The Black Hole

[CDW6212R]

I see, you have to find a better source. Here the lines have been under $30 each, and claim to be DOT approved. I would hesitate to ever reuse a stock end fitting again for a normal driving vehicle. They usually carry virtually all OEM fittings, but there are exceptions. My place here now carries that OEM frame fitting.

 

[gmanpaint]

Took the rig to the trails today.

The new IFS parts worked perfectly, and as soon as the frozen mud is off, a good inspection will be made. I think everything is in top shape, as there was no ill effects with them on the journey home.

The 35" tires are another story. They really helped out a bunch overcoming the ruts, climbing over fell trees, and spanning the gaps. The fronts were fine as the trimming worked great. The rears rubbed the upper fender lips when stuffing the wheels. Either the axle needs moved back, or SOA needs to be done. I prefer SOA, but of course, that means SAS

I think the fuel pump is going out. It had several hard starts today. After turning the key a bunch of times to prime the system, it built up pressure to start. This is at least what I think was happening. The only other thing I can think of was the manual ECM is playing a little havoc with the auto harness, and the rest of the 4x4 electronics on board. A fuel pressure test is in order.

I had a different situation arise as well. The coolant was sludge brown/black, not tan as in oil & water mixed. I had used some bars leak to stop a gasket leak in the past. It worked well. I'm not sure, but there might have been a large deposit of it stuck somewhere all this time, and was jarred loose today. Really spooked me when I noticed it. An engine flush is in order here.

The 3" body lift shifter adapter just plain sucks. It does the job to raise the shifter mount, but it also has a poorly milled slot for it, making the play in the handle unbearable. Something needs to fill the gap to reduce shifter slop.

The rear springs have lost some of the lift, and need replaced as well. Drivers side the most.

Other than that, it still wheeled easier than it ever has in the past. Those larger tires aired down make an amazing diff in ride quality on rough trails.

 

[Sbyrne97]

That bars leak stuff is only for emergencies never use it to stop a leak and always flush your system after you use it. I got customers coming in with there radiators and coolant with lots of sludge like you said. Best to flush it a few times. Might of clogged something up on the inside, so best make sure

 

[gmanpaint]

That bars leak stuff is only for emergencies never use it to stop a leak and always flush your system after you use it. I got customers coming in with there radiators and coolant with lots of sludge like you said. Best to flush it a few times. Might of clogged something up on the inside, so best make sure

The flush will be done asap. I am not thrilled with what I see right now. Weird part is it did get flushed after the bars leak treatment. Actually it has been done a couple times since I always change the anti-freeze annually.

 

[gmanpaint]

Got the coolant flush done. What a pain this time around.

Started out with half a jug (14 oz) of CLR.
Ran a cycle of water.
Ran a cycle of Prestone flush.
7 Cycles of water to follow.
Still dirty....sheesh.

So after some advice from Maniak, I kept the drain opened, ran the garden hose to the rad filler neck, and left the engine running. I had two 5 gal buckets to catch the draining water. After about the 4th bucket, it ran clean....whew!

I really didn't want to splice in one of those Prestone flush kit deals. Just something else to break down the road, but I can see how they would help when its real bad as this time was.

Now to figure out the "Sometimes" hard start issue.

 

[gmanpaint]

A few pictures from last weekend at Smorr.

 

[lynchy wa]

Excellent photo's mate, she's a savage rig.

 

[gmanpaint]

Excellent photo's mate, she's a savage rig.

Thanks Lynchy

Heres a short video out at the park, and it has the starting issue in it. The idle rpms are low, at 500, and its easy to stall it when I'm not careful. It seems to act as if it not getting any fuel. Which part in the fuel system is giving it the problem? Dunno yet.
Really have to get that power steering pump replaced, it's driving me nuts!


Heres one showing down hill with some deep ruts, didnt drag at the least bit. Woot!


Guiding the Black Hole into the Eternal Sun :


The 35's still manage to stuff the wheel well, but the new flares rub the tires sidewall and sound like a squeegee on a dry window..lol



An easy trail ride at Smorr. Nice and relaxing threw some water here and there.

 

[Glen4X4]

Nice vids and pics Gregg. Man hearing your ps whine makes me miss driving mine lol.

 

[gmanpaint]

Cut more of the rear fender off. Tried to keep the plastic trim intact, but it had to go!

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good. Now how about making a "mudflap" there to replace the fender section? Cut the body as much as needed to clear the tires, and the ground, plus make room to climb under it if needed. Then use a strong flexible rubber material like a mudflap to attach to where the body is cut away. Trim it to resemble the body lines you'd like.

 

[gmanpaint]

A removable set of mudflaps are in the works

Oh, and long term plans are a custom rear bumper that will wrap the sides a bit. It will fill some of it back up. That's why it was cut all the way back.

 

[gmanpaint]

A question to all you subscribing to this thread......

I believe the oil pan has a nasty case of sludge build up in it, and I want to remove it to clean it.

So far from what I have researched, it seems the 2nd gen 4.0 OHV pan can come off without pulling the engine. Now I have read a couple of mixed reviews, and one says with a 3" body lift, the rear of the trans can be lifted (with mount nuts off), and one says the engine needs to be lifted to get the front pan bolts out. I have no idea since I have never attempted this. What say you?

The oil pump is another question I have. How hard would it be to replace it with the engine still in? Any problems with the pump rod going back in? A suggestion to replace the screen pick up tube is a good idea, if the pump cant be done.

Which of you fine people have had any experience in this and can help me through it?

Deeply appreciate any and all help here.

 

[Tbars4]

...Actually, I think Turdle has a write up on his adventures with an oil pan...

 

[gmanpaint]

...Actually, I think Turdle has a write up on his adventures with an oil pan...

Yeah, his was a 5.0, From what I have read so far, the 4.0 is easier and can be done. Now the details on how to go about it are vague to me.

 

[Turdle]

...Actually, I think JTSmith has a write up on his adventures with an oil pan...

Yep, Ted however that was a v8 engine. The 4.o ohv is totally different. I really don't know if I can offer advice on this one

Things which will get in the way are the steering rack-front cross member and exhaust. The oil pan will need to drop at least 3-4 inches before moving backwards then down to remove it.
I actually had to remove the pump and drop it into the pan to get the pan off-you may also.

Re installing the oil pump thru a 3" gap was a challenge. I needed someone to hold me up, and someone to hold the pan while I worked the pump, bolts and gasket-

 

[gmanpaint]

I am hoping the 3" body lift will help here some. Raising the engine or trans to tilt enough to get by the cross member and exhaust. I really don't know, and am a little skiddish on just removing over 20 bolts on the pan, and possibly tearing the pan gasket ($30) only to find out it cant be done.

There has to be a ton more room than the 5.0 has to offer for doing this.

The oil pump ordeal Jon described is a total frigging nightmare scenario..... ack!

 

[gmanpaint]

After studying the oil pan and removal of it, it looks plenty doable.

The exhaust is nowhere near it, and is not a factor.

The power steering cooler may have to be moved a bit for some clearance, but not a big deal at all. Comes off simple with 2 nuts on the studs and can be moved forward out of the way.

The front diff will have to come down to be out of the way, and looks like the only major thing obstructing it. So...remove the front drive shaft from the dif and push to the side, 3 bolts that hold the diff to the frame, and let it rest on the LCA's (CV's) while removing the pan.

Getting to the 24 little bolts don't look to hard to get to, and there looks to be enough room to get the air ratchet in there easy enough. The only ones that I cant see are the 2 in the back, I think I read somewhere that they are Allen head bolts, and there is an indent section on the pan to get an extension up there to work them.

If the engine mounts need to be loosened and the engine lifted a bit to drop the pan, I will be surprised if this needs to be done at all. Of course this all sounds good until half way thru it, and it doesn't go the way I think it should...lol

When I get a good warm, dry weekend, I will attempt this surgical procedure.

 

[Sbyrne97]

Why do you suspect sludge build up? Just wondering, does your oil cap have burned oil on it? or dipstick?

 

[gmanpaint]

Why do you suspect sludge build up? Just wondering, does your oil cap have burned oil on it? or dipstick?

Well, I use Mobil1 full synthetic oil in it. It will turn dark within 1k miles. I have been changing it out way to frequent for a synthetic.

The last few oil changes I have not been able to get a full 5qts of oil in it. This alone tells me there is enough sludge in it, to warrant cleaning the pan. There is no fluctuation in oil pressure on the half baked/fake stock oil gauge, so the sludge must be away from the pump pickup, which is what I am hoping to find out when the pan is dropped.

It has a lifter tick, or push rod slap on it. I realize that this engine is not as healthy as I would like it to be, and someday, an engine swap will happen. In the meantime, I will do what I can for it until it explodes and goes off to the OHV pastures in the sky.