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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I think you would be ok on the turbo with it hitting cold water. Ive read a few discussions on this.
Probably, my concern would be how deep that return oil pump ends up in water. They are supposed to be sealed really well, but if the electrical gets submerged I don't know what would be the result.
Didn't James Henson have a remote turbo setup on his Sport? I wonder where his air filter was.
You're making terrific progress and I can't wait for the initial success story!
James actually did a U mandrel bend and tucked his filter right up under the bumper. Then he ran a shield down the front of the filter. He said he had no issues. Tim's concern is the snow in our winters, this doesn't really apply in Alabama.
I think the filter cover is slick enough that snow hopefully will not stick to it. I will still have to move and/or protect it though.
Edit: Tim, your so helpful. Just don't tell my wife what some of this stuff costs.
my argument is (not really a argument, but a concern for dons motor and turbo), and don has heard it, so lets see what others may say is this. for you that live in the snow belt, if you have ever looked inside your rear bumper after driving in either sloppy wet, or fluffy snow, the bumper is packed. now if he tucks it into there, it may either suffocate the motor, or drench the filter. same with where it is now. it wont get packed with snow, but will be a target for any mist at the back of the truck. i know i am trying to think of a shield that can be made to cover it, but still be able to breath, and be accessible. making a box might choke it.
When in the Air Force I spent four winters in Grand Forks, ND. It didn't snow that much there but it was so cold the snow they got stayed all winter. The wind would blow it around and pack it in corners that disrupted airflow. I would drive 15 miles from home to the base to spend a week on alert every third week. I could always get my Wagoneer to start because after parking it I'd take the time to open the hood and stuff an old blanket around the air intake to prevent snow from collecting and being sucked in when cranking the engine.
I think the air filter shroud should be larger than the filter to allow airflow to all sides of the filter but only open at the rear. The bottom of the shield should be angled slightly downward to allow moisture to drain. It should extend rearward enough to keep snow and rain from getting sucked in.
Most air filter boxes I have seen have some kind of drain holes at the bottom to drain off any water that may have gotten in there so I would follow that practice. I am sure whatever you come up with, we will all be interested in seeing the pictures!!!
ok, so I haven't heard from James at Henson Performance, which is extremely unusual.
I gave him a quick call to make sure everything is ok, and to make sure he did receive my email.
He was extremely apologetic and let me know he is almost finished moving his shop, and is behind on his emails right now.
What a great guy. We had a great chat, and I'm glad I called so we could chat. Its always great to talk to genuinely nice people.
So, on my selfish side, James is sure he can get back his emails and my tuning tomorrow.
I was thinking about something like that, but maybe cutting a few holes in the top also and then using stand-offs and more material to create a 'baffle' of sorts.
I'm not sure how well that work if the suction just sucks the snow in to the box and fills it up though. There's going to be trial and error here for sure, I just hope I don't get myself stranded.
Here is a pic of what James did on his rear mount. Note the protective piece he brought down in front of the filter.
[MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION], funny you mention grand forks. don and i both live around 2-2 1/2 hours from there.
don, i had a idea that i am going to throw out on here. what if we moved your charcoal canister to the passengers side and put the filter up high there. but instead of facing it towards the tire, face it towards the bumper? i dont think that where it faces matters because it has plenty of room to breath where it sits, and there isnt a "ram air" affect for it right now. we then make a cone shape box for it some how that will either have a slight angle up or down for drainage.
just throwing it out there.
I would also look at a Husqvarna chain saw to see if its air cleaner design could be used at all. I know that they are made to use centrifugal force to keep saw dust from being sucked into the air filter(even when poured all over the air cleaner inlet). I wonder if any of that can be used to keep water out, and snow too.
I'll have to look at the possibility of moving that charcoal canister. That's a great idea.
It's been a long time since I have done rear shocks, so I can't really remember exactly how big that cavity is, or how many hoses, or how hard it would be to re locate.
Definitely worth looking in to though.
I'll have to look at the possibility of moving that charcoal canister. That's a great idea.
It's been a long time since I have done rear shocks, so I can't really remember exactly how big that cavity is, or how many hoses, or how hard it would be to re locate.
Definitely worth looking in to though.
The ARC air compressor goes up there on those models. It's large enough to create a sizable air inlet cavity if you try to. I'd leave the air filter right where it is, and build an air cleaner box around it, with a large inlet pipe going up into the area above the spare(going around the front or back of the cross member there), and position the initial inlet and drain holes up there. The larger the surface area of the actual inlet holes are, the slower air travels through them, and less water too.
Maybe a large 2' x 2' air box up there with most openings at the back, and the exiting hole at the front up high, with a few drain holes around the bottom surface, then only minor water mist could make it to the air filter.
You want the air going in and through the air inlet to be relatively slow, to cause water to drop out of it and drain away.
Trouble in paradise.
The slot maf is reading really turbulent air. My positioning of it is too close to the bend up the wheel well. $#%&$%$%!!!!!
I tried flipping the tube, but the slot maf has a direction of flow, and it is keyed so it can only go on the flange one way. so, I cut the flange off and the pipe and flange is at the welder.
Also, everytime I'd re-start my truck, the wideband would go back in to warmup. I had to move the power wire to the battery so James could get a/f readings during the short time the truck runs.
Lets hope I can get my junk fixed up so James has something to work with.
Here I thought I did such a great of my install.
I'll get the slot maf re-installed and a log off to James. I don't expect to be able to pick this up till next week after I get back from Regina.
I'm deep enough in to this that there's no question about making it work. With James experience, I'm sure he will be able to tell me what he see's from the logs and we can sort out any errors in my build from there.
