The Black Hole

[KurtECV]

 

[gmanpaint]

Had a conversation with Advanced Adapters about the weak stock 4R70W trans mount. I sent them images of the stock mount, to see what they can come up with to help lift, and support the weight of this case better.

This is what they came up with. This kit (P#716008) includes a plate that bolts to the cross member, and you add your own sq tube in the size desired for lift. It has Poly bushings, & all the hardware needed for the install. If the holes do not line up on the plate, you can make new holes, or if your handy, make another plate of your own. The rep I talked to, has been using this setup on his doubler combo for 15 years on the same poly bushings, with no problems yet.

I think I can use a section of 2"x3" for the tube spacer on mine. Well, hoping at least.

 

[Dono]

I'll be watching this closely.
I think my trans mount is in ok shape, but I know what @vroomzoomboom 's looked like before he created a poly mount. Makes me think this mod is a good thing to do.

If you come up with something I can do without a welder, I'm all in. Did I mention fabrication is not my strong suit? lol.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, no promises on how this will work out yet. LOL ! I will give it the old college try tho.

Won't be any welding involved. Cutting the tube to size, and drilling two pass thru holes in it, is all. I happen to have some 2"x3"x3/16" tube hanging around the shop already I will use a stock mount for locating & drilling the bolt holes.

 

[gmanpaint]

@vroomzoomboom would you happen to have a link to that poly Mustang mount you used?

I don't think this AA mod is going to work out for my application. Our mounts are opposite of theirs as far as the bolt locations. I cut the spacer tube, and got a better grasp of how it would work, and I think this one is going to be more trouble than it's worth.

Since I am after 1.5-2" of lift, the Mustang poly mount should be easier to work with. Thinking with that mount is all I have to do is relocate the cross member holes for it.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-4-1104g/overview/year/1993/make/ford/model/mustang

 

[Dono]

Found where Tim detailed the work:
supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

To Tim this is no big deal to do, but it doesn't look exactly easy to me.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

if you want a cross member made don, i make one for you after i get that trac done

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for the link Tim. Amazon has them for the same price with prime shipping, so it saves a few bucks.

Dono, I looked at Tim's thread on this a few times already, and we talked about it a few days ago. Thanks for taking the time to find that.

He needed to drop his lower, and I need to lift mine higher. The Stang mount will do just that. Might be too high, but I won't know until I try. Edit: Tim didn't change the height after all. Just changed to a taller poly mount, but lowered the mount on the cross member.

Researching this even farther....

SAS people normally don't have a body lift, and they make custom cross members, and they lower the trans an inch or so to clear the floor above with the bigger t-case's. I can make a new cross member, but trying to avoid that if at all possible.

The Atlas is clocked so that the drivers side is hanging lower than the passenger side on my set up. So much lower that it hits and stops the skid plate from going back on. I had to space the bolts under the frame to get it back on, and leave a little gap between it and the case. So lifting it a little to clear the stuff on the drivers side would help, but I am being over cautious here I think. My fear is if a motor mount or the trans mount gives during a hard acceleration, the t-case would cause damage to the fuel lines. I would like the t-case higher to get the skid plate on right, and have a good gap between it and the case.

Since this rig has a 3" body lift, and the back of the drive train has dropped due to the lower profile trans mount after the 5.0/4R70W swap, there is about a 5" gap between the top of the case & the floor board now. It won't hurt to raise it some. Rear pinion angle is the only thing I can see having changed from lift, but it was fine with the atlas higher before, so I'm not that worried about it. I was hoping I could loosen the engine mounts, and push the trans to the passenger side some, but I am not sure that can be done, or that I should.

I could use a stock 4.0L trans mount (close to the same dimensions), to do the same thing as the aftermarket poly mustang mounts, but I think those will break faster. Time will tell what happens with this, and might take a few tries to get it right.

 

[boominXplorer]

I moved my trans about 3/8" to the passenger side at the mount. I burr bitted some sideways slots for it to get away from the gas tank. The ranger frame is a little tighter.

 

[gmanpaint]

Boomin, any issue with the exhaust doing that? The exhaust has always been on my mind moving the trans any direction as it was custom installed, after the engine swap.

I'm going to do a test, using a 2" x 3" tube spacer before spending on a poly mount. I have a new stock mount to use for this.

I will watch the exhaust, engine fan, and anything else that might want to bind as I Jack the trans up off the cross member. I might be **** out of luck and can't lift it at all.

 

[boominXplorer]

My exhaust was done after the engine install but I don't think you'd have an issue.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well heck.

Lifted the trans about 1/2" and it just hits the dang fuel line right at the 90* elbow. I just don't see how to move the line without replacing it with another line with a shorter elbow right there. It also gets the rear driveshaft U-joint closer to the fuel tank bracket. There isn't much room there as is, so the trans would have to be kicked to the passenger side no matter what.

I just replaced the trans mount with a new one. The one I did put in was more beef at least. I think the one used was one of those DEA( DOA) cheapo mounts. I put in an anchor brand mount, and it fit perfectly.

The used one sure looks like it has more than a few hundred miles on it, but it wasn't mangled or anything. I kept as a trail spare.

Comparison shots of the two mounts. You have to really look at them to tell the difference, but the rubber on the new one is way thicker, and has a bigger rubber keeper strap across it. Studs are different style as well. Have to look at the base of them to see it.

After a few spider bites, a couple hours messing around with it, a quick run around the block, and I put the rig to bed for the day.

 

[Turdle]

did the new mount help to gain any clearance in the trouble spot?

 

[410Fortune]

Like boomin said I also have moved the tail housing to the pass side slightly, this helps with gas tank to T case clearance, and it helps with the vibrations some get after a 5.0 conversion.....

the price and quality of the anchor mounts is impressive, no reason not to use new, at least until a custom/modded cross member can be fabricated

 

[gmanpaint]

The new mount lifted it maybe 1/8". Once I can get the clearance, I can then think of building a new cross member center section ( 95 has welded frame mounts).

The trans has gone thru it's learning stages, and is shifting harder now. With the gear driven t-case, there is no chain slack. I'm not sure if this helps, or hurts the trans mounts.

Moving the trans to the pass side is something I want to do still. Been looking at maybe cutting out the elbow section of the return line, and replacing it with a braided fuel line to get it out of the way. Was browsing Russell's website with @KurtECV , and all the parts just made my head hurt trying to figure out what I need. Still clueless LOL.

I noticed the lowest bolt under the Atlas was hitting the skid plate. I had to get longer bolts, and space it further from the frame rails. Dropping items is back ass wards!!

 

[KurtECV]

well at the fuel pump they are standard 3/8 and 5/15 quick connects.

I have an assortment of NPT and quick connect to -AN fittings in my shop. And then it would be that ford specific spring-lock connector at the fuel rail.

All depends on how you want to go about it.
replacing that section of line, or the entire thing.

 

[gmanpaint]

Whatever is easiest and works well!

 

[KurtECV]

Whatever is easiest and works well!

Need to trace the lines and see which one is which, we are pretty sure the one was the return.

Could always disconnect it, prime the pump and see if fuel is coming to/from the rails.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, it's the larger one of the two lines in the way, with the smaller line going to the filter.