The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Yup, every site I looked at, lists it as the 96-01 5.0L Power Steering Pressure Switch. It does indeed look just like other types of pressure switched used on these rigs. AC, Oil, etc...

In the Info given, is where they explain it's fluid regulation purpose. Some do mention the switch telling the ECM the PSI, so it can regulate it.

I'm just sharing what I found, so don't be shooting the messenger of discovery.

Still hunting down a better HP steering pump. No luck so far. Been dismal actually. Seems this model is very isolated to a few years, and only used on the 2nd gen Ex/Mt. Other Ford pumps are similar, but different just enough that they won't work in a stock application.

Our 5.0L use a Triangle shape Pulley attachment, and lower case bolts to Bracket mount. Also has the High Pressure Output port on the Dr side. The low pressure intake port is a down angle from the top pass side. These 3 things make our pumps slightly different then others in the Ford fleet.

This is the main issue I'm running into for stock to stock swap. Now, if the other square 4 point pulley pumps used in F-150's / Stangs, etc...mounts with the case lines up to this bracket, AND the HP line outlet is close to the stock position, one would imagine a pulley swap would be the solution here. I even looked into new brackets for different pumps, but the ones I found are for High end engine swaps (new tech into old cars), and hundreds & hundreds of bucks, just for the brackets alone. Most eliminate the AC too. Frustrating to say the least.

I think if I could find a unit that offers just a bit more fluid pressure, it would help the steering on this rig. For those that have never had the rig leaning against a wall, with both tires against it, and trying to turn the tire into it, and this weak steering says NOPE, nah gah happin jackass. You wouldn't understand the want for more power. I do think the rack can handle more pressure as well. They are always rated for less than actual for that margin of safety/failure. It's not like I haven't pushed this rig to it's limits already...... lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know if I ever read of a Saginaw PS pump being used in these, but maybe someone did and has a thread. Even look for one swapped for a 4.0 SOHC, those are so close that if someone did fit a Saginaw pump into that bracket, it could be done for the 302 part also. Those old type PS pumps are the old best standard, and they made more than one version. I'd be looking hardest at those, they make more pressure and have adjustability too.

 

[gmanpaint]

I'm familiar with the older Sag's. I wish I could use one, as they are much better. I even looked at PSC pumps, and those might be the best retro fit I think.

All of the Sag's, have the reservoir attached to the pump as one unit. The 5.0 pump is an individual unit. The bracket would be the key to align the pulley, both lines, and fit it in there where the resi neck wouldn't hit the hood. 5.0 setup is higher than the 4.0 I believe.

 

[KurtECV]

In my opinion, you need to find the source of the blockage/fluid flow/binding problem.

there are lots of big meat off road explorer 5.0 swaps out there and im sure they all dont have this problem and if they did then im sure there would be tons of posts on it.

There is a root cause of it, and we need to find it systematically. A larger pump isnt going to fix a broken system (and very well may make it worse!). BUT it would definitely be a good upgrade once the system is operating properly.

 

[KurtECV]

PUMP FLOW AND PRESSURE
WARNING: DO NOT TOUCH THE FLOWMETER DURING THE TEST PROCEDURE, OR SEVERE BURNS AND SERIOUS INJURY MAY OCCUR.

1. Install the Power Steering Analyzer at the high pressure port of the power steering pump. Make sure the power steering analyzer gate valve is fully open.
- On some vehicles, the power steering pump high pressure port is inaccessible and the power steering analyzer should then be installed either at the steering gear or at a point in the high pressure line between the power steering pump and the steering gear.

CAUTION: Make sure that the connection point will not interfere with any of the engine accessory drive components or drive belts.

2. Place a dial thermometer in the power steering pump reservoir.
3. Check the power steering fluid level. If necessary, add power steering fluid.
- Use Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON equivalent.

4. Install a digital tachometer.
5. Start the engine. Place the transmission in neutral. Set the parking brake. Raise the power steering fluid temperature to 74-80° C (165-175° F) by rotating the steering wheel fully to the left and right several times.

CAUTION: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than three to five seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump will occur.

6. Set the engine speed to 1500 rpm. Record the flow rate and pressure readings.
- If the flow rate is below the flow rate specification, the power steering pump may require repair. Continue with the test procedure.
- If the pressure reading is above the maximum pressure specification, then check power steering hoses for kinks and restrictions.

7. Partially close the gate valve to obtain 750 psi. Set the engine speed at idle. Record the flow rate.
- If the flow is less than the specified flow rate, then replace the power steering pump.

8. Completely close and partially open the gate valve 3 times. Record the pressure relief valve actuation pressure reading.
- If the pressure does not meet the relief pressure specification, then replace the power steering pump.

CAUTION: Do not allow the gate valve to remain closed for more than 5 seconds.

9. Set engine speed to 1500 rpm. Record the flow rate.
- If the flow rate varies more than 3.785 liters/minute (1 gallon/minute) from the initial flow rate reading, then replace the power steering pump.

10. Set the engine speed at idle. Turn (or have an assistant turn) the steering wheel to the left and right stops. Record flow rate and pressure readings at the stops.
- The pressure reading at both stops should be nearly the same as the maximum pump relief pressure.
- The flow rate should drop below 1.9 liters/minute (0.5 gallons/minute).
- If the pressure does not reach the maximum pump relief pressure or the flow rate does not drop below the specified value, excessive internal leakage is occurring. Repair or replace the steering gear as necessary.

CAUTION: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than three to five seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump will occur.

11. Turn (or have an assistant turn) the steering wheel slightly in both directions and release quickly while watching the pressure gauge.
- The pressure reading should move from the normal back pressure reading and snap back as the steering wheel is released.
- If the pressure returns slowly or sticks, the rotary valve in the steering gear is sticking or the steering column is binding. Check the steering column and linkages before servicing the steering gear.

We can get the pressure gauge.

 

[gmanpaint]

Agreed on the system working right. But I have been dealing with the weak setup in this rig for a decade when nothing was wrong with it. It's just a weak rack and pinion setup from the get go.

 

[KurtECV]

TIE ROD ARTICULATION TORQUE
1. Disconnect the tie rod end from the front wheel spindle.

NOTE: This check may be done with the steering gear on or off the vehicle.

2. Move the front wheel spindle tie rod back and forth three times.
3. Hook Spring Scale over the tie rod end or the threaded portion of the front wheel spindle tie rod and measure the force required to move the front wheel spindle tie rod.
4. If the force required to move the front wheel spindle tie rod does not meet the specifications, 7.25 Kg (16 lbs.), replace the front wheel spindle tie rod.

 

[gmanpaint]

Good info to share. Thanks Kurt.

I will check the tie rod torque specs. I have a feeling I over tightened them, after looking them up. Specs are 44-59 Ft#.

When I tested this new rack (#4 in 12 years), I did it with the inner's & outer's together, but the outer's off the spindles, to keep the alignment. Zipped them castle nuts back on with the electric impact. I think from free spin to one split second ugga dugga is right at 100 lbs. Whoops.

I didn't test the column during the rack install either. I locked it in place when removing the intermediate shaft. I can test it by removing the intermediate shaft at the column itself.

 

[KurtECV]

Yeah and thinking back on all the work that has been done by those that should not be named, there may be a problem in the column.

I know with the tires off the ground the system operates as intended, i wonder if maybe the steering shaft ujoints are binding. and you did mention the popping noise (or whatever) while on black bear pass then the steering effort changed.

I wonder if (with the tires off the ground) a pivot point has no restriction so it will articulate without binding.

 

[410Fortune]

I agree
HAS TO BE SOMETHING PHYSICALLY BINDING
Intermediate shaft is a good place to start.......I know I have had to revisit the one in my 88 BII a couple of times now........rubber rag joint in a 88 BII

 

[KurtECV]

And i dont remember if it was pugly AND BH that he did the ujoint conversion on or if it was just pugly...

 

[gmanpaint]

Have to keep in mind that the hard steering issue happened directly after the rack was swapped, while on vacation. Everything worked fine before that swap. Every part in the hydro steering system (besides the TRE's) has been replaced with new parts. The pump might not be the best, but it's new.

I am ruling out the steering column as an issue. There was absolutely no problem with it before the recent work. I will still check it for due diligence tho.

The 2nd gen intermediate shaft is different than a 1st gens. It has a single lower ball & socket joint, no rag joints, or U-joints. I did check that joint when the latest rack was replaced. It's fine as well. This shaft was swapped out for the beefier metal version in the past.

If anything is binding it's the TRE's. The Camburg inner's have a heim joint. These can bind if not lined up right. The outer's can bind if too tight. This is what I am going to concentrate on first.

I have a brand new set of stock Motocraft inner's. I will buy a new set of outer's, and swap out whats on now for a test. If that test results in a change for the better, than I know what's up. If not, that cheap aftermarket pump is back on the suspect list.

 

[gmanpaint]

Had to let all that Turkey food settle over the last few days. Hope all of you had a great Thanksgiving with your loved ones. The Sun was shining, very little cloud cover, and in the 40's this afternoon, so I went at the first steering test. The outer TRE's.

The outer's was way to tight as suspected, (I'm a big dummy). I had to beat the Dr side up and out of the knuckle with a BFH. Only smashed one finger tip in the process. Good times. Messed up the castle nut doing so, (Better than the stud). Once loose, I removed the cracked boot, and replaced it with a good one I scavenged off a stock sealed TRE, I had in the spare parts bin. With a new castle nut on, it was set to 55#'s. Then the Pass side was re-done.

With the rig back on it's feet, a test of lock to lock was done. I could feel the improvement right off the bat. A test drive around the block, and it most definitely responds easier, and it returns to center better. Still doesn't return 100%, but better than before.

I need to find something to get a tire up against, and in 4wd, to test it further. If I hear the pump pulsating right away, I know it needs attention still.

Weather is going to hit this area hard in a couple of days with lows in the teens, and highs below freezing, then snow. I charged the battery, and will let this weather pass before I do anything more with it. It's still early in the season, and I know we will warm back up again before the crud is here till spring.

Still no word from the possible Ford tech, that can install the cam and other stuffs at his dealership. I have yet to even speak the guy after all these months, and it's not from the lack of trying. Will have to start looking elsewhere shortly, if this is going to happen before our Moab Meet, with the forum. Always something!

 

[gmanpaint]

Santa's elves are getting busy with the keyboard.

 

[KurtECV]

Is that a Truss for the 8.8

 

[gmanpaint]

Is that a Truss for the 8.8

No. It's just a CAD Render....... For now.

 

[410Fortune]

I know that screen all too well, unfortunately for me it always has elevators on it, not new truss parts!!

 

[gmanpaint]

No new work to update this thread with. There are a few things hanging, that have been talked about these last few pages tho. So a little info update is all I can give. Not that anybody needs one, but I can reflect back on this later. (CRS)

Well, as per the normal with this rig, nothing goes as planned. Any plans to work on this thing, most likely won't happen until the spring thaws. I'm just hurting to much physically these days, everything is a struggle, and I can't work outside in the freezing weather like I used to. Having RA is no joke. After 9 surgeries, a hard blue collar life, Hypoglycemia, and getting old, the old body is worn out, and my chosen hobbies are not getting any easier to do. Getting old is not for the weak, but we still have to be realistic on what we can do, and can't do. It's hard for me to admit it, but it is what it is.

The brake lines will be the #1 item to get done, then more rear axle work, before the first wheeling trip of the season in May 2021. Anything else will most likely be done next summer.

I have also decided to head the advice given about the brake line choice. I will be going with the mild corrosion treated steel. Stainless sounded good, but after hearing others experiences with it, I'm not using it. I'm glad I held off buying the materials, until I knew for sure when the job was getting done. Since it couldn't get done before the hard freeze hit, it's on the back burner.

I will update with anything new, but the updates might be few & far apart right now.

Happy Holidays EF!

 

[CDW6212R]

Take care of yourself and be ready for the next time you feel up to working on it, weather allowing of course.

I'm going to start on my Lincoln later this Winter, and the ABS with hydro-boost will be part of first steps. I'll likely use the Nicopp line to make those under the hood. That stuff is easy to work with, and DOT approved. We'll see how the lines end up, the bends meant to be in them, and what looks bent wrong or done by that Russian "expert backyard mechanic" that posts online, and here a few times.

 

[donalds]

Nicopp line

Good stuff bends easy and if you mess up it is easy to bend back