it all got cleaned up real good. 10 years of cross country travel, and some crazy good times wheeling, sure made a mess in an area you just can't clean normally.

Going to be a couple days before I get it all back together. Rains just moved in, and will be here for a bit. Cover back on with some Red RTV, and let it cure out in the meantime.



The pass side CV's rubber dust collar to the backside of the bearing hub, had separated, and left a nice rubber ring flopping around. I replaced that axle last October (1 yr ago). I called the parts store, and asked if that is covered under warranty, and they said yes. They ordered me a new one to replace it with. Think I am going to paint the steel cases black before both of them go in. Dr side is new, so no rust yet.

Lot's of yammering there, with no real good info, other than the locker checked out ok. lol Thanks for reading anyways!

Edit:
That should keep the rust at bay for a while. lol

cv's painted.jpg


Good bead of Red curing out.

Dif cover on 1.jpg
 
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Paul

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Great work as always. Back to your weight-to-power issue, have been thinking a lot about your concerns as have been strategizing the build of the new-to-me rig. Probably not going to build it exactly the same . . . after 25 years, kept on adding stuff that was "neat" but not really "necessary". Case in point, Rock Lights - - cool addition, used them probably twice. . . Going on the new rig? Nope. I could go on. . .

Is an option big-ass trailer and significantly less in-cab storage for base camp wheeling, and full-size in-cab storage when you go without the trailer? I mean seriously, how many cutting boards are required for a wheeling trip? Don't get me wrong, your threads on the BH, Pugly, and the trailer are all great reads, and the fact that you document your efforts with commentary and pictures helps make this site such a awesome source.

Just my ruminations, have been giving considerable thought on what I really "need" the new rig to be. . .

Best of luck moving forward,

Paul
 




gmanpaint

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Agreed on the redundancies, and one I'm thinking on, after the weigh in on the trailer has been done.

There will be some changes made when the trailer is in use for trips, ........................ if I keep it.
 




gmanpaint

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So I was just reading Mountaineergreen's TM header install write up. I like what I he says Post install...

The biggest question, what is the difference over stock?

At first, not much. The first 10 miles I drove were not hardly any different than stock. I drove it the next day to work and pulled the battery cable to let the computer reset. I checked everything to make sure nothing was touching or rubbing. I put the cable back on and let the computer learn again. I set my programmer from performance to towing performance. I drove it about 30 miles and then hooked on to a 3,000 lb pop up camper and drove it back. The difference is night and day. I pulled the relatively heavy camper like a champ. Lots of power and torque that I could feel. The next day I put the programmer back to performance. The computer has figured out the new parts and it runs great. Acceleration is easier and faster. If you really get on it, it opens up and screams. Under normal driving, acceleration comes a lower RPMs effortlessly. This is only my third day since install at the time of writing this, so I will give reports over time.

Ok, so I'm thinking he didn't do a cam upgrade back in 2006 when that was wrote, and only had a preset programmer with a couple options, If I'm reading that right.

So if he noticed a change for the better towing a 3000 lb trailer, with just the header swap and a tow tune, I am feeling much better about what I'm thinking of doing this winter.

TMH's.
Stage 1 custom grind Comp Cam
Valve springs, retainers, & pushrods
1" intake heat spacer
New wires with heat socks on all 8
SCT Tune by Unleashed
Brett built Valve body
Possibly a better quality, Diff stall Torque Convertor ?? Will talk to Brett about this.

Not sure about a bigger TB, or MAF yet. I want to keep the stock air intake setup. I really like it as is, and I think this style is one of the best Ford ever made for a stock application.

Anything I'm missing for the stage 1 build? I'm only after a few more HP here, not a race engine. :)
 




410Fortune

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You will want the converter
Excellent setup for sure

This will unleash the power potential the gt40 v8 can make in stockish form, the explorer cam (mustang HO basically) and choking manifolds along with the stock exhaust (4 cats, a muffler and resonator) just plain suck......this is a cobra 5.0 v8 and 1/2 ton transmission we should treat it as such!
 




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Yes, those things will help a small amount, you will like it.
 




gmanpaint

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Rained for 4 days & nights. Fog lifted about 10:30 am this morning. A warm front pushed in, bringing with it, temps in the mid 80's by the afternoon. Put in an "Out of office" notice, went back at it, and got the rig back together. Cold front is returning tomorrow, dropping temps again, and more rains. Snow is in the forecast next week, so this was the big push to get it done in time, for the upcoming meet in a couple weeks.

The fight to get the front diff back in wasn't that bad, but wasn't that good either. I accidentally flipped the ear tab nut for the vertical bolt. I learned that when that happens, you have to remove the heat shield for the fuel lines to get it back over, and in place. LOL That took me the longest time.

New CV axles in. New synthetic gear fluid. New 12" limit straps. New front U-joint straps. New 3/8 grade 8 bolts for the UCA to Knuckle. New front Tuner Lug nuts, AND more oil pan clearance to the CAD housing.

Ran out of time to clean the liners and fire wall better. Was going to spray it down with de-greaser, and power wash it off, but couldn't. Still leftover splatter from when the power steering rack puked at 70 mph. I got the rest cleaned up pretty decent, so these can wait.

Full droop in all it's IFS glory! LMAO

Dr 5.jpg

Pass 3.jpg



I did have just enough time to install the new cargo hatch lock actuator. Works, but not all the way. It locks/unlocks, but only the glass will open. I had to open the glass, reach in, and pull up on the lock, to turn the hatch handle. I didn't realize this, until after I put the hatch back together. :( I do believe I can adjust it tho. There is 2 nubs on the thing that fits into the U bracket that holds it. I think I put it in the wrong one.

If I have time, and the weather allows before the meet, I will get the new LED headlights installed. But I have to focus my remaining available time to the trailer axles. Trailing arms need swapped with better pivot bushings. That will be indoors thankfully.


Enjoy the Nationwide three ring circus (Debate) tonight My fellow Americans!
 




410Fortune

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whew debate is over now back to trucks!!

Well done shes looking really nice
I want to see the "tuner" lug nuts :) I run those spikey ones on our excursion and love them....they were cheaper then all the other options for a superduty???
You indeed should be able to get some adjustment out of that hatch lock actuator.........fun fun!
 




gmanpaint

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Just plain style lugs in satin black. They are made for these wheels. I had an extra set of them. With all the work being done to this rig the last couple of years, they got marked up from tires being removed so much, and started to get rusted on the edges.

If it wasn't so cramped inside the hatch, swapping that actuator wouldn't be bad. My big mits makes it a royal pita.

I dream of changing up this front suspension for more articulation someday. Still on the fence about an SAS or a long travel kit with rcv axles. Both would cost me about the same in the long run, but thinking the long arm would be easier to do myself. only issue with the long arm, is you retain the weak sauce stock steering.

So I'm wanting to change the rear bumps on this rig, to something beefier and longer than stock. Airbags are a no go because of lift gap, and need all custom fab work to make a reality. Not wanting to go thru all that, and started searching for bump replacements.

Timbren makes a set for the explorer!

These are a 2k Aeon hollow bump, but replicate an air bag, with a single upper mount, that uses the stock bump location. 2k is for the max tongue load, which nobody will ever get over 1/4 of that on an Explorer.

Ordering them today from etrailer.com.

If anybody is interested for the beefier rear bumps, the Timbren part # is, TGMFK10R


rear bumps 1.png


If anybody wants more cushion to an unmolested front bump mount, the Timbren bump part # is, TFXF1004A


front bumps.png

front bumps installed.png
 
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CDW6212R

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Very good, you got a lot done there, soon before some cold air comes in.

I have those Timbren's in a box still, was going to put them on to help with loads with my spare vehicle. I may not need them depending on how the vehicle sets with new shocks, it has some brand of a helper spring shock now. They look very easy to install, I figured 15 minutes when the truck is in the air, if the shocks aren't in the way.
 




gmanpaint

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Don, just take the wheels off, and you will have plenty of free room to work with. I would go ahead and install them and let them help the leafs out, with your daily mail loads. Are your new shocks the ones with the helper springs on them?

So mine are supposed to arrive today. I previously called Timbren, and got the full height measure of them. These are made for the stock ride height, with frame to axle gap about 5" and these sit 1" above the axle.

Well, mine is far from stock ride height. My sprung under lift springs, leave a 10" gap LOL!

I originally decided to just make a drop mount for them out of sq 2" tube, to get it closer to the axle tube. But I just found a company that makes drop disc spacers, just for these Timbren plate cups, that fit between the jounce spring & frame rail. These spacers come in 1/4', 1/2", & 1" discs. You can stack them too. A set of the 1" are only $20.

Found here Timbren Rear Bumpstop Spacers

So do I stack a couple of them 1" disc's, or do I use just one 1" disc, and still make the sq drop spacer to get them even closer?

Timbren spring is 4.75" tall. Leaves a full 5" gap still.

Spring + 2" sq tube + 1" disc= 7.75" leaving a 2.25" gap. Add the trailer and it drops 1.25"-1.5", leaving about a 1" gap, as intended from Timbren.

OR

Add two 1" discs, to the 2" sq tube, letting the jounce springs touching the axle with trailer loaded. I think this will work best for towing, but what effect they will have when wheeling on twisty trails, and axle is trying to articulate and stuff a tire? I don't want to stop it from articulating a bunch. A little is fine, I can live with that no problem.

What to do, what to do? Opinions anyone? I need to get these installed this weekend.
 




CDW6212R

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I think installing them without any spacer to start with will be best. With them in, then you can see better what spacer you might need, and if making a more solid mount may be better than the spacers they make. As you pointed out they should be easy to R&R, stick them in and see what you think then.
 




gmanpaint

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Well, for them to even work, they need to make contact with the axle under load. I only really want them for towing the trailer, to help the springs out, and help with sway when hitched up. I already know they won't ever make contact as is when towing. They say a 2" gap is too much for them.

Because of the time frame crunch, I think I will go ahead and order 4 of them, and then decide if I want to use 1 or 2 of them stacked. $20 loss if I only use 2 of them. Is what it is!

As far as the sq 2" spacer tube goes, I just realized the tube I have is 1/4" thick. Was thinking of using 1/8" wall. Oh well, more weight, & more beef to this tank. lol
 




CDW6212R

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Modifying is an adventure for sure, and every change touches other things. Fun fun, do it now before it gets cold.
 




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