4.0 + NP435 X BW1350 X BW1354 X 3.73 = 153 to 1 crawl ratio

[RockRanger]

If you didnt figure it out from the title I am trying to keep the stock 4.0 then put an NP435 transmission behind it then to duel ranger tcases. This will give me a 6.69 first 2.48 gearing in each tcase then my axles right now are 3.73. With lower gears in the axles you can easily end up with a crawl ratio in the 200 to 1 range. Not only that I am shooting for the NP435 and crawler box to be the same length as the stock ranger transmission so that my driveshaft lengths will be the same length as stock and I wont have to move my gas tank.

While I will be losing overdrive I will be picking up a super low first gear. My ranger is a second vechicle so highway manners are not as important to me. There will be a bit of a gap when shifting from second to third with the new tranny in. Hopefully it will be OK.

I am still kind of early into this project and havent figured out all the details on how to make it work. I also dont have access to a full machine shop. Pretty much my hightech tools include a $200 harbor freight drill press ( a real POS) a 4.5" grider and some drill bits. Hopefully I can get it all worked out. Anyway on with some pictures

Here you can see the size difference between the np435 and the stock mazda 5 speed from my ranger. Should make a tight fit in the tranny tunnel for sure. Did I mention I am trying to do this without a body lift

 

[RockRanger]

here is a side photo of the np435. Notice how much shorter (but taller) it is then the stock mazda tranny. Currently the transmission has a dana 20 adapter on the back of that will be removed and replaced.

 

[RockRanger]

here you can see the difference in size between the stock ranger clutch and the clutch from the Np435. Hopefully that will help eliminate some of the burnt clutches

 

[RockRanger]

here are a few pictures of the start of my BW1350 Crawler box. It is hard cutting 5" hole in the middle of a picr of steel with a 4.5" grinder and a cut off wheel.

 

[RockRanger]

here is the beginning of the adapter to mount the tranny to the motor. I can cut wood much faster and it gives me the ability to see what potential clearnce issues I will have. I already know that I am probably going to have to use one of those small super starter deals that can be clocked to make it fit where i need it to. The clutch fork sticking out the side is going to make the drivers side exhaust a bit fun. With out a body lift the passangerside exhaust will be real fun anyway. Does anyone know if there is an interal hydrolic slave cylender available for the np435? I have already had to smash a bit of that body seam that runs over the top of the tranny cross member to get bellhousing to fit.

 

[410Fortune]

Wow you need some help! hahahaha
This is interesting Matt, cannot wait to see what you come up with for a flywheel and adapter for the new trans.
I knew you were doing something wild

Nice! dual cases MUAHAHA

 

[Premier]

Wow..

 

[RockRanger]

Ive been playing around with cad program I downloaded off of emachineshop.com I am starting to get the hang of how it works. Only problem is it seems like it will only work for them and I couldnt get price quotes from other shops. I have in the past tried a few of the free download ones and could never figure them out. Does anyone know of an easy to learn cad program. It would be best if it was free. I think instead of trying to cut everything out at home I may try to draw it up and have a shop cut it out. Hopefully they wont be outragouly expensive.

By making that wooden template I am about 95% sure that I can make everything fit. The NP435 has to be clocked a bit to the passangerside so that it will clear the driverside head. I plan on making everything else stay inline with the clocked NP435. By doing this it will rotate the stock tcase up and allow me to use a flat skid plate and gain a few extra inches of grond clearance. I also plan on building a trans crosmember that fits up in the frame as well so I wont have that hanging below the frame. The only thing underneath that may cause problems is the gas tank. Ill let all the other doubler guys figure that out so I can just copy them .

 

[RockRanger]

Wow you need some help! hahahaha
This is interesting Matt, cannot wait to see what you come up with for a flywheel and adapter for the new trans.
I knew you were doing something wild

Nice! dual cases MUAHAHA

I am planning on using the stock 5.0 flywheel. That way I get the much bigger clutch To make it adapt I figure i can use a spacer/adapter much like people use to change lug patterns on an axle. Both flywheels are six bolts just the 5.0 one is spaced much farther out.

 

[bmxking5]

Wow Subscribing

 

[Josh S.]

 

[BKennedy]

I really don't understand any of this................but I would love to see it work for you Matt

 

[Brian_B]

Rockranger: I posted in your CAD thread. Let me know if I can help somehow.

Later,
Brian_B

 

[Stic-o]

It's like I'm watch a square peg going into a round hole!

If you wern't so far away I'd offer to help

 

[410Fortune]

Matt, I have full blown CAD right here, I have been a CAD operator for over 10 years, so if you need anything drawn up let me know.
I recently purchased AutoCAD 2004 for $400 online, thats $3100 less then the 2005 version, let me know if you need CAD help.

I am curious to see how you make the flywheel and clutch work on this conversion, the flywheel you are suing is larger then the back of the 4.0L engine.....should be interesting! Can you say *******ized drivetrain?

Also have you considered using an engine that would bolt up to this trans?

If you cut that hole with a grinder wheel you are welcome to work on my truck anytime! Top notch back yard fab right there baby.....

 

[Jefe]

You're crazy man. . .

 

[RockRanger]

Matt, I have full blown CAD right here, I have been a CAD operator for over 10 years, so if you need anything drawn up let me know.
I recently purchased AutoCAD 2004 for $400 online, thats $3100 less then the 2005 version, let me know if you need CAD help.

Ill let you know when the time comes Im still trying to get some details firgured out before I drop a bunch of money into this. I can get most of my money back out right now if it doesnt work out. Before I start spending a bunch I want to get as many details figured out as I can.

I am curious to see how you make the flywheel and clutch work on this conversion, the flywheel you are suing is larger then the back of the 4.0L engine.....should be interesting! Can you say *******ized drivetrain?

Just think of the wheelspaers people use to convert from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5 Ill post some pics in a sec that should hopefully help you see what I am talking about. Yeah the drivetrain will be a little *******ized but not to complicated.

Also have you considered using an engine that would bolt up to this trans?

Wheres the fun in that? So far I really like my 4.0 If I can get it to work then maybe Ill do a 5.0 conversion. I hear you might have a line on an extra 5.0

If you cut that hole with a grinder wheel you are welcome to work on my truck anytime! Top notch back yard fab right there baby.....

Took alot of time to cut it. It is a 1/2" plate. I cut about 3/16 of the way through on each side with the grinder then used a jig saw to cut the rest. Not clean but got the job done.

 

[RockRanger]

To make the 5.0 flywheel bolt to the 4.0 crank, I plan on making a piece similar to the way people change lug patterns. In the next two pics you can see how the bolt pattern on the 5.0 is much bigger then what it is on the 4.0

 

[Brian_B]

My big concern would be driveline vibration. How are you going to keep it all balanced with it spinning at 5000+ RPM?

 

[RockRanger]

From what I can find is the 5.0 crank sticks about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch past the bellhousing mounting service (if someone knows for sure please let me know). On the 4.0 the crank is reciesed into the back of the block about a quarter of inch (going off memeory on how far) I plan on making a 1/2 plate adapter similar to the one above made of wood. Take that 1/2 inch plus the 1/4inch from 4.0 surface then the 5.0 surface difference of say 1/8 inch, then I need a spacer 7/8 of an inch thick that has both the 4.0 holes drilled in it and the 5.0 holes drilled in it. The 4.0 ones need to be countersunk into the plate so the flywheel can go over the top of the bolts. Instead of using the stock bolts I am going to try to find some with a smaller head. Then the adpater piece will be threaded to bolt the flywheel right to it. It will also need to have a bearing or bushing in it for the input shaft from the transmission mounted in it. I still need to get one so I can get some measurements and make sure it all will fit.